JoelP
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 06:14 PM |
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Just bought an impact wrench!
hi all, i just bought an air impact wrench and a set of sockets today, what a cracking set of stuff! £50 from machine mart (cheaper on ebay i know,
but i needed it asap!).
however, i have a few questions! its not great at undoing stuff that is really rusted up, is this par for the course, a lack of air (it does loose
pressure fast) or a low quality wrench? its a standard clark thing.
im thinking of upgrading the compressor too, i know there are recent threads on compressors but am i better upgrading pressure, free air or volume?!
or all...
also, air wrenches (not the impact ones) are they essentially just worm drives? the fella in the shop described them as nut spinners. is there any
real use in having both an impact wrench and a regular spinner?!
any imput much appreciated, ive lost most of my other tools due to lack of use, but feel like stocking up again! 
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clbarclay
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 06:34 PM |
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Got a good compressor (resonable industrial, sertainaly not hobby) with 1/2" bore hose (as big as it gets) running a 1/2" drive air
gun.
In short tight rusty stuff is a no no. you will need to krack the nuts/bolts at the very least, will usually work well enough then.
Main use of air gun is to get nuts of long threads.
[Edited on 1/3/05 by clbarclay]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 06:42 PM |
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I only recently started using an air ratchet (30 pounds with a few sockets from B&Q) and it is really good time saver for some jobs, It delivers
about 25 foot pounds max\torque which is fine for small bolts but 10mm require an additional hand tighten.
I had a 1.5 hp compressor with a small receiver but it wasn't really up to powering air tools for anything but short bursts so I bought a
second one for 49 pounds from B&Q and now couple the outputs up when spray or using air tools -- even then it isn't real to continuously
running die grinders or air cut off tools which take a lot of air.
When buying a compressor the critical figure is the free air delivery (FAD) ideally this should match or exceed the tools air consumption. FAD
essentiall depends on three things the swept volume, the crank rpm and the efficiency of the compressor.
For tools that aren't in continuous use but work in short bursts -- such as impact wrenches, air ratchets the FAD isn't so critical as
long as a decent sized air receiver, but for die grinders, air saws, air cut off tools a good FAD is essential.
Spray guns need both a good FAD and a decent sized receiver.
[Edited on 1/3/05 by britishtrident]
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RogerM
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 06:47 PM |
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I have a Clarke set and it has never failed me! Running on a 2hp, 50l compressor it had no trouble undoing the amazingly tight nuts on Sierra rear
hubs. Just had to sit there for a few minutes each as it shocked them into submission. On the bottom (by the air inlet) is a dial, make sure
it's on 4 for undoing stuff and no more than 2 for tightening things like wheel nuts. Those settings are based on using the recomended 90psi.
As for the compressor the CFM is the biggy for air tools, capacity next. I have shop air in my domestic garage, 350l, 5 hp and snap ins everywhere.
Not cheap but the best investment ever after the TIG welder! I'd say go for something at least 100l and 3hp if you intend to use it heavily.
As for an air spinner, THE tool for fitting things in a hurry but no use at all for parting corroded itmes.
I have just put away my impact wrench, can't wait to turn of the TIG and get out the spinner.
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JoelP
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 07:35 PM |
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interesting that, roger, i only noticed settings up to 3 - might be why it struggled!
i like the idea of getting a bigger hose, when i stop using the wrench i can hear the hiss of flowing air for a few seconds from the compresor -
probably caused by the narrow 1/4 inch pipe.
cheers for the tips guys. the really stiff nuts (the ones on the rear subframe for example, and the tow bar) i used one of the non ratchet hand
things, with a long piece of 19mm tube over it - worked wonders, but not any good for a tight space. 
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:15 PM |
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Don't forget to lubricate any air tool with the correct oil and drain any moisture from compressor , can make a big difference.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:18 PM |
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1/4" pipe
Had a long leght of 1/4" coily, ruined air flow completely. Aquired the 1/2" and havent looked back, can get rid of 200ltr air tank in
next to no time. Impact wrench on 1/2" is v. good, I just happen to have some very rusty nuts that extended T bars.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 08:30 PM |
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Just about every Machine Mart impact wrench in the catalogue has a little note next to it - 10mm hose minimum.
I bought one recently - haven't got round to trying it yet! I did find the hose a bit unmanageable though...
David
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Bart69
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:08 PM |
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A tip that i learned as a boy that still amazes me how successfull it can be is to tighten the nut/bolt first.
graham
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Bart69
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:11 PM |
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ps especially good with rusty bleed nipples
not with a buzz gun though i hasen to ad
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Danozeman
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:13 PM |
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U need at least a 50 litre tank. I tried to run one with a 25 litre comp just turns too slow.. Turned the pressure up on it which helped a bit .
