coyoteboy
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:44 PM |
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Matching panel shapes when fillering
While returning my tin-top to the road I'm trying to filler a scrape in the rear arch. The other arch is flawless and I've been trying to
mirror it onto the the other side with varying success. I have got the arch shape correct (not hard) but the arch is a wide-body style so fairly
bulbous. I've tried using a contour gauge and while it allows me to get the shape of the edge right I subsequently realised the whole edge may
be displaced a tad due to the whole thing being shoved in a bit. The contour gauge is only 6" long.
I'm thinking my next plan is to get the major shape using car cutouts at set heights up the panel, then use the contour gauge to finalise the
curves.
Anyone with experience?
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mad4x4
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:21 AM |
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What about measuring from the chassis to the panel edge on both sides or middle of car to Edge of panel using a stright edge head up aginst with a
spirit level.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:46 AM |
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The chassis is unfortunately a non-symmetrical monocoque arrangement so the best I could do is measure to the suspension components, and even so
that'll be a bit variable - I think +-1 degree would lead to +-2mm on the body. I'm starting to think the only way is sequential templates
progressing up the wing but I'd hoped there was a simple trick I was missing. I'm very much learning with respect to bodywork!
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Fred W B
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 06:42 PM |
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quote:
the only way is sequential templates progressing up the wing
True dat, unless you are good enough to do it by eye - I'm not, and I've spent several years trying to get panels symmetrical.....
Mark the panels (on both sides) with positions from a datum point, make templates to match the good side and mirror them to the other side. It helps
a lot to make the templates fit either dead horizontial or vertical, then position them with the aid of a spirit level. Make sure the car is sitting
dead level, though.
Another trick - when making the templates (I use hardboard), cut roughly to shape, then put a pencil with a spacer against the panel and draw along
the template, then cut to this line to get the fit right.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 28/3/11 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:10 PM |
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Cheers for that. Yep, I was going to move up from the plastic trim in equal spaces with a spirit level. Should be fun.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 02:13 PM |
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Well in the end I tried the best I could with bits of card and edge profile shapes and this is the best I could manage - looks about right now! Just a
few other scraps to sort out before a topcoat, remove all plastics and spray!
(the "before" was a bit of a mess, it had been crunched into a gate by a previous owner and then left to rot for 7 years so was mostly
rusty mangled mess, I rebuilt it with steel angle, seam welded it all together, ground it off and fillered as required)
GT-Four rear quarter repair by j.buckle, on
Flickr]
[Edited on 23/4/11 by coyoteboy]
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 08:59 PM |
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I think that anyone who can see both sides of the car at the same time has some seriously strange eyesight and so I don't worry too much about
these things 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I think that anyone who can see both sides of the car at the same time has some seriously strange eyesight and so I don't worry too much about
these things
Just don't park next to the same model of car.
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