Simon F27
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:05 AM |
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Cutting Fibreglass
Did a search on this with no results. Can anyone give me any suggestions on what is the best way to cut fibreglass, and what are the best tools,
jigsaw etc.
cheers
Simon
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Triton
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:09 AM |
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All depends what you are doing.......drilling, ideally a blunt drill bit, hacksaw, course blade.....anything powered is a lot easier than trying to do
it by hand..ie dremel type tools that spin fast.
Cheers
Mark
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smart51
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:21 AM |
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Use old tools. If you use a new drill bit on fibreglass, it will soon become a blunt drill bit. It will work on fibreglass for ever but will never
drill metal again.
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speed8
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:23 AM |
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I just bought a Dremel with loads of attachments. It was for doing another job on my car but I'm sure it will come in handy when I start
building.
I would imagine it would be perfect for stuff like cutting fibreglass.
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rayroni
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:38 AM |
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Got a Dremmel clone from B&Q 'Professional range' 3 yr warranty. Lots of attachments - £40. And yes it has been superb on fibreglass
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SixedUp
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 07:38 AM |
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For what its worth, the best success I had was with a tile saw (one of those "wires" thats been coated with something sharp). I suspect
thats because its designed to cope with ceramics, which probably isnt too dissimilar to the glass fibres.
Anyway, whatever the reason it cuts through fibreglass like a hot knife through butter, is very controllable, and you can do intricate shapes very
easily. The quality of the cut is very good, but I then used some cheap mini-files to smooth the edge before glueing on some thin rubber edging.
B&Q only sell special length blades to suit their saws ($$$), but Wickes sell ones to fit into a standard junior hacksaw. I think they might also
fit a small coping saw too, which would give you much more clearance from the blade to the bow of the saw, which might make it easier to use for some
cuts.
If you go this route on a gelcoated panel remember to put some paper tape on the gelcoat side, and cut down into the gelcoat (rather than the other
way around) to stop it chipping as you make the cut.
Cheers
Richard
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 08:21 AM |
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as above, it all depends on the job.
i favour:
-jigsaw for straight lines
-'chain' drilling a perforation for bits hard to get to with jigsaw, and then snapping off with pliers. (file afterwards)
- hole cutting set for perfect circles
- a metal drill bit attachment with coarse cheesegrater-like outer for roughly expanding shapes
- a big cylindrical drill attachment covered in sandpaper for smoothing curves off.
- and last of all, a set of hand files of varying sizes. this is for final smoothing and intricate jobs (tiny notches and shapes)
dont discount them as hard work, you'll get some of the best results with these. use power tools to do the grunt work and hand tools to finish.
its slower, but less chance of making a mistake 
I also cut less than I should out on the initial go, and test it. expand, test, expand, test again, refine.. etc.. take your time and dont just
cut a huge hole only to find its slightly wrong, and needs modified to be even bigger!
i was terrified of making an arse of it to being with but im quite confortable carving chunks in the body now. 
cheers,
Rog
-Rog
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Mike S
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 08:32 AM |
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The best tools for cutting GRP are grit edged tools.
They are often used (sold) for tile cutting and other ceramics.
They can be had in standard hacksaw blade sizes as well as junior hacksaw, jig saw, band saw blades and even files.
As mentioned in an earlier reply, will cut through GRP like a hot knife through butter without the tearing associated with normal
"toothed" tools.
The grit edged tool used to remove grouting and cement lines makes a great tool for doing more detailed triming on curves.
B+Q do some grit edge tools, but I got most of mine from Screwfix Direct.
Cheers
Mike
There are more horses' asses in this world than there are horses
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Hellfire
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 08:46 AM |
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Another vote for a dremmel with small cutting disc...
 bigger image
HERE use tape (masking) is ok, to help prevent spangling of the gel coat
when cutting. We also used a 3mm diameter routing type bit like this
 which is perfect for side cutting therefore making it great for jobs like this
 (bigger image
HERE)
HTH
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 09:13 AM |
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i use an angle grinder with , with a ceramic tile cutter , straight thru - kevlar is a bit tricky tho !
for holes i use a hole cutter , then a dremel to adjust .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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DarrenW
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 12:00 PM |
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Rotozip
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stevebubs
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| posted on 6/9/05 at 12:24 PM |
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If cutting lines etc, a dremel-type tool with diamond cutting wheel rules!
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 7/9/05 at 09:00 AM |
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I've posted something similar to this previously, but nonetheless...
Worked with composites most of my life.
NEVER use abrasive type tools if you can avoid it. ALWAYS use a mask, the very best you can get. Not those silly dust mask things either.
Cut grp with tools with teeth, as you get chunks, and not dust. If sanding, use the coursest paper you can get away with, before final finishing.
The dust from GRP produces an illness akin to asbestosis; and carbon, kevlar and the like are magnitudes worse. Carbon dust is known to cause lung and
throat cancers, but not widely told.
And, as I said previously which Shug seconded, take this seriously and protect yourselves.
I've got the lungs and throat now, from being too cavalier with safety earlier.
Syd.
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SixedUp
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| posted on 18/9/05 at 09:41 AM |
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Syd,
Thanks for this warning. I for one was not aware of these dangers.
Cheers
Richard
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