Just empties the tank too quick and the comp wont keep up.. Ideal for spraying though 
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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JoelP
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:28 PM |
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i found out that tightening them works by accident! id whacked the wrench to get it on, and put in into forward.
gonna get a 1/2 inch hose tomorrow then! and maybe a bigger pump too. i think its only about 25 litres and 7cfm.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:39 PM |
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not sure of compressor output (not very good I suspect, pumps old/worn) but with a 200ltr tank you can soon lose it through a 1/2" pipe and air
tool.
Then again when you start changing plough parts you have a lot of rusty nuts to remove.
I find best is to crack the nuts firts with a T bar, then whip em off with the impact rench and use the wrench to put them back on. Very quick and
easy that way as long as the air supply lasts.
The hose isnt to unmanagable as long as you have a reasonable length (5m from a wall point is plenty) and don't try to coil it up to tight.
[Edited on 1/3/05 by clbarclay]
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wilkingj
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| posted on 1/3/05 at 09:42 PM |
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Hmm Good tip about the pipe size...
I found my curly cord never worked that good. Now I know why it was cheap on a car boot sale!.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 08:26 AM |
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Not using a long run of air hose also helps.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 09:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Not using a long run of air hose also helps.
Very true, before my compressor got re plumed, it had about 25' of 3/8 bore (fixed fo wall) and then 50' of 1/4" bore coily hose.
The hose might as well have been crimped and was only good for inflating tyres, air tools hadn't a chance.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 09:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clbarclay
not sure of compressor output (not very good I suspect, pumps old/worn) but with a 200ltr tank you can soon lose it through a 1/2" pipe and air
tool.
Then again when you start changing plough parts you have a lot of rusty nuts to remove.
I find best is to crack the nuts firts with a T bar, then whip em off with the impact rench and use the wrench to put them back on. Very quick and
easy that way as long as the air supply lasts.
The hose isnt to unmanagable as long as you have a reasonable length (5m from a wall point is plenty) and don't try to coil it up to tight.
[Edited on 1/3/05 by clbarclay]
changing plough parts! Ahhhh, reminds me of my farm work days (many happy holidays/years!) windy gunning off countless plough points every morning and
again at lunch time!!
Wish I still worked on a farm, have to say the good days more than outweighed the bad ones!! Can't quite beat the feeling of unstoppability of a
fully ballasted Ford FW60!
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clbarclay
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:20 AM |
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I like the idea of an FW.
Do you think the local drag strip will let me race one at a run-what-u-brung meeting?
How will the 0-60 time compare with a locost?
[Edited on 3/3/05 by clbarclay]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:43 AM |
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0-60 might be tricky
could probably pull the dragster off the wrong way whilst it was going off the line though!
It was amusig when we needed to grub some trees out (actually this was a big massey artic thing, MF 4880 I think) it just towed them out of the ground
with about 1/2 a field still attached!!
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irvined
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 01:25 PM |
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Lube! Lube! Lube
I've been using my air nibbler relentlessly for the last month, and I can't stress how much of a difference a well oiled line makes.
I'm now finding I can use my 1.5hp 50l compressor continueously and still cut (albeit fairly slowly) where as before I would do 50cm, and have
to stop until it got some more pressure.
Whilst it wont make all the difference for your impact wrench, it will certainly stop them wearing out as quickly.
I've also got an impact wrench and its my new best friend.
Cheers
David
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clbarclay
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 07:47 PM |
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The oil not only lubricates the tool but also helps seal the piston etc. inside the tool so less air leaks past them.
Less air leaking = better performance
If you ever do a compression test on a IC engine you will know that you do the test with the piston/cylinder dry, and again with a small amount of oil
in the cylinder to make sure the piston rings are not leaking.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 07:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
0-60 might be tricky
could probably pull the dragster off the wrong way whilst it was going off the line though!
60 in an artic would be a laugh
All you need to do for drag racing is fit a set of tripple wheels and there won't be room left on the track for anything else. Instant sucsess.
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MikeR
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 12:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by irvined
I'm now finding I can use my 1.5hp 50l compressor continueously
Is this the one i got you? if so its only a 25l tank .....
all these comments are making me think about chaning my long coily 3/8 hose!
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JoelP
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 01:42 PM |
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im still waiting to buy a thicker short hose, need some more money!
the thing that is playing on my mind is the fittings. Does 3/8" or 1/2" hose have bigger fittings on the ends? cos my compressor and
wrench both have 1/4" bsp ends. Propbably doesnt matter too much, but doesnt the end connector act like a bottle neck?
im gonna get two 10m lengths of 3/8", then i only need use the length i need.
is 1/2 inch easily available or worth having in my situation? there seems to be none on ebay, and even machine mart barely mentions it.
cheers, Joel.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 01:56 PM |
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The fittings I use are normal (1/4) fittings with adapters to take the bigger pipe.
Like electrical resistors resistance is a produst of area and lenght.
smaller fittings do reduce the over all resistance of the pipe, but don't act as a upper limit to the pipe, it won't be like running pipe
with a 1/4 bore along the entire lenght.
In short 3/8 inch connectors would be better, but 1/4 connectors are not much worse than 3/8.
[Edited on 4/3/05 by clbarclay]
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