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Author: Subject: Cut off saws and mitre saws
Paul (Notts)

posted on 18/3/12 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
Cut off saws and mitre saws

Sorting the garage out at the moment so that I have everything ready to start the Terrapin Chassis ( still not decided on the engine ).

I have been looking at Cut off saws and mitre saws to make cutting the chassis tubes quicker. The problem is I don’t know much about them and cant decide what’s best to get.

First inclination was towards a Rage 3 mitre saw as it seemed to do everything I would need. BUT some of the reviews indicate that its not very accurate e.g. Its 90 deg cut position is 89 deg.


What’s the best saw to get for 90 deg cuts and angle cuts for square and round tube?

Max price around £200 -£250 mark

Thanks

Paul

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daniel mason

posted on 18/3/12 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
theres an ebay seller who sells used rage 3's (ex demos). i bought one and it was brand new,never used and blade was new. it only cost me £85 too. its superb but ive not checked whether its accurate to 1 deree over 90. i've been cutting exhaust pipes and its brilliant. really really god in fact. 1850w motor i think so it packs a punch.






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Minicooper

posted on 18/3/12 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
My rage chop saw cuts superbly, it's accurate and very quick. You will never notice 1 degree

Cheers
David

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Fred W B

posted on 18/3/12 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
See discussion here

Cheers

Fred W B

[Edited on 18/3/12 by Fred W B]





You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.

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Paul (Notts)

posted on 19/3/12 at 06:29 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers.

Paul






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nick205

posted on 19/3/12 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
I have a Rage saw too. It cuts cleanly and accurately, but you need to clamp metal work pieces firmly or the blade can jump a bit.






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hughpinder

posted on 19/3/12 at 09:15 AM Reply With Quote
I have a metal cutting band saw, angle grinders with 1mm cutting disks and a metal cutting mitre saw. For 1 inch 16g tube/metric equivalent, I stick it in the vice and use the hacksaw, as its quicker, quieter, it doesnt produce a red hot piece of metal so you can start the next activity instantly, and doesnt throw so much muck/metal swarf around the workshop. I alway us a squirt of 'tapping and drilling fluid' on the hacksaw blade (cheapest you can get) as it reduces the effort enormously. One of the reasons its quicker is that you can adjust for slightly out of alignment clamping in the vice as you saw, wheras all the 'proper' machines need to be much more carefully checked that the tube hasn't moved during clamping - producing an out of alignment cut or wrong length (especially if you have a 6m lenth of box sticking out the workshop door!)
For heavier tube the advantages swing the other way (hence all the equipment I've aquired).
If I was only making kit cars I'd buy a hacksaw, decent blades (I use 2*24tpi blades for my whole chassis), cutting spray and put the spare £180 towards something else (Decent vice, better mig/bench drill/bench grinder.....)!
Regards
Hugh

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Paul (Notts)

posted on 19/3/12 at 05:09 PM Reply With Quote
Right.....

decided on a new hacksaw and blades + set square ( adjustable )

rest of the money will buy me some more steel!!!

Thanks for all the input.

Paul

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nick205

posted on 19/3/12 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
I have a metal cutting band saw, angle grinders with 1mm cutting disks and a metal cutting mitre saw. For 1 inch 16g tube/metric equivalent, I stick it in the vice and use the hacksaw, as its quicker, quieter, it doesnt produce a red hot piece of metal so you can start the next activity instantly, and doesnt throw so much muck/metal swarf around the workshop. I alway us a squirt of 'tapping and drilling fluid' on the hacksaw blade (cheapest you can get) as it reduces the effort enormously. One of the reasons its quicker is that you can adjust for slightly out of alignment clamping in the vice as you saw, wheras all the 'proper' machines need to be much more carefully checked that the tube hasn't moved during clamping - producing an out of alignment cut or wrong length (especially if you have a 6m lenth of box sticking out the workshop door!)
For heavier tube the advantages swing the other way (hence all the equipment I've aquired).
If I was only making kit cars I'd buy a hacksaw, decent blades (I use 2*24tpi blades for my whole chassis), cutting spray and put the spare £180 towards something else (Decent vice, better mig/bench drill/bench grinder.....)!
Regards
Hugh



Fair comments!

I bought my Rage saw mainly for wood work to achieve speed, accuracy and repeatability, but you're right on using a good hacksaw for simple 1" box steel.






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