edspurrier
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posted on 29/6/08 at 09:20 AM |
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Bolt Removal......
Fitting cycle wings is diffisult when there's a headless bolt stuck in the hub. I've not managed to get it out by cutting a slot in it
and trying to turn it with a screwdrive in a mole grip and a big lever - does anybody have any better ideas, or know a mobile stud remover near
Stamford, before I take the front suspension apart?
THanks
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ruskino80
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posted on 29/6/08 at 09:24 AM |
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can you weld an old socket onto it?
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NS Dev
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posted on 29/6/08 at 09:26 AM |
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If its rusted in then it could be tricky, BUT, try the usual old trick of a dot/centre punch, applied slightly "inwards" at a tangent to
the undoing direction, so as to tap it undone at the same time as digging in a bit, but inwards so it doesn't swage it into the surrounding
upright too much.
Always works if the sheared bit is loose, but in an upright it probably sheared due to rust, in which case drill out and retap is the only real
answer.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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donut
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posted on 29/6/08 at 09:35 AM |
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WD-40 sprayed on over a few days should ease it up a bit.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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rusty nuts
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posted on 29/6/08 at 10:17 AM |
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Weld a nut on to the remains of the bolt, weld through the nut . The heat from welding and being able to apply torque should shift it. If the weld
breaks then weld on another. . Have used this method loads with good results .Welding a socket on is a waste IMHO. If welding fails then drill and
tap
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blakep82
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posted on 29/6/08 at 10:36 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by rusty nuts
Weld a nut on to the remains of the bolt, weld through the nut . The heat from welding and being able to apply torque should shift it. If the weld
breaks then weld on another. . Have used this method loads with good results .Welding a socket on is a waste IMHO. If welding fails then drill and
tap
ooh, i'd never thought of this way. i'd go with this one!
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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hillbillyracer
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posted on 29/6/08 at 11:41 AM |
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I've been using the weld a nut on method for years, you have to resourceful as an agric engineer
I've found that sometimes it's easier to weld a washer on first, mabye a touch smaller diameter than the stud you're taking out
& then welding a nut to the top of that. This makes it easier to avoid welding the stud to the surrounding metalwork while getting a good weld.
I've drilled a hole right through the centre of the stud if it's something big so the weld can get down inside & help to shrink it
while getting more hold.
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rusty nuts
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posted on 29/6/08 at 11:59 AM |
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quote:
I've found that sometimes it's easier to weld a washer on first, mabye a touch smaller diameter than the stud you're taking out
& then welding a nut to the top of that. This makes it easier to avoid welding the stud to the surrounding metalwork while getting a good weld.
Good idea!
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hillbillyracer
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posted on 29/6/08 at 01:44 PM |
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I learned the hard way! If you weld the stud to the upright you may need a new one which is a bugger but not beyond doing by any means. If you weld it
to the gearbox which also acts as the chassis on a tractor then it's a bit more serious!
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