Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Diagnose my swarf please!
jps

posted on 21/5/15 at 12:12 PM Reply With Quote
Diagnose my swarf please!

Not strictly car related - but one that LCBers will be able to answer no doubt...

Last weekend I had to drill an 8mm hole in some steel tubing - using my handheld power drill.

I have some brand new drill bits (http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-hss-drill-bit-set-170pcs/59953) - and used a 4mm for a pilot - and an 8mm afterwards to go out to the width I wanted

The swarf was extremely 'bitty' - basically coming out as chips of metal.

I am under the impression that it's best when the swarf comes out in long threads - presumably indicating a nice even, smooth, cut is taking place.

Am I right - and if so - what did I do wrong?

[Edited on 21/5/15 by jps]

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
coozer

posted on 21/5/15 at 12:15 PM Reply With Quote
Mond





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
jps

posted on 21/5/15 at 12:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Mond


I've edited mine! Your turn!!!

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
loggyboy

posted on 21/5/15 at 12:21 PM Reply With Quote
I suspect it was the hand held drill, you cant keep then in the same place like you can with a pillar or similar.





Mistral Motorsport

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
coozer

posted on 21/5/15 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
He he...

Drills just need to go at the correct speed for drill size and metal type.

Wouldn't worry as long as the hole is what you wanted, generally the harder the steel the more chipping the swarf is.

Hard to get the right steady speed with a hand drill.

Only time I get long smooth swarf is on the lathe and occasionally getting the right speed on the pillar drill.

Drilling stainless steels usually ends up with red hot chips flying all over cause its much harder than mild steel.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
MP3C

posted on 21/5/15 at 03:57 PM Reply With Quote
I don't think it would help greatly with the drill bits you was using. I had a set of those and they were terrible. The only good thing about them was you could change to another one once it went blunt or snapped which is quite common. I purchased my self a set of Heller HSS Cobalt drill bits and they are as sharp as the day I got them and not snapped a single one and usually get the spiral swarf even drilling stainless steel. Like coozer said though as long as you have the hole you wanted then its all good.

Matt

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 21/5/15 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
On a slightly different front I think that Ø4 to Ø8mm is quite a big jump for the final hole (if you are trying to get a nice finish anyway) I would have gone Pilot Ø4, Ø7 and then finished with a Ø8mm





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk

callan@t89.co.uk

NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
mcerd1

posted on 22/5/15 at 08:07 AM Reply With Quote
As above better drill bits will probably make the most difference

Either really good quality HSS drills or decent quality cobalt ones will be good enough for most things, but bare in mind that different materials have different recommended point angles and styles too...


making sure you use the correct speed and feed to suit the drill bit and material is always important - if you were doing it with a CNC drilling machine this would be easy to control, but with a hand drill you just have get a feel for what's right...
Any decent workshop data book will give you drilling speeds and feed rates if you want to look them up.

Also don't forget about cutting fluid (depending on what your drilling) it acts as both a coolant and lubricant - even WD40 is better than nothing if you overheating the drill bits

[Edited on 22/5/2015 by mcerd1]





-

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.