adam1985
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 11:33 PM |
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really stupid question
am building a locost with just the chris gibbs book and you guys as help but i aint exactly sure when i should be using washers when there not needed
and when to use nyloc bolts or just normal bolts any help would be thaankful adam
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Triton
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| posted on 15/5/08 at 11:43 PM |
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Best to use washers to save bolt head and nut from chewing up parts also best to use nylocs but only really supposed to be used once...
Have fun....
Cheers,
Mark
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 01:29 AM |
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That’s not a stupid question at all.
Washers are used to spread the load over the parts and to stop the surface being damaged when you turn the nut. Select the correct type for the
material to be clamped, for example on glassfiber or aluminium parts use as large as you can get (called penny or repair washers). On the suspension
use thicker ones so that they don't distort due to the higher loads. You will also most likely need them to pack out things like the coilovers
basically using them as heavy shims. If possible use stainless fasteners on all but the high tensile ones and make sure you use the correct strength
grade checking what’s written on top of the bolt like 8.8, good quality nuts will have this stamped on at least one face, assume any that are not
marked to be rubbish. Personally I'd use nylocks on everything except bolting on the stereo and the exhaust system (brass nuts on stainless
bolts are great here). Buy the fasteners on line or at an industrial supplier, not somewhere like B&Q. Even using stainless ones it should not be
more than £50-£80 for the whole lot.
If you’re not at any point sure what to use ask on this site, we know everything 
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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jabs
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 06:50 AM |
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I agree not B&Q, unless you have money to throw away, a single 12mm x 60mm bolt is over a £1 whereas from supplier you can buy a box of 50 for
about £9
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mad4x4
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 07:39 AM |
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Agree
Go to a bolt supplier, and buy arange of sizes + washers + Nuts & Nylocks- may cost u £100 + for a load. say sizes M6, M8, M10 & M12.
& specify 8.8 Grade. For things smaller people like machinemart or screwfix do selection boxes.
Cost might be large for bolts but once you have em the ammount of time it will save and cost it will save will be unbelievable.
Have a look on Ebay aswell there is a guy that sells K'Bin rack systems cheaply. Buy one of these and mount it in the shed/wall and you will be
able to lay you hands on the bolts rather than scrabble about in a big tub.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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brynhamlet
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 07:41 AM |
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For nuts and bolts etc. try Tifosi. web site is Tifosi-Devon, I think. If he hasn't got it he will try to source it for you.
I would use stainless for everything, cos it stays looking nice.
I prefer locking washers to lock nuts, cos when your trying to tighten up nuts, you can wind them up to almost tight you can do it with your fingers,
especially usefull in difficult to get to places and they are re-usable.
For short locking nuts you can get aircaft ones, I think from Burton-Power
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rayward
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 07:47 AM |
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just worth noting, don;t use stainless bolts for anything structural (i.e brakes/suspension)
Ray
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BenB
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 08:01 AM |
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B+Q typically don't have the one you need anyway 
but they're useful for the occasional "if only I had one more ......" type situation...
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smart51
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 08:15 AM |
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B&Q are open late and at weekends. You pay for the privelage, but if you need a nut / bolt / washer / length of tube, grinder disc etc. to finish
a job...
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 09:07 AM |
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one other point about stainless is that some grades (especially low quality stainless) are extremely prone to galling were the nut and bolt start
basically fuse and tear each others threads to bits. Never try to bolt up a sticking thread, it will just get worse till they fuse solid. Copper slip
helps prevent this but is not 100% effective and WD40 is utterly useless. This is why I use the brass nuts on the exhaust system as the vibration can
over time make them gall too, to stop the brass nuts slackening just use two tightened against each other.
[Edited on 16/5/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 01:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
B&Q are open late and at weekends. You pay for the privelage, but if you need a nut / bolt / washer / length of tube, grinder disc etc. to finish
a job...
..but their hardware (nuts bolts etc) is mostly ungraded i.e. basically made of cheese, so don't use them for anything safety critical, or
anything that's going to be more than mildly stressed.
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jwallbank
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 01:05 PM |
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I agree with Triton "......also best to use nylocs but only really supposed to be used once."
However, if like me, you need to assemble & disassemble several times then buy some ordinary ones as well - cheap as you can get, use them so that
you can dismantle and re-assemble as many times as you need then when you are sure that the job is completed replace with the nyloc ones.
John W
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Litemoth
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 01:34 PM |
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I think the rule of thumb with washers is, if in doubt, use one.
At the risk of repeating my learned colleagues.....
The washer usually fits under the turning element (usually the nut) to prevent it 'picking up' or biting into the material being clamped.
It also distibuites the clamping force more evenly.
Nyloc nuts are good but don't be afraid to use 'Loctite' on standard nuts. It's a thread-locking liquid and comes in a wide
variety of strengths and applications (some allow dis-assembly and some are for life)
Use good quality, plated, fasteners with at least an 8:8 (10:9 are ok too) embossed on the head. This is an indicator of the bolt's tensile
strength.
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RazMan
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 02:18 PM |
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Get a tub of Copperslip and put a small dollop on everything during assembly - you will thank me in a few years.
Oh and I think Mr W means copper nuts on the exhaust - they don't sieze when heated.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Blue Fox
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 02:46 PM |
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I was told several years ago you should never use a spring washer with a nyloc as it works against the nyloc and can cause it to come undone!!
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 02:46 PM |
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Mr Wippy could well use brass nuts. Exhaust manifolds all had brass nuts when I started. Now I'd use copper exhaust locknuts.
Before you go into an industiral fastner shop, make sure you know the correct name for what you want and the difference between a screw and a bolt
(nylocks are nuts, not bolts for instance). They tend to take the wee if not in those places!
adrian
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 03:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
(nylocks are nuts, not bolts for instance).
Nylok Bolts
Just a pedant taking the wee!
[Edited on 16/5/08 by David Jenkins]
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 03:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
(nylocks are nuts, not bolts for instance).
Nylok Bolts
Just a pedant taking the wee!
[Edited on 16/5/08 by David Jenkins]
Nyloc nuts are the ones with a nylon insert at the domed end . Nylok is different and has the nylon embedded in the thread of either the nut or the
bolt.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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mr henderson
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 04:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
difference between a screw and a bolt (nylocks are nuts, not bolts for instance). They tend to take the wee if not in those places!
adrian
That'll be machine screw of course
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 05:07 PM |
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I've just re-read my post and I'msorry if it sounded like I was being pedantic. It wasn't meant that way.
However the guys that work in nut and bolt shops always seem to be, They'll bring exactly what you ask for, which is never what you actually
want. Then they'll tut and roll thier eyes and slope off for (exactly) what you've now explained you want and then...Some time later you
might get what you want!
Just dont ask for 4 candles!
adrian
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/5/08 at 05:23 PM |
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Don't worry - I was only yanking your chain!
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