Catpuss
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 11:53 AM |
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Sheared Pinto zorst studs
OK, started the big clean up of my garage in preparation for the great building.
My 2 litre pinto sitting there niceley awaiting things to be done to it. Then I notices that one zorst stud was missing (no big deal) but one had
sheared off about flush (if not below) the line of the cylinder head.
OK, after that rambling, anyone got proper experience of extracting a stud. I've heard horror stories of stud extractors breaking leaving an
undrillable stud, but is is really that common.
I did thing of doing a blob of mig weld down the middle of, say, a 5mm nut to form a temporary cap, but would rather avoid this incase the focused
heat causes any problems with the head.
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nitram38
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 11:58 AM |
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Use your Mig to weld on top of the stud so you have a bit sticking out. Then weld a piece of steel onto the bit sticking out at about 45 degrees.
Immediately move the stud side to side to free it up.
The heat from the weld should help.
I have done it this way 100's of times.
Good luck!!!!!!
[Edited on 23/10/2006 by nitram38]
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 12:27 PM |
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If you can centrepunch the stud and get a 3mmish drill down the middle then get a bigger drill up to about 6mm the rest should come out with a m8 tap
easily enough. Use bolts instead if tou can get them all out
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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mookaloid
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 12:33 PM |
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As Nitram38 says Mig is by far the best way to do this.
The pinto head is cast iron and there should be no issues at all using this method.
The stud extractors rarely work and usually snap off in my experience. The main problem is as you tighten the stud extractor it expands the stud in
the hole and siezes it even harder!
cheers
Mark
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chockymonster
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 12:34 PM |
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Use the welding method.
I tried the easiout method, if a stud has sheared when undoing then the easiout is likely to do the same.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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marcjagman
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 01:54 PM |
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I agree use a mig, look at it this way, it's already scrap? so what do you have to lose?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 03:43 PM |
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The heat method is best. It doesnt always work though, it depends on how seized in the stud is.
I had an idle mixture jet adjuster siezed into one of my webers, in the end I made a jig up to hold the carb and drilled the screw out then picked
what was left of the thread out with a pin. Not fun, but it is occasionaly what has to be done..
David
[Edited on 23/10/06 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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nitram38
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 03:55 PM |
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Aren't webbers aluminium?
Originally we were talking about a stud in cast.
The weld method will work in aluminium if you can get someone to TIG the stud as this will produce more heat. Part of the problem with studs in
aluminium, is that they use thread lock and this is what needs the heat to remove.
[Edited on 23/10/2006 by nitram38]
[Edited on 23/10/2006 by nitram38]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 04:01 PM |
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Yes we were, I was just giving an example of past experience.
I can also say that you can buy stud extractors which are reasonably soft so you can still drill them if you need to. they have 4 blades on them and
work very well.
If you break a normal stud extractor off in a seized bolt you will never drill it out. It will then have to be spark eroded out which is a pain to say
the least...
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Catpuss
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 07:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by marcjagman
I agree use a mig, look at it this way, it's already scrap? so what do you have to lose?
I'm hoping it doesn't end up scapped. It was the one I bought off Roadrunner out of his Indy so I don't really want to fubar it.
I think I'll go for a blob of weld at the weekend then weld nuts on to all the studs and replace the lot with bolts. Nuke em all, only way to be
sure 
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