blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:39 PM |
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whats the best way to remove this?
need to replace the flange, but i don't know how i'll get in to cut the old one off...
won't be able to get in with a grinder disc. band saw could be a possibility but risk making a bik mistake.
i MUST not lose any length on the header pipes.
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:41 PM |
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hammer
Craig
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:42 PM |
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helpful. it is welded on remember 
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:43 PM |
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Why won't you be able to cut it off with a cutting disc???
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jacko
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:44 PM |
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Cut the back plate up with a cutting disc and whittle it away
I would tack weld a bar across the pipes to stop them moving apart
Graham
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:44 PM |
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ah im in a bad mood from all this cramming im trying to do for my interview so I've been winding people up all evening sorry.
If you cant use the usual powertools then maybe youre looking at a hacksaw with lots of blades and quite a bit of blood/sweat?
Craig
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Why won't you be able to cut it off with a cutting disc???
i'd only be able to get at the welds along the top, i wouldn't be able to get the grinder in between the pipes, and definitely not the
underside of the pipes
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:49 PM |
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How about a Dremmel or similar with a tiny cutting disk
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Cut the back plate up with a cutting disc and whittle it away
I would tack weld a bar across the pipes to stop them moving apart
Graham
was thinking about welding a brace across it. then i wondered how much an exhaust builder like simpson for example would charge to do it for me?
craig, hacksaw might take me months on stainless 
i'll set about it with thin cutting discs in the grinder, see how close i can get in without actually starting it
how far are the pipes likely to spring? i can handle about 2mm or so... the pipes are a fair bit bigger than the exhaust ports on the head
[Edited on 14/4/10 by blakep82]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:55 PM |
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Do you know anyone who's got a reciprocating saw like this?
Machine Mart
saw
They cut reasonably well with the correct blade - not 100% accurate, but not bad.
Otherwise I'd buy a number of good-quality hacksaw blades, mount 1 in the frame at 90 degrees to normal (just rotate the blade holders) and get
stuck in. A bit of cutting fluid or paste will help things along.
[Edited on 14/4/10 by David Jenkins]
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 08:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Do you know anyone who's got a reciprocating saw like this?
[img]http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/medium/06/060113151.jpg?[/img]
They cut reasonably well with the correct blade - not 100% accurate, but not bad.
sadly not. could have a word with the guy who just rebuilt the axle, as he had to have a little machining done on the drive shafts, maybe whoever did
that has something? perhaps milling on the cylinder head side of the flange, through to the weld would be the neatest way?
or even if i can get round the top and sides of the weld, then maybe the bottom can be bent til it cracks? (not ideal...)
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Otherwise I'd buy a number of good-quality hacksaw blades, mount 1 in the frame at 90 degrees to normal (just rotate the blade holders) and get
stuck in. A bit of cutting fluid or paste will help things along.
hmm, might work too, but stainless would be hard work wouldn't it?
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:02 PM |
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If the port spaceing is correct can you not make an adapter plate if you can't cut it up..
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:02 PM |
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Do it on the band saw or get a reciprocating one. Ive got an air fed reciprocating saw, and its perfect for jobs like this.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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55ant
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:04 PM |
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horizontal band saw gets my vote.
away from cars, now cycling and building TT bikes
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whitestu
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:14 PM |
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A good quality hacksaw blade and some elbow grease is the locost way. Think of all the calories you'll burn off!
Stu
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:17 PM |
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I must be missing something, you'd get almost all the way through with a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder. Prob get all the way through if it looks
like mine (Minus the guard) and then of not, just finish the last bit with a decent blade'd hacksaw - you'd get through it in not time...
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RazMan
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:26 PM |
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A large diameter cutting wheel should get most of it
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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indykid
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:45 PM |
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as has been said, why can't you make an adaptor plate?
tom
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by indykid
as has been said, why can't you make an adaptor plate?
tom
the plate's are very different, all the bolt holes don't line up, and with 'extentions' welded around the edges, it would be
difficult to get a seal. and i'f i was to weld a new flange onto the one already there, then the exhaust won't fit in the transmission
tunnel. beleive me, this is the only way to do it. and i'm not bodging it by welding another plate onto the back of it
just been out to try and set about it. Steve, it might work, its tight to get in the middle two pipes, but hopefully shouldn't be
'impossible'.
the spacing is pretty much the same as the red top, by the looks of things, it may be very slightly different, so if they spring out a little it might
be a good thing. the middle 2 pipes are correct, but the outer two are very slightly different, and ideally should be corrected.
i'll try it with the grinder and see how i go. nervous... don't want to ruin it!
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 09:55 PM |
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Blake come over this side and we will cut it shut it and weld the new plate on.
Even courier it over then come and collect it
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 10:00 PM |
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ah nice one  where are you exactly? sort of perth way? lol
edit: Kirkcaldy in fact. nice not really toooooo far
reason why it can't be spaced any differently (meant to explain in the last one) is that, currently, the gearbox is in, but not sitting straight
down the tunnel. the gearbox mount is maybe 1" out. the gearbox hits the exhaust, and the exhaust hits the tunnel. so you can see it need to be
spot on.
[Edited on 14/4/10 by blakep82]
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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daviep
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 11:35 PM |
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9" angle grinder - less than 5 minutes.
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t16turbotone
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| posted on 15/4/10 at 07:25 AM |
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If it was me, i would weld a piece of s/steel to old flange so i could clamp it in horizontal bandsaw vice, then let the bandsaw do the job...send it
to me if you get stuck
tony
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/4/10 at 08:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
9" angle grinder - less than 5 minutes.
That will do it easily with a new blade on, or a Stihl saw with a metal cutting blade.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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