FASTdan
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posted on 14/6/11 at 04:54 PM |
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240v Flat Bed Linishers
Can anyone suggest a decent one? All I can seem to find is the small 'clark' types attached to a grinding wheel. I'm after something
with a bed at least 400mm long and ideally 6" wide (ie the standard 900ish long belts).
A 2nd hand industrial one would be nice but of course there's the whole 3ph problem to overcome with those.
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designer
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posted on 14/6/11 at 05:03 PM |
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I use a Machine Mart Disc/Belt sander for metal. It's good and has lasted years.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cs4-6d-belt-and-disc-sander/path/belt-disc-sanders-2
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FASTdan
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posted on 14/6/11 at 05:15 PM |
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hmmm good call - not sure how I've missed that one! seems to fit the bill - whats the length of the flat area of the belt? presumably somewhere
in the 400mm region?
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David Jenkins
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posted on 14/6/11 at 05:50 PM |
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Please note that it's for wood, plastic and non-ferrous metal.
This implies that it's unsuitable for steel (probably because it can't deal with the hot sparks).
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FASTdan
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posted on 14/6/11 at 06:07 PM |
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ah that could be why i've dismissed it in the past - however it would be for alu use, although its the usual case of 'you say that
now' and in 6 months time you need another to do ferrous.
I've not quite got my head around what separates the wood ones from the steel? aside from perhaps the overall 'sturdiness'? How does
a belt sander need 'deal' with hot sparks?
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 14/6/11 at 06:34 PM |
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big brother of the above unit
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cs6-9bd-belt-disc-sander
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David Jenkins
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posted on 14/6/11 at 09:20 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by FASTdan
I've not quite got my head around what separates the wood ones from the steel? aside from perhaps the overall 'sturdiness'? How does
a belt sander need 'deal' with hot sparks?
Belt sanders designed for steel are designed to direct the sparks to somewhere where they won't do any harm - usually some form of cup or bucket
just below where the belt goes round the spindle. Also, everything is just that much more solid, and able to take the extra 'push' and
heat from grinding steel.
Also, on a more practical note, they have some sort of solid fence or rest to support the work - tougher than you'd need for lesser materials.
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hughpinder
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posted on 15/6/11 at 07:16 AM |
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Is this the sort of thing??
http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/cat_leaf.php?id=8119
I've had a few good tools from g and m.
Regards
Hugh
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David Jenkins
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posted on 15/6/11 at 07:49 AM |
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That's certainly an industrial-sized beast! It doesn't say whether it's for wood or metal, except that the word
'linisher' strongly implies that it's for metalworking (if it was for wood then it would be called a 'belt sander' ).
Almost certainl for any material, but best to confirm with G&M if it takes your fancy...
And don't do what a friend of mine allegedly did... spent the morning sanding some wood, then did some steel linishing in the afternoon -
without emptying the dust collection box. Got through a couple of fire extinguishers, apparently...
[Edited on 15/6/11 by David Jenkins]
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hughpinder
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posted on 15/6/11 at 10:12 AM |
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I guess its a metal one, as they hve different ones in the 'woodworking' section!
Regards
Hugh
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designer
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posted on 15/6/11 at 03:56 PM |
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quote:
I use a Machine Mart Disc/Belt sander for metal. It's good and has lasted years.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cs4-6d-belt-and-disc-sander/path/belt-disc-sanders-2
I use it on steel too, it's OK, don't apply too much pressure and the belts and discs last, and the disc is brilliant for finishing
angles.
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Fred W B
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posted on 15/6/11 at 05:39 PM |
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I also use a similar one, and its fine (even deburring steel) as long as you dont lean on it too hard, which can stall the motor.
Use it at least weekly, and have had no trouble, except having to replace the switch once and "dedust" it internally ocassionally.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 15/6/11 by Fred W B]
[Edited on 15/6/11 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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