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Author: Subject: Casting and Drilling lead - anything I should know
Ivan

posted on 15/12/12 at 10:21 AM Reply With Quote
Casting and Drilling lead - anything I should know

I need a lead hammer to use for the knock-on spinners for my new Cobra wheels - I am having difficulty sourcing one in South Africa and as I have a few kilos of lead lying around I thought I would cast one but to attach the handle I need to drill a 12mm hole through the head.

Do I just drill at low speed using conventional steel bits and lubricant or are there some tricks or potential problems that I should be aware of.

I was just planning to use a piece of 50mm pipe with one end welded shut as both the mould and crucible - any potential problems with that idea.

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Simon

posted on 15/12/12 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
1 Make sure there are no potential leaks, molten lead very fluid and will find holes.

2 Lead holds temp for quite a while so be patient.

3 Using pipe is good idea, but you'll want some lead proud of pipe for hammering, weld handle to steel pipe, don't drill lead for handle, you'll never secure.
You can put the flame directly on lead to melt it, saves heating the crucible to melt (but slightly irrelevant as you'll be keeping anyway).

4 Obviously, hand, eye and body protection.

ATB

Simon.

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David Jenkins

posted on 15/12/12 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
Why not put a 12mm steel bar across the middle of your mould? You can knock it out after it has cooled.

Another safety warning - make sure that the mould is ABSOLUTELY dry before casting, as any water will instantly turn to steam and molten lead will be ejected with a lot of force (seen it done!).



[Edited on 15/12/12 by David Jenkins]






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snakebelly

posted on 15/12/12 at 11:06 AM Reply With Quote
And obviously don't inhales the fumes
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theconrodkid

posted on 15/12/12 at 11:15 AM Reply With Quote
what Mr Jenkins said about being dry,molten lead does burn,ask me how i know





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Simon

posted on 15/12/12 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
If the pipe is to be used as both mould an crucible, then when lead scrap is put in and then melted, crucible will dry as heating process starts. Good practice otherwise.

ATB

Simon

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britishtrident

posted on 15/12/12 at 12:06 PM Reply With Quote
As already posted you can just pour the molten lead into the mould and cast in a a steel shaft

However you probably can't buy a lead hammer because they have been supplant by "Dead Blow Hammers" which are tough SRS plastic hammers filled with steel shot.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer





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blakep82

posted on 15/12/12 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
interesting stuff, but why does it have to be lead? can it be a rubber or leather mallet?





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MakeEverything

posted on 15/12/12 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
interesting stuff, but why does it have to be lead? can it be a rubber or leather mallet?


+1, i would use a hide mallet.





Kindest Regards,
Richard.

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designer

posted on 15/12/12 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
Hide faced, like these here:

http://toolexchange.com.au/Hammers-Soft-Face.html

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britishtrident

posted on 15/12/12 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
For this application it really has to be a fairly hefty hammer --- 1kg/2lbs hide and ordinary soft face plastic mallets are a bit too girly, hence why I suggested a dead blow hammer.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
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designer

posted on 15/12/12 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
I have a hide faced hammer which is a lot heavier than a limp hammer!
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MikeRJ

posted on 15/12/12 at 05:40 PM Reply With Quote
You could always buy/make a Jaguar, Aston or MG, Healey wire wheel spinner saver to protect your spinners.
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clanger

posted on 15/12/12 at 08:01 PM Reply With Quote
another vote for dead blow hammer............one of my favourite tools
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paulf

posted on 15/12/12 at 09:56 PM Reply With Quote
When I served my apprenticeship in a tool room they used to make lead mallets by casting the lead around the handle which was usually a bit of tube or solid bar with a cross pin in it.I always used to use a copper faced mallet for the knock offs on my mgb.
Paul

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