shades
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 posted on 16/1/07 at 12:09 AM |
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Bullet or spade crimps ?
Is there any reason for using a bullet crimp instead of a spade crimp and vice versa? Seem to have a mixture on my tiger loom
Also whats the best method of joining two wires? male/female crimp or solder and shrink wrap?
Thanks
Adrian
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:11 AM |
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Solder and heatshrink if it's supposed to be permanent. Shrinkwrap is good for leftovers in the fridge. 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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shades
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:15 AM |
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 yea, was just making my sandwiches for tomorrow... Heat shrink
Thanks
Adrian
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:18 AM |
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IMHO Bullets are just old fashioned!
ie they were used on old cars and motorbikes before spade terminals were invented.
That said they are obviously used on modern bikes too (not sure about cars)
They are a little more compact than spades but are rarely used on "fixed" connectors such as a horn or a switch, so are less universal
than spades.
I am sure there is more to add to this??
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shades
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:20 AM |
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Yea I have been tining the ends before crimping them and then heatshrink...
Thanks
Adrian
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ayoungman
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:29 AM |
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I've been doing the same. Put it this way, they are not going to fall apart. You can be sure if there is an electrical fault, its bound to be a
connection that is on a guage or switch.
"just like that !"
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another_dom
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 07:01 AM |
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Calvin is correct about soldered joints becoming brittle. In aviation all joints are made using (very expensive) butt crimps. Probably a little over
the top on a kit build though, where failure is less likely to be catastrophic!
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RazMan
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 08:14 AM |
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To make reliable crimped joints you really need to spend £40-50 on a decent ratchet crimp tool - forget the 'bargain' jobbies for £20. You
also need to make sure that you are using the correct gauge of wire for the crimp and good quality connectors or you will either damage the wire or
make a loose joint. Soldering is the second best way imo and, as already mentioned, can make a brittle joint.
The insulated crimp connectors you buy in Halfrauds etc are not really up to the job and it is best to get some from a decent manufacturer like AMP.
RS or Farnell have a few quality alternatives. The best ones have two crimp sites - one for the wire and the other as a strain relief securing the
insulation.
[Edited on 16-1-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 08:34 AM |
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I have been told about the "brittle joint" result of soldering many times, and no doubt in planes lifed for 20 yrs it is an issue, but I
have soldered every joint in all the various car looms I have made over the years, and have only ever had one electrical failure, and that was on my
grasser with its solid mounted vauxhall XE engine, where it disintegrated an aftermarket fuseholder due to the vibration........................none
of the soldered joints ever caused a problem!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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fesycresy
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 08:50 AM |
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On of my customers showed me a lap joint, in their opinion the best joint, but found it a bit awkward on cars.
So I push the two bare ends into each other and twist, tin the iron, then solder over. Been doing it like that for years with no failures.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 09:29 AM |
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Bullet connectors start to stretch and go a bit loose if they're undone and done up a few times, so if you're likely to be unplugging it
with any kind of frequency then use a spade.
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02GF74
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 09:32 AM |
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^^^^ as the nun says. this is what I do. you need to have good mechanical contact of the wires and the solder is for electrical contact.
I splay the end of each wires, then push them together so the strands intermingle, then twist. that gives some mechanical strength. Apply flux then
solder finishes the job.
bullets v spades - can't see there is that much in it - I've had spades loosen so not sure that argument is valid (a nip up using pliers
sorts that out).
.... but spades are generally easier to find in the shops.
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 10:57 AM |
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Bullets and solder most of the time, spades soldered some of the time .
But IMO coloured crimp spades look shite , cheap and nasty can really bring a build quality down.
Crimps say 'KIT CAR'
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Surrey Dave
But IMO coloured crimp spades look shite , cheap and nasty can really bring a build quality down.
Crimps say 'KIT CAR'
I couldn't agree more!
Don't use "Pre-Insulated" spade terminals use bare ones with proper ratchet crimp pliers and insulating covers.
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