coozer
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 posted on 16/1/10 at 11:34 AM |
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Cruising Antifouling Paint?
Right peeps, we'll start with the phrase "I hate trying to make cosmetic things look good." Give me a pile of engine bits any
day.
The new Toolstation catalogue droppped through the door yesterday and they have a new range in antifouling paint. I guess its for boats, but is it
suitable for chassis and exposed trans parts, axles etc?
Heres a LINK to it. I know its not cheap but would it be good
for stopping corrosion on cars??
I thank you,
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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cosmick
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 11:39 AM |
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No Definately not. Antifouling is designed to rub off which is why it needs redoing and its expensive. It also dries out if it is not immersed in
water. Stick to Automotive paints that are cheaper and more durable.
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 11:39 AM |
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no it will be rubbish.
i work in a chandlery.
Antifoul is what it says, it stops foul build up under the water on the hull, antifoul only works when in the water, it will not protect car parts and
it also contains copper which will destroy any alloy bits you paint.
so NO
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tomprescott
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 11:42 AM |
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Best off with a zinc or red oxide paint followed by hammerite in my opinion, cheap and lasts a while. If you want a better finish pay the money and go
to a powder coating place!
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richardlee237
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 11:48 AM |
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Simple answer is no !
Antifouling is to kill biological growth. weeds barnacles etc
The paint is designed to be a soft coating that abrades away with the flow of the water past the hull. As each new piece of paint is exposed to the
water, it releases a small amount of biocide to kill marine growth. Basically it is not a very good mechanical protective coating and is normally
applied over a strong base coat.
Yacht antifouling systems are a lot softer than ship antifouling as the water flow (to abrade the coating) is substantially less.
So unless your building a DUKW, its no good for you. Stick to a high build zinc loaded primer and it will last for ages. As always surface preparation
is the key to good coatings.
Quote Lord Kelvin
“Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in race horses and women.”
Quote Richard Lee
"and cars"
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coozer
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 12:00 PM |
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Thanks chaps, I live and learn!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 12:10 PM |
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Heh Steve,
Had me wondering where you'd be parking your yacht there for a moment!
Snow gone now , off Ninjaing this afternoon
atb
Mike
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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Irony
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| posted on 16/1/10 at 12:22 PM |
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jotamastic 87
I used the 2 pack undercoat Jotamastic 87 on my chassis and other parts. Coupled with eithered Hardtop Flexi or there other tops coats gives a
supposed 20 year guarrantee. I sounds exspensive but to do a proper job with Hammerite you need a lot (etch undercoat, finish etc) and the cost adds.
I bought it from shepard Marine. Google them. They paint every from mining equipment to oil rigs with it.
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