Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 05:29 AM |
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How to drill / ream out a 3/4" hole?
Slightly off topic this but I sense people on this site will know how to help me.
I am rebuilding a 1954 Austin Healey 100. In fact it is a lot like the last two kit cars I've built as I have a new chassis which has been made
to the original dimensions and a load of panels that I am welding to it to create the inner bodywork of the car. In effect it'll be a new car,
just like a kit. The biggest difference is that it is a lonely world; there is not a forum like this with hundreds of people all similar jobs, hence
my problem.
The previous own of the car/kit had the chassis galvanised to prevent it rusting. However, they didn't fill the holes that shouldn't have
been filled with zinc prior to the process. The pedals mount on to a bar which pivots, when the brake is pressed, in two tubes welded into the
chassis. Now the metal on the inside of these tubes is steel so the contact is smoothed by grease which is pumped into the bar and out through some
small holes and groves cut into the bar. Hope that makes sense. Anyway, the bar is 0.741 of an inch in diameter (or there abouts) so I figure the
tubes need to be drilled / reamed to 3/4" to accept it. The question is how do I get a 'bit' that diameter to actually do it? I
should say that the tubes are about 8cm long, I only have regular hand tools such as a drill with a 13mm chuck and that the job has to be done on the
car as the tubes are already fixed in the chassis. Also, in true locost fashion I am not the bank of England so I could do with a low cost
solution.
Thanks
Steve
LocostBuilders » Photos » Steve Lovelock » AH holes.JPG
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s6otty
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 06:24 AM |
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If I understand correctly, get a machinist to bore them/ream them on a lathe for you. Or send em to me and I'll do it for ya!
Scott.
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t16turbotone
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 07:13 AM |
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I had a simlar problem once, what i did was to buy a flap wheel then i extended the flap wheel shaft and carefully reamed the bores till the bar
fits
ABRASIVE FLAP WHEEL 20x20mm 120 GRIT BOX OF 10 GARRYSON on eBay (end time 17-Nov-10 16:33:27 GMT) 3
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Mal
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 07:31 AM |
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Buy or borrow a 3/4" or 19mm diameter reamer. A hand one with a square drive to fit onto a tap wrench is best, but a machine one with a morse
taper will also do. Again turn it with a tap wrench attached to the tang on the end of the morse taper.
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SPYDER
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 09:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by s6otty
If I understand correctly, get a machinist to bore them/ream them on a lathe for you. Or send em to me and I'll do it for ya!
Scott.
Crikey!! How big must your lathe be??
Steve...looking at the pic I would suggest using a Spiraband type abrasive wheel if you can't source a suitable reamer as suggested.
You will need to go in each tube from both ends unless you can find some long shank ones, so you'll need a right angle drill arrangement or
maybe a flexible shaft thingumy.
I would help you out if I lived nearer.
Unless Scott's lathe is big enough to put a chassis on, of course!
Geoff.
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djtom
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 10:02 AM |
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I've probably got a 3/4 inch reamer going spare in my huge box of reamers - if I do you can have it for a fiver + p&p.
Let me know if you are interested and I'll have a dig through the garage tonight.
Tom
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s6otty
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 11:11 AM |
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Haha, hmm, it was early when I read it, I assumed the tubes were loose lol!
I probably have a reamer, if no-one else can find one.
Scott
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 12/11/10 at 01:13 PM |
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Thanks for the replies. I'd very happily pay a £5 plus P&P for one if that is possible.
Steve
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djtom
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| posted on 13/11/10 at 02:25 PM |
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Yep, I've found a spare one. See your U2U for payment details.
Cheers,
Tom
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