02GF74
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:16 AM |
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DIY stainless steel studs?
I intend to get some M8 A2 stainless steel bolts, chop the heads off then run a 5/16 UNC die so make my own studs (metric ends).
If necessary, I can file down the shank to 7.9 mm to be right size for the die.
I have never put a thread onto stainless before so will it be easy to do?
And what is the best way to hold the headless bolt (two nuts and spring washer) so it stays put without damaging the threads?
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smart51
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:31 AM |
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How long is the plain length of shank on the bolt? How much thread do you want to put on there? Could you clamp the centre of the bolt that will
remain plain?
File an 8mm shaft down to 7.9mm? That's 50um or 2 thou per side. Do you need to bother? I have cut A2 stainless bolts with a hacksaw. It
isn't too hard.
Edit: Buy more bolts than you need incase you make a mess of the first few
[Edited on 30-1-2007 by smart51]
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:33 AM |
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1) No it won't be easy. I found stainless tends to tear. Much harder to do than mild steel.
2) Thread it before you cut the head off. Use a longer bolt if you have to.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:39 AM |
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Are these studs intended for an engine block? If so, you should be aware that stainless has a nasty tendency to 'pick up' or catch when
you're threading them into other materials, and can be an absolute bar steward to get back out again. 95% of the time this won't happen -
but when it does...
Not trying to be a prophet of doom, but you need to be aware.
David
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02GF74
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
2) Thread it before you cut the head off. Use a longer bolt if you have to.
so how do I get the die past the M8 threaded bit?
seems like it is not gonna work, anyone after some 50 mm M8 stainless bolts 
I'll get some 8.8, BZP bolts just in case.
The studs are to go into a cast iron head; asked about tis earlier and someone said it was ok to use stianless  I will clean up the threads with a
tap and use copper slip.
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 02GF74]
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RazMan
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 09:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
stainless has a nasty tendency to 'pick up' or catch when you're threading them into other materials, and can be an absolute bar
steward to get back out again. 95% of the time this won't happen - but when it does...
I just discovered this with some stainless self tappers - I had to wrench them out with mole grips! My lambda plug did the same too  I'll
stick to mild steel thanks...
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Hellfire
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 10:07 AM |
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Stainless has a tendancy to pick up on any metal when threading or cutting... it's due to the chrome in it.
Lots of manufactured Stainless threads are not cut, they are rolled to help strength.
I would avoid re-threading your own bolts (missus!!!) sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
Steve
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 10:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
I will clean up the threads with a tap and use copper slip.
Best choice! Tried and tested technique, and shouldn't cause any difficulty in the future. If you get some proper brass nuts to match,
you'll eliminate another potential cause of problems.
Good luck,
David
P.S. I'm sure you'll find a good use for M8 x 50 bolts in your build - my car's full of SS nuts & bolts in non-stress
applications!
[Edited on 30/1/07 by David Jenkins]
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02GF74
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 10:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
I would avoid re-threading your own bolts (missus!!!) sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
well I've got the die & spare time in the evenings so at 80 p (+ £ 3 pp) per ready made stud or 7 p per bolt, hmmm............. ...
and I'll be metric too
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 02GF74]
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suparuss
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 11:23 AM |
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i used stainless studding for me exhaust manifold onto the alloy head with no probs at all. id think a tensile bolt will be no easier to thread than
stainless, youll need a hss die though, a carbon steel one wont last 2 minutes.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 03:32 PM |
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When I was doing my engineering apprenticeship nearly 40 years ago one of the tools we had to make was a thread clamp.
What this consisted of was two pieces of mild steel clamped together a hole drilled and tapped down between them and then file the faces down so that
they clamp the thread in place. Unfortunately being as old as this it was imperial thread not metric, so I need to make a new one.
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02GF74
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 03:36 PM |
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nice idea .... a locost version would be to saw a cut down one side of a nut or two and stick in a vice?
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 02GF74]
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907
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| posted on 30/1/07 at 05:56 PM |
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I'm with Suparuss, a length of s/s studding from Screwfix is dirt cheap.
One thing puzzles me though.
If you want a stud with a plain bit in the middle, and are prepared to buy the bolts, why not just buy studs?
Paul G
SORRY. Just read your first post again.
Mixed threads.
I DO FEEL A FOOL
[Edited on 30/1/07 by 907]
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02GF74
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| posted on 31/1/07 at 08:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
One thing puzzles me though.
If you want a stud with a plain bit in the middle, and are prepared to buy the bolts, why not just buy studs?
For the same reason we are building a car instead of writing a cheque to MR Carertham. 
Ok, not the same scale but it is the sense of achievement of DIYing it and the money saved, which is to be honest insignificant cf 7 p for DIY vs 80
p + £ 3 postage)
Also I will be getting metric ends so sourcing nuts in M8 is easier/cheaper then 5/16 UNF
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