Hellfire
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:10 PM |
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Cutting Carbon Fibre Tube
I have a length of 2" carbon fibre tube which I need to cut into six lengths. I have very little spare for wasteage and therefore need to get
the cuts absolutely square, first time. I have a mitre saw for cutting wood but I fear the blade wouldn't be suitable for cutting CF and AFAIK
there is no substitute saw blade available for the mitre saw.
If I use a hacksaw to cut the CF, how can I ensure I get the cut square? I've thought about using a length of aluminium tube as a guide but
I'd need to find a tube with a slightly larger ID of the CF tube and I just don't have the time to source it......
Any suggestions? 
Phil
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b14wrc
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:20 PM |
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Hi there Hellfire,
When I used to work for Wally yachts in Italy, we always used to cut carbon tubes and components a bit oversize, and then very carefully grind back
with a die grinder.
If you don’t have much spare, i would suggest you careful mount the tube in a vice, but a band of masking tape around the tube and mark exactly where
you want to chop it, you can the cut it with a hack saw. Just take your time and don’t rush it. If you make it 1 mm oversize, you can then machine it
back perfect. That’s the way i would (have) done it.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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Autosri
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:23 PM |
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Might not be cost effective but electrical wholesalers sell a thing for doing armoured glands like a copper pipe cutter but has a hacksaw blade rather
than the roller
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Agriv8
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:25 PM |
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Phill is it 'Proper CF' or 'CF in clear fiber glass resin' ?
regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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Autosri
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:26 PM |
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http://www.test-meter.co.uk/products/electricians-tools/kewtechnik-swa-wire-stripper-blade-runner/
Like this mate
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blakep82
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 12:31 PM |
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jubilee hose clamp as a guide for hacksaw 
and maybe not cut all the way through, just cut deep enough to get through the top of the tube, rotate a bit, cut again, etc till you get all the way
round
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 01:17 PM |
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second the jubilee clip method, used this for indicator extensions and required very little filing/sanding to get an nice true end
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designer
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 01:34 PM |
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Half way down right hand column.
http://www.shedworks.eu/hints.html
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DIY Si
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| posted on 29/11/11 at 04:10 PM |
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I wrap a piece of plain A4 printing paper round tubes to get them square. If you line the edges up, you know that you'll get a dead straight cut
line that you can mark onto the tube and then cut away as usual with a hacksaw.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Hellfire
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| posted on 30/11/11 at 12:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Phill is it 'Proper CF' or 'CF in clear fiber glass resin' ?
regards
Agriv8
I'm not sure I'd know what the difference was. I'm certain that the material is 100% CF, however, I'm not sure what type of
resin has been used to bond it together.
Some good ideas above. I reckon I'll try both the jubilee clip and the A4 paper method and see which one I prefer. Cheers guys.......
Phil
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iank
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| posted on 30/11/11 at 12:41 PM |
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Just make sure you follow Syd Bridge's advice regarding dust here
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=90496
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 30/11/11 at 01:48 PM |
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A properly made carbon fibre layup uses epoxy or phenolic resin, NOT polyester or vinylester. The 'esters' are cheap, but are brittle,
and should only be used for cosmetic pieces.
The epoxies and phenolics are tough and resilient, and let the carbon do its job properly.
I'll add to the post that carbon mods made re Syd's post in that reference above.
The comments by Carbon mods are highly irresponsible, and show little regard for or understanding of the the nature of carbon, and epoxies. Carbon is
carcinogenic. No ifs buts or maybes. It produces a problem in the lungs worse than asbestosis. This is proven fact.
The hardeners in epoxies are some of the most carcinogenic substances known to man. When making dust, the unused hardeners in the cured layup are
nasty to anything they contact. I have SP systems/Gurit locally, and the list of people who leave that place with skin and lung problems is
endless.
Do what you wish, don't say you weren't warned/advised. The problems from these don't show up for many years, just like asbestosis.
I wonder how the carbon mods guys will be when they are twenty or thirty years older, if they are still breathing at that point?
As pointed out, cut with something with teeth, even very fine teeth, but teeth. If final sanding, have a vacuum extractor removing the dust directly
from the workpoint.
I can't stress those points above enough. I've worked with grp for 50 or so years, and carbon for 40 of those years. There are few health
and safety warnings about poly and glass. Carbon and epoxies have volumes of health and safety advisories.
Your choices.
Cheers,
Nev.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 12:10 PM |
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Just an update on this. I tried the mitre saw before resorting to the other methods and the mitre saw cut the CF tube surprisingly well with little
need for sanding.
Phil
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