whitestu
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 02:59 PM |
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Engine Swap
On my last engne swap, I took the engine and box out.
I'm assumed this was easier than splitting the engine and box in the car, if that is even possible.
Has anyone taken just the engine out of a Seven?
Thanks
Stu
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wilkingj
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 03:05 PM |
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Shouldnt be as hard as taking the lot out in one lump.
Its less weight, and easier to move about.
Especially of you have a crane or a gantry and pulley block.
Just take your time.
Errr... Its not a BEC is it???? 
[Edited on 2/10/2008 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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whitestu
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 03:09 PM |
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I'll just lift the engine clear and push the car back, with the gearbox supported if it's still in obviously.
I was mainly wondering if there was space to seperate the two in the car.
Stu
[Edited on 2/10/08 by whitestu]
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 03:14 PM |
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i imagine the bellhousing is still acessible in the engine bay of a 7. should be easy enough. a few bolts round the back of the block, undo the engine
mounts, and you'd need about 2" to move the engine forwards to release the gearbox input shaft... should be ok
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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whitestu
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 03:29 PM |
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Thanks - that should make life easier then.
Stu
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piddy
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 03:55 PM |
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I've done it three times with my previous 7
However it was a Robin Hood so a bit more room. The bit I found to be a bit of a pain was lining up the gearbox shaft,into the clutch etc.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 06:27 PM |
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If you have one put a trolley jack under the gearbox when refitting the engine. Make sure the clutch is aligned correctly if you have replace or taken
it off. Lower the engine until it visually lines up with the bell housing and gradually introduce the 1st motion shaft into the clutch . May be worth
putting into top gear and turning the crank pulley as you push and wriggle the engine towards the transmission . DO NOT use the bell housing bolts
to pull the engine onto the gearbox.
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whitestu
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 07:03 PM |
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Thanks
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jacko
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 07:16 PM |
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I have removed my pinto engine 3 or 4 times i put a piece of wood 3x2 across the chassis above the bell housing then put a rope under the gearbox and
tied it to the wood ,
I then just removed the engine
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paulf
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 08:26 PM |
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Ive done mine a few times recently and use the same method.It also helps to have some long studs to fit to the gearbox to guide the engine in line.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have removed my pinto engine 3 or 4 times i put a piece of wood 3x2 across the chassis above the bell housing then put a rope under the gearbox and
tied it to the wood ,
I then just removed the engine
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mediabloke
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| posted on 2/10/08 at 11:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
a piece of wood 3x2 across the chassis above the bell housing then put a rope under the gearbox and tied it to the wood ,
I then just removed the engine
Remarkably similar - with the xe block, I propped the bell housing & hoisted the block, then used a length of 3x2, 2 pairs of shoulders, some
straps and a trolley jack to put it back in again. Mind - I removed the head first, so it was just the block. Don't forget the obligatory
swearing though, when you try to get the clutch back onto the gearbox splines. Extra points if you manage to do it before you repeat yourself...
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 3/10/08 at 07:16 AM |
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As above this time I took the head off the engine as there was only two of us to put it back in. Usually there's three, two to lift and one to
guide. Gearbox already in sat on a trolley jack. lift the block in using straps, line up the block and box then spend the next 10-20 mins wiggling
till it finally slips on the splines!
So this time I had the bolts reversed sticking out from the engine block which helped to guide the block squarely into the bell housing (no threads on
the bell housing just holes). All that was needed was a wiggle on the prop shaft to engage the splines! Only takes a small angle deviation to between
the block and gearbox the make it resist.
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