britishtrident
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 12:31 PM |
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Laser Tracking tool DIY plans
Laser Tracking tool plans
first installment dosen't show all the details of wheel prongs -- trad 3 views with full dimensions to follow in a few days.
Protype works well and is highly accurate
Material require
25x25 RHS
15mm plywood
9"x9" mirror tyle
Pocket laser level from Woolies.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 12:48 PM |
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This was the original concept drawing I did just befoe xmas.
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oliwb
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 12:55 PM |
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All looks very interesting....how do you decide the scale ie for degrees??? Surely the wider the track the bigger the gaps between the degrees eg
small track - 1 2, wider track - 1 2
Not sure if that makes sense or not.....Cheers Oli.
[Edited on 26/1/06 by oliwb] - why wont it edit properly!! should be about 4 spaces between the second 1 & 2......Oli.
[Edited on 26/1/06 by oliwb]
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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ecosse
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 01:04 PM |
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Looks good 
Questions as per Oliwb and out of interest what should a seven be set to, toe in, toe out or parallel?
Cheers
Alex
PS
Any good sources for the laser?
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oliwb
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 01:26 PM |
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Think about 1 degree negative camber (closer at top), dunno about castor - as much as you can i think....and a couple or less degrees toe-in I
believe...I'm sure someone will correct me if thats b*ll*cks....Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 01:29 PM |
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Left side unit --- rightside and details to folow.
Re scale easy measure in mm and do trig -- easy to work out gauge factor for any cars being worked on.
Locost typically are set in the range zero to 1/16" toe-in across the axle.
After being zeroed before each use error at zero degrees toe-in is very close to zero % as the reflected laser returns back along it original path.
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MikeR
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 01:48 PM |
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how do you zero in the laser? do you just put both sides together & would this take out any inaccuracy in the building of the jig?
apart from guess work, how do you figure out which wheel to adjust?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 01:59 PM |
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Thats it -- simple --- zero set should be checked before each use.
Dunlop made a similar tool using a periscope/tellescope but using a laser does away with the need for optics.
Sealey do some similar
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc.9/category.200/it.A/id.5156/.f
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JB
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| posted on 26/1/06 at 05:09 PM |
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Very good idea, I like it!
However to zero it you really want the lazer and mirror as far apart as possible. Therefore use a length of bar or broom handle etc to ensure the
distances between each side are the same.
John
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DEAN C.
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| posted on 29/1/06 at 10:21 AM |
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I like it,the simplest ideas are the best.
I have been looking at the different builders lasers in the DIY stores for ages to try and work something out,wel done.
It seems to be a mixture of the older and newer types of alignment tools used in garages.
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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