mic
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 08:02 AM |
|
|
mig or arc welder
which is better to use for the chassis? ive got a 130amp draper turbo mig but havent had much practise so gonna have to play first anyway before i
start doing the serious stuff, but is that gonna be ok for doin the chassis or do i need something more like an arc?
www.retromods.co.uk
|
|
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 08:29 AM |
|
|
MIG every time!!
Practise on the same stuff you are using for the chassis and practise the fillet welds as they are the hardest to get right without laying a slug
along one piece and completely missing the other!! Make sure the surfaces are shiney clean and it will make things easier.
Good luck.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
Ivan
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 08:29 AM |
|
|
I don't know anything about your machine but for welding a chassis I would say it's fine.
In order of preference I would say:
1 - TIG
2 - MIG
3 - Arc (stick welder)
I would say MIG and TIG are very satisfactory for welding a chassis with MIG being a bit easier to learn and TIG giving neater welds with less
distortion in steel and being by far the best for thin aluminium.
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 08:29 AM |
|
|
Mig.......
The 130amp will just about do your chassis.
You will need some practice to do the 3mm thick steel plate
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 09:33 AM |
|
|
Practice practice practice! (MIG MIG MIG) 
Before attempting a chassis it might be a good idea to book yourself on a welding tuition course at your local college. 
[Edited on 1-7-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 10:18 AM |
|
|
Another MIG 
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 10:38 AM |
|
|
If you can master arc welding 1.6mm box, it will produce a neater and stronger weld than mig, but not better than tig.
so:-
1, TIG
2, ARC
3, MIG
You would need an inverter MMA unit with an OCV of over 70v, definately NOT and air cooled transformer unit.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
gazza285
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 12:02 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
You would need an inverter MMA unit with an OCV of over 70v, definately NOT and air cooled transformer unit.
Or a stinking oil cooled set, much cheaper than an inverter, just need two people to move them. Don't forget the convenience of an arc set as
well, no having to move the set around because the leads aren't long enough, and you can use them outside in the wind.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
|
|
|
steve m
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 02:54 PM |
|
|
I used an arc welder on my chassis , and floor
If thats what youve got then use it,
but now that I have an MIG as well, MIG welding is soooo much easier that arc
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 1/7/07 at 03:39 PM |
|
|
As long as the machine is well maintained you should be fine with the Mig setup (it's so much easier than the Arc or TIG)...
I couldn't work out why my welding was so spluttery- wondered if it was the motor or liner the first turns okay and I replaced the second
without a difference.
The nozzle at the end of the gun is knackered but I couldn't work out why that would make a difference.... Then when reading Practical Classics
they point out that if the nozzle is too large (ie if it's orifice is worn out) it won't contact the wire properly and you'll get
wonky conduction....
Looks like I need some new nozzle bits.. Hopefully that'll sort it- my frying bacon sound is a bit stop + start!!!
|
|
|
