w4lrus
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 11:56 AM |
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12mm to 1/2"
I want to enlarge my suspension mounts from 12mm to 1/2" so that the suspension can be fitted with no play (the wishbones all have 1/2"
bushes)
I was originally going to use a 1/2" drill, but I am now a little concerned that this may not be controlled enough and potentially drill too big
a hole. Should I be using a hand reamer, and should I use a tapered or straight reamer bit? Or is there another technique or tool that I can use? Or
will my original idea be fine?
Thanks in advance for your help
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snapper
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 12:37 PM |
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It's only 0.7mm, gentle with a drill should do it
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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shaft
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 12:52 PM |
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Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
my opinion might be wrong you know...
My Zero Build Pics
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Mad Dave
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 01:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by shaft
Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
I have to agree too. The drill would not centre itself and the hole wouldn't be round, and would probably break it's tips. An alternative
to the reamer could be one of these, a step drill like these
I have a few of them and if treated right will be money well spent
Dave
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w4lrus
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 01:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by shaft
Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
Do you think that I will be able to 'get started' with a straight reamer, i.e. will they be able to find purchase in the 12mm hole. I have
never used one before, but i guess it it is like using a tap? They certainly appear a lot cheaper than the tapered hand reamers! I could go for a step
drill, but I was wondering if the material thickness is over the max allowed for the bits linked to by Mad Dave - I will need to check when I get home
later.
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Mad Dave
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 01:41 PM |
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quote:
Do you think that I will be able to 'get started' with a straight reamer, i.e. will they be able to find purchase in the 12mm hole.
I have never used one before, but i guess it it is like using a tap? They certainly appear a lot cheaper than the tapered hand reamers! I could go for
a step drill, but I was wondering if the material thickness is over the max allowed for the bits linked to by Mad Dave - I will need to check when I
get home later.
I only have metric step drills and they can definitely cut 3mm maybe 5mm max. Your brackets will probably be 3mm thick
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w4lrus
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 01:41 PM |
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Will some thing like this do the job?
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Chippy
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 01:44 PM |
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I drilled mine out with a half inch drill, I just cut a very tight fitting hardwood block to fit beween the bracket ears, worked a treat. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Fatgadget
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 02:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
#
Surely that will create a tapered hole?
A reamer would be tool.Used to have an adjustable one that was ace for those sorts of applications.
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w4lrus
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 02:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fatgadget
quote:
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
#
Surely that will create a tapered hole?
A reamer would be tool.Used to have an adjustable one that was ace for those sorts of applications.
Like this?
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shaft
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 02:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fatgadget
quote:
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
#
Surely that will create a tapered hole?
A reamer would be tool.Used to have an adjustable one that was ace for those sorts of applications.
Different types of tapered reamer. Your thinking of a full taper
for machine use to produce Morse Taper holes for example.
I haven't looked at the link above as I'm on my phone reading this.
The type I mean is the tapered lead hand cut type. They are parallel
after a short tapered lead.
my opinion might be wrong you know...
My Zero Build Pics
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 05:23 PM |
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My fury suffered this all the way through - 12mm bolts and half inch bushes. Bloody dangerous because it means the holes can go oval and make
everything sloppy.
As has been suggested above by others, I bought a tapered reamer from ebay (non morse taper otherwise your drill can't grip it).
A tapered reamer will centre itself into the hole as you go and you're also best buying some spray-cutting oil (£7 a tin).
It made the world of difference - that 0.7mm. You can see the air gap and hear the rattle.
You can ream the holes with a cordless hand-drill (I did on the car) but if you get a chance to use a pillar-drill and a drill-vice. It will give you
the accuracy. If you can get your car into a drill-vice I would be impressed.
Happy to discuss further; I've been just where you were.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 05:31 PM |
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A straight reamer will have a slight taper at the beginning to help it start - about 5 - 10% of its length. You will have to start it as straight as
possible to avoid damaging the cutting edges.
A light cutting oil will help - even WD40 is better than nothing.
Tracy Tools would be a good place to buy what you need - cheap and quick.
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 05:35 PM |
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see rule 8 over here - it's the only way to do it.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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w4lrus
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 08:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
My fury suffered this all the way through - 12mm bolts and half inch bushes. Bloody dangerous because it means the holes can go oval and make
everything sloppy.
As has been suggested above by others, I bought a tapered reamer from ebay (non morse taper otherwise your drill can't grip it).
A tapered reamer will centre itself into the hole as you go and you're also best buying some spray-cutting oil (£7 a tin).
It made the world of difference - that 0.7mm. You can see the air gap and hear the rattle.
You can ream the holes with a cordless hand-drill (I did on the car) but if you get a chance to use a pillar-drill and a drill-vice. It will give you
the accuracy. If you can get your car into a drill-vice I would be impressed.
Happy to discuss further; I've been just where you were.
All the brackets are on the car, and Raw put the bushes in the wishbones, so I am reaming by hand on the car
Is this what I need?
Love the rules BTW, can't disagree with any of them 
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 10/9/12 at 08:53 PM |
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That looks remarkably like mine - the tip has a slight taper to get it into the hole - email the seller to be sure. I think mine has a 0.5 or 1 mm
taper.
The rules are a work in development, but glad you like them. I have to add something about time not working the same in the garage, and a colour chart
for identifying injuries - if it isn't red and flowing, you've not really hurt yourself, etc.
by all means suggest more, and I'll write them up and credit the suggestion.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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scudderfish
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| posted on 11/9/12 at 07:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
and a colour chart for identifying injuries - if it isn't red and flowing, you've not really hurt yourself, etc.
So that thing on the back of your neck doesn't count then?
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 11/9/12 at 10:56 AM |
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You're right. The rules have prevented me from making a serious issue of my burn. Taking the Micky out of myself is allowed?
, but I can't call it serious
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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alan87
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| posted on 25/9/12 at 10:42 PM |
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W4lrus,
I will be doing this very soon, so am interested in what you use in the end. Have you found a decent source for the 1/2" bolts yet? Looking
around Namrick seemed to be the best place for them.
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w4lrus
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| posted on 26/9/12 at 07:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alan87
W4lrus,
I will be doing this very soon, so am interested in what you use in the end. Have you found a decent source for the 1/2" bolts yet? Looking
around Namrick seemed to be the best place for them.
Hey Alan
I used the reamer in the end, which I purchased from eBay. I had to do it all by hand, using a spanner to turn it, as it was a bit tight some of the
mounts and I could not get a tap wrench in. It took me a couple of hours to do all of the suspension and engine mounts. Very pleased with the
result
I got the bolts from Namrick IIRC
Tom
[Edited on 26/9/12 by w4lrus]
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