iank
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 posted on 7/1/07 at 10:55 PM |
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Cr*ppy machinemart tools again
I should learn, my machinemart balljoint separator decided to commit suicide on the last balljoint I have to disassemble. It was one of
>> these <<. One of the forks broke off.
The hammer technique didn't want to move it either, so I will need to replace it with something more reliable. Any recommendations? Do the
pickle fork style ones work well?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 10:59 PM |
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I have one that the bolt pushes on the balljoint thread and the body hooks around the otherside of the upright. Wind on some tension then clout with a
big hammer, works every time and has had a lot of use.
Like this:
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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ayoungman
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 11:15 PM |
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as an old landrover owner, I've done a lot of ball joints in my time, The type above is the one I've used for years.
"just like that !"
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 11:21 PM |
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Never used anything more than a pry bar and 2 meduim hammers, 100% success rate
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Peteff
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 11:53 PM |
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Never failed with smacking both sides with a hammer at the same time and it's non destructive if you want to use the joint again, or hold a club
hammer against one side while you welt the other, 3 hits does it unless you are a bit girly 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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macnab
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 08:43 AM |
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I also use the hammer method, never fails. balljoint separators are for girls
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Guinness
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 09:34 AM |
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Ian, I've got one of these somewhere :-
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040214998&r=2076&g=111
That you can borrow if you like.
Mike
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JohnN
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 01:44 PM |
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Those long handled fork types shown by Guinness, in my experience, bugger the rubber boot, as does a pry bar. I've been on the receiving end of
a "botched" job using this kind of kit, when I didn't have the time to do the job myself. Of course the garage concerned were proud
to have used a "effin long bar to separate the joint" but vehemently denied causing the split to both boots in question. They were
replacing both drive shaft gaiters and needed to separate the joint temporarily to do it.
The Flak Monkey type are great if you can get them in position, but the best ones I've seen, are the scissor type that act in the same way, and
can get into more confined spaces.
The synchronised hammer solution is good if you get plenty of practice and can stand under the car on a lift, but lying on the floor under the car is
more the norm, in which case a "tool" is the only way for me
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JoelP
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 03:09 PM |
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in the past, ive used a nut to help protect the thread and then just whacked it out with a hammer.
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Browser
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 07:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Never failed with smacking both sides with a hammer at the same time and it's non destructive if you want to use the joint again, or hold a club
hammer against one side while you welt the other, 3 hits does it unless you are a bit girly
Is this the 'smack both sides of the lug on the hub the balljoint bolts to? If so I can't get it to work for me, how hard d'you have
to hit them?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 8/1/07 at 09:45 PM |
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Probably easier to demonstrate than to tell how hard to hit . my trusty 1.5lb hammer gets used 99 times out of 100
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 12:09 AM |
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Is this the 'smack both sides of the lug on the hub the balljoint bolts to?
Yes, I don't own a splitter so the technique comes in handy. Use the 1.5lb ball pein as mentioned and hit it as hard as you can. If you slacken
the nut off a few turns and leave it on you can see when it drops. It works if you can only hold a hammer firmly to the other side of it as it's
the shock that breaks the taper. It works on track rod ends as well.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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