rusty nuts
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 05:24 PM |
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scotchbrite warning
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
you learn something new every day
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chillis
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 06:29 PM |
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Most abrasives whether scotchbrite or emery cloth use aluminium oxide, what is important is to throroughly clean all parts afterward, preferably in a
hot wash. As for re-man engines the killer is the glass beads they use to clean everythihg with, as they are much harder to remove than scotchbrite.
Best of all don't use scotchbrite or any blast media for cleaning but good old elbow grease and throroughly wash out.
Never under estimate the ingenuity of an idiot!
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benchmark51
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 06:37 PM |
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I have never used scotchbrite in an engine build. Use scotch cloth for hard to get at places on bodywork, around hinges ect. 1200 grit
wet'n'dry and paraffin cleans carbon from bearing caps and gasket faces. All cleaning is done and a final wash before assembly anyway. Not
had a problem in near 50 years.
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Toprivetguns
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 07:44 PM |
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All rebuild parts need a thorough deep clean after rework.
If your leaving abrasive material behind after cleaning a surface your not performing the job correctly.
I recommend a super hotwash followed by isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease or oil.
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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LBMEFM
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 07:47 PM |
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Worrying that about Scotchbrite, always used fine wet and dry with paraffin for engine rebuilds myself without problems over the last 45 years or so.
Makes you think though.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 08:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Toprivetguns
All rebuild parts need a thorough deep clean after rework.
If your leaving abrasive material behind after cleaning a surface your not performing the job correctly.
I recommend a super hotwash followed by isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease or oil.
Someone obviously didn't read the link
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Toprivetguns
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 08:36 PM |
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I read the link and found it very interesting - Scotchbrite may leave 40 microns of dust after use, however if said surface is cleaned and all other
areas covered correctly, I don't see a problem. The link mentions dust funnelling down oil back passages.... This will cause issues!
I'm my experience it's all about prep and cleaning - If oilways aren't sufficiently taped and you allow dust/debris from abrasive
materials to enter delicate parts of the engine to me that's poor practice.
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by Toprivetguns
All rebuild parts need a thorough deep clean after rework.
If your leaving abrasive material behind after cleaning a surface your not performing the job correctly.
I recommend a super hotwash followed by isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease or oil.
Someone obviously didn't read the link
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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JeffHs
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| posted on 20/8/16 at 09:41 PM |
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When I rebuilt the Auster engine the engineer responsible for signing it off told me to use Turco Transport. This is hideously expensive but a magic
solution to cleaning. Put a piston in a tank overnight then wash off with water in the morning, just a tickle with a brush and it gleams like new
without scraping out the ring grooves.Same with exhaust valves, dissolves carbon and paint. No residue after water wash. Wrecks your lungs and makes
your hair fall out but otherwise bomb proof!
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perksy
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| posted on 21/8/16 at 09:32 AM |
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Good read that
Think ANY debris in an engine is bad news though and as said above the most important thing is to clean everything correctly (and not put too much
faith in the oil filter)
Gasket sealant is another thing to be concerned about and I'm sure alot of us have seen that 'floating' around in an oil sump at one
time or another...
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