02GF74
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 12:31 PM |
|
|
extending steering column or any other steel rod
Has anyone extended a steel rod, say 15 mm diameter, for edample to lengthen a steering column?
Technique I believe is to put cone on the ends, butt them up thus: ==><== and weld up filling in the missing cone.
but how do you ensure that both parts are in line?
clamp up to inside corner of ange iron, tack weld then roll the rod?
Will further welding introduce a kink?
Or tack weld both parts to the angle iron?
How would the cone be built up?
|
|
|
|
|
flak monkey
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 12:37 PM |
|
|
The correct way to do it is sleeve and weld.
So cut shaft. Select a piece of tube the correct ID and slide over joint. Then weld around the ends and plug weld for double security if its for
something like a driveshaft/sterring column.
To lengthen, a similar principal applies, and it could just be lengthened with a piece of heavish gauge tube (say 3mm wall) or a bar of the same OD as
the original then sleeve the joint at each end of the extension as above.
[Edited on 10/12/09 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 12:39 PM |
|
|
for the coupling that would casu no issues but for inner column you will never be able to take the inner column out if the lower bearing needed
replacing?
|
|
|
splitrivet
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 12:54 PM |
|
|
Through drilling and a roll pin as well as welding would be advised.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
|
|
|
Jimbob
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 01:06 PM |
|
|
weld them in a lathe so both parts are held ensuring there is no movement, make sure its a full penetration weld.
Skim the weld down to the diameter of the bar as most cracks, if they do appear will originate at the heal of the weld.
If its a high stress component inspect the weld for defects using dye penetrant for instance.
You could also shot blast/peen the area too to relieve stresses.
|
|
|
tegwin
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 01:19 PM |
|
|
I had that issue on my steering column...
I simply made a nylon split bush rather than a bearing so that I can undo the bush and lift the shaft out, rather than trying to work out how to slide
the sleeved parts through the bearing...
And SVA man did not like seeing butt welding on the steering shaft..
He was MUCH happier with a sleeved joint!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
|
|
|
JAG
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 02:04 PM |
|
|
quote:
If its a high stress component.....
I would NOT recommend welding it!
Ask Ayrton Senna about highly stressed steering column welds 
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 02:18 PM |
|
|
Why not just replace the entire section with a single piece or tube or bar the required length? i.e. cut off the joints at each end and reuse on the
new tube/bar.
That's what MK and others do with theirs.
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 02:47 PM |
|
|
When I extended mine I cut the splines and triangle bit off that fits both ways, put into a lathe and turned down so they would be a snug fit into
3/4" 16swg tube of the new length required.
Fish mouthed the tube ends, gives a longer weld and then plug welded a little further back, belt and braces.
I would not try and join something halfway along its length, tube is stronger in twisting than solid + lighter so start again.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 10/12/09 by mark chandler]
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 03:05 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Why not just replace the entire section with a single piece or tube or bar the required length? i.e. cut off the joints at each end and reuse on the
new tube/bar.
That's what MK and others do with theirs.
so how do you get the inner column out if you need to replace the bering?
[img]do you know diameter of splined end that fits into the coupling, and number of splines?
I hear what y'all are saying but why is it ok for the couplingto be welded by BL (allkegro) and Fiat?
 ?
|
|
|
Danozeman
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 04:43 PM |
|
|
My colum is sleeved welded and plug welded. Luego just sleeve and weld that.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 10/12/09 at 10:52 PM |
|
|
Why do you want to extend the column, just extend the extensions that are attached to it, thats what I did. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 07:08 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Why do you want to extend the column, just extend the extensions that are attached to it, thats what I did.
here is why
been thinking a bit more - it may be the the column pulls out from the end opposite to the steering wheel in whcih case having larger diameter at
other end won't hinder any bush replacement..... or else fit new bush and sleeve - can't imagin I'll do astronomical miles before it
wear out ....
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:42 AM |
|
|
Exactly like mine, except my problem was the exhaust manifold. I just put a third UJ in and a supporting bearing. I felt that cutting and welding the
column was a definate No! No!. Cheers Ray
ETA picture.
 
Keeps it out of the exhaust
[Edited on 11-12-09 by Chippy]
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:46 AM |
|
|
^^^ but unless I can get a UJ with spline ine end to fit between column and the allegro steering coupling, somewhere in the steeering linkage is gonna
be some welding.
anyway, my alloy radiator is sitting next to be in a box so will tonight what kind of changes are required.
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:50 AM |
|
|
Ageed, but the welding should only be to extend the links, which would be with sections of tube. You can get UJ's and legths of rod with the
splines on from Car Builders Solutions, although picked mine up from the scrappies. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 10:54 AM |
|
|
ok, I must be missing something here.
what difference does it make if the welding, with sleeve, is done on the steering column, as per MK and Leugo or on the links?
putting in extra link is more effort since it needs a steady and more linkages (slines) and UJ introduce more slop.
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 11:06 AM |
|
|
Sleeve and weld it with a tight fit and good weld it is no problem, or look at some way of moving the radiator.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 09:26 PM |
|
|
back to this.
column is 18 mm and only tube I found so far is 7/8 x 14 SWG
22.2mm x 2.03mm
will that be strong enough?
hmmm....
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 11/12/09 at 11:08 PM |
|
|
In a word, Yes!. Make sure you angle, or fish mouth the ends so you get max welding area, and if you want to be ultra careful, drill after welding and
plug weld. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
