chockymonster
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 posted on 3/9/06 at 02:22 PM |
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Removing a snapped bolt
Today was a bad morning in the garage, I had a problem with the oil pressure sender adapter that I had plumbed into the side of my R1 engine.
It was a small brass adaptor with a hollow M6 bolt that screwed into the side of the engine. It looks like I overtightened it as it was sitting on the
floor leaving a hollow m6 brass bolt in the side of the block.
It's in an awkward place to get at, what can I use to get it out of the block?
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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fesycresy
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 02:31 PM |
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Have you tried an easy out, as there's already a hole in it ?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 02:32 PM |
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If you use an easiout be VERY careful, sometimes hitting the end of the broken part with a drift can slacken it in the crankcase . It may be possible
to tap a thread in the end , fit a bolt with a lock nut which can be tightened onto remains of adaptor then the bolt turned anticlockwise to remove
remains. Last resort is to drill it out and retap threads. Best of luck but at least brass is easy to drill/tap
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Peteff
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 04:02 PM |
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If that's a picture of it you should be able to get it with a deep socket or a box spanner.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 04:11 PM |
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Trouble is I think that was the part before it was sheared
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JB
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 07:10 PM |
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Removing Stuck Adapter
An easy out will be your best starting point especially if the wall thickness is quite large. The problem with an easiout is if the wall thickness is
thin it can expand the stuck part making it jam even more.
But as you have only just installed this you should be OK. But take it easy because if you snap the easiout then your troubles do begin.
The other option is to use a chisel or punch and try to turn the part by tapping it.
Drilling is a last resort because it would then be a full engine rebuild due to swarf in the oil way.
Another option is to block it off and try somewhere else.
Good luck.
John
[Edited on 3/9/06 by JB]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 07:15 PM |
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Is there anyway you could cut/chisel etc a channel across the end and use a screwdriver?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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chockymonster
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Trouble is I think that was the part before it was sheared
It certainly was.
It looks like I need to get an easy-out, I'm a bit worried about depth though as there is a chassis bar about 2 inches away from it.
It has just over a 3mm hole in the centre of the ex-adaptor. I can't tap it as I can't get an M4 tap to start.
My other alternative is to seal the hole off and use the oil cooler bolt for the sender.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 07:19 PM |
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If you have one might be worth trying an impact screwdriver with perhaps a pozidrive/philips bit?
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moggybloke
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 07:20 PM |
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whack the end of it with a hammer then get an easy out (parallel type) made by rothenberger or snapon and try these the tapered easy outs made by the
likes of skf are poo if its tight or drillout the core and collapse it inwards 
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chockymonster
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 08:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JB
An easy out will be your best starting point especially if the wall thickness is quite large. The problem with an easiout is if the wall thickness is
thin it can expand the stuck part making it jam even more.
The wall is 1mm thick. Which I think will cause problems with it sticking.
quote:
But as you have only just installed this you should be OK. But take it easy because if you snap the easiout then your troubles do begin.
I may have just installed it, but it was put back in with threadlock as it was vibrating loose.
quote:
The other option is to use a chisel or punch and try to turn the part by tapping it.
I can't get at it enough to do that
quote:
Drilling is a last resort because it would then be a full engine rebuild due to swarf in the oil way.
Fortunately I can't get at it to drill it, so that won't be problem!
quote:
Another option is to block it off and try somewhere else.
I think this is my only option.
What's the best stuff to block it off with?
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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907
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 08:21 PM |
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If it is M6 and you have a 1mm wall then the hole is 4mm?
If so, tap it M5 and put a bolt in.
Paul G
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02GF74
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| posted on 3/9/06 at 09:12 PM |
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I'd personally would want to remove it.
you can get left hand taps you know - and use the largerst sie that will fit (for inner strength and leaves less bass so make the plug weaker).
then put in a bolt, tun it a bit - if is still feels stuck apply heat (maybe run engine with bolt blocking the hole ) the different temperature will
make a difference, whether it will help, i don't know.
can you get a drill - fleix shaft jobbie or right angled head to enlarge or dirll it out?
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JB
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| posted on 4/9/06 at 04:21 AM |
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Block It Off
Get a brass plug that is a real nice fit and use 638 Loctite to hold it in.
I use plugs held in with Loctite 638 to block off the oil ways in my engines. The problem if you tap is the swarf, may go into the engine unles you
get a vacuum cleaner and adapt a pipe to fit the end and hold it close to the hole.
Also try to pressurise the oilway with air so air is blowing out of the hole.
John
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johnjulie
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| posted on 8/9/06 at 06:59 PM |
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Bit confusing this, I presume the picture shows the union before it snapped, and all thats left in the block is the threaded part. Easy outs or stud
extractors are your best option. There is one available that is square section, running down to a taper. You tap it into the hole, so the four corners
of the square bite into the sides of the union. then you can grip it and unscrew the union. Your problem is obviously space. They are usually about
1.5 to 3 inches long, and need to be tapped in. You could grind the short end of an allen key to a square taper, tap it in and try and turn it out.
If your really keen to get it out, I'd remove the engine so you've got more room.
Good luck
Cheers John
[Edited on 8/9/06 by johnjulie]
[Edited on 8/9/06 by johnjulie]
JFDI
"Just F*****G Do It"
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