Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 13/10/15 at 02:35 PM |
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Broken Stud Extractor Tool Recomendations
While taking the front exhaust pipe off my Alfa I have broken off two studs.
Can anyone recomend a stud exctractor tool/set for removing studs/threads where there is naff all sticking out to grab onto.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 13/10/15 at 02:44 PM |
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weld blobs onto the end of the stud until there is enough to put a nut over, then weld the nut on, and unscrew whilst its hot, the heat of the welding
does also loosen the alloy / steel corrosion.
[Edited on 13/10/15 by r1_pete]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/10/15 at 02:50 PM |
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Check the studs are screwed these days on a lot of manifolds studs are pressed in from the back in the same way as Ford Sierra wheel studs
[Edited on 13/10/15 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 13/10/15 at 03:11 PM |
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Its defo' screwed studs, I'm actually surprised that on a 20 year old Alfa Romeo that all 4 didnt snap off, 2 actually unscrewed.
Didnt think of the welding idea, will try that if I can get access.
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Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.
www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk
callan@t89.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/10/15 at 03:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
Didnt think of the welding idea, will try that if I can get access.
If the studs sheared off due to corrosion, then 'easyout' type stud extractors will almost certainly shear off as well, and make your life
even more difficult. Either use the weld trick, or drill out the remaining stud. You may well need something better than HSS to drill them out
though (e.g. cobalt drills) since exhaust fasteners can get extremely hard from the numerous temperature cycles.
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 14/10/15 at 07:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
weld blobs onto the end of the stud until there is enough to put a nut over, then weld the nut on, and unscrew whilst its hot, the heat of the welding
does also loosen the alloy / steel corrosion.
[Edited on 13/10/15 by r1_pete]
Nice idea, i will remember that.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/10/15 at 05:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ash_hammond
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
weld blobs onto the end of the stud until there is enough to put a nut over, then weld the nut on, and unscrew whilst its hot, the heat of the welding
does also loosen the alloy / steel corrosion.
[Edited on 13/10/15 by r1_pete]
Nice idea, i will remember that.
Works with brake pipe nuts, bleed nipples, wheel bolts , sump plugs and cylinder head bolts as well
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/10/15 at 07:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Works with brake pipe nuts, bleed nipples, wheel bolts , sump plugs and cylinder head bolts as well
A MIG welder is good for removing wheel bearings as well 
[Edited on 17/10/15 by MikeRJ]
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Staple balls
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| posted on 17/10/15 at 09:38 PM |
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Not massively useful (i'd go with the welding a nut on, absolutely the best way to do the job)
But, interesting as a solution to these issues.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pN-fnUeA3o[/youtube]
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indykid
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| posted on 17/10/15 at 10:10 PM |
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If you can't get at it with a welder, or it's a temperature sensitive component,
you won't find a better set of stud extractors than these
Not cheap, but bloody good. Drill the hole, knock in the splined shaft, slip the driver over the top and ease the stud out. It's rare that they
don't work, even for getting studs out of turbine housings.
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BenB
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| posted on 17/10/15 at 10:10 PM |
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First time I had to do something like this I used a stud extractor and it sheared and It was a right royal pain to then drill out.
Second time I used the nut and weld job. Worked first time. ...
Nuff said? 
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 10:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
First time I had to do something like this I used a stud extractor and it sheared and It was a right royal pain to then drill out.
Second time I used the nut and weld job. Worked first time. ...
Nuff said?
Stud extractors have their place: if you have a sheared fastener caused by fatigue or over-tighening then stud extractors can work very well. If you
have sheared a fastener because it's locked solid with corrosion, they don't.
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BenB
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 02:08 PM |
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Absolutely- it was my own fault being a savage and using the wrong tool. Stud extractors are good for not seized but snapped-off flush stuff. Although
I've yet to experience that- with me it's always seized solid stuff! The nut thing works wonders IMHO.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 02:35 PM |
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I'm not a great fan of any type of stud extractors , I have a set of the Ridgid splined extractors but as said if the stud is seized forget them
. For stud that don't appear to be seized left I have a set of cobolt left hand drill bits that work well but still tend to use the mig if I can
get to the remains easily. Right angled air drill helps to get into difficult places
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