NS Dev
|
posted on 2/5/06 at 11:14 PM |
|
|
Another TIG question!!
Yet another question!
Finally got the machine fired up for the first time this evening.
Had a bit of sorting to do to get the torch water flow going properly, blowing out water lines etc but all seems ok now.
Just one remaining problem, once in every, say, 5 or 6 turn-on's of the machine at it's main switch, it pops the main trip feeding the
garage. It's a 50 amp trip so shouldn't really be blowing!
Once the machine is switched on it runs fine with no problems, but it's annoying that it keeps blowing the trip!
Any electricians with any cunning ideas!?
It mentions in the manual about if the main fuse/trip keeps blowing then there is a faulty thyristor, but if that were the case surely it would always
blow the trip, not just sometimes??
I have a feeling it may be just the inrush current for the huge transformer in the machine, but surely 50 amps is a lot!
any ideas??
cheers
Nat
|
|
|
907
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 12:23 AM |
|
|
Annoying that isn't it.
I've got a MAG welder at work that blows the trip about twice a day.
You get set up, holding something in place, pull the trigger..... click, nothing.
Have you blown it out with the air line?
Take all the panels off and give it a blow job.
I had a Murex that used to weld grinding dust to the HF board. Took the mounting board
off and cleaned it with a sanding disc. It became an annual job.
Tig welders are funny things.
Your current output (+) comes out of the machine, straight onto a metal bench,
which stands on a damp concrete floor.
It's a miracle they work at all.
IMHO, earth leakage trips are too sensitive for welders anyway.
atb
Paul G
|
|
NS Dev
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 08:01 AM |
|
|
Yea, blown the machine out, has certainly had a good blow job!!!
Earth leakage rcd has not popped (well it did once but that was cos I forgot to tighten up one of the water cooler connections and everything got a
bit damp underfoot!!!!
The problem goes away completely once the machine main switch is "on" successfully. I used 120 amps on AC and DC and with HF on and no
probs, daren't wind it up much past that until I have some bigger tungstens.
It seems to be just the initial current spike when the transformer switches on.
Nitram has answered me on the anything else thread saying there are 4 different types of mcb and I need the one designed for big inductive loads, a
type "c" or "d" mcb apparently, so I'll investigate that one!
cheers
Nat
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
jono_misfit
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 11:10 AM |
|
|
When it trips, have you already had the machine on and is it warm?
If the windings on the transformer have already got a bit of heat in them could be causing a slight increase in inrush current.
The other answer you got should sort it. Most houses boxes are fitted with B breakers and need swapped for things like larger migs/tigs and motors.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Distribution/Mcb.htm
Heres some info on them.
Jono
|
|
Nick Skidmore
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 12:05 PM |
|
|
This does happen quite a lot with things full of capacitors and coils.
The in-rush of current exceeds that of the breaker and the type B ones (resistive loads) which are what is fitted to most consumer units do trip.
If you go and buy exactly the same make and rated breaker but in type C you will illiminate your nuisance tripping as these are designed for inductive
loads with high in-rush currents.
You should not have to pay any more for a type C than a type B
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
NS Dev
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 12:09 PM |
|
|
Brill, cheers folks, I'll pick one up after work today, Sabel in Hinckley have some on the shelf.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
Wadders
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 03:22 PM |
|
|
Just checked and mines running from a 32amp Type C breaker. no problems so far although iv'e not had it set above about 120amp.
|
|
NS Dev
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 11:08 PM |
|
|
Hurrah, 50 amp type c breaker and no more trips!!
That welder is bloody magic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Expensive but already worth every penny!
I put a bead on some 0.4mm thick stainless, never even a hint of trying to burn through.
Thought I'd go for broke then and paintstrippered a steel beer can and ran a bead on that too!!! Still perfectly smooth at 5-10 amps output!
Absolutely cracking piece of kit!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
907
|
posted on 3/5/06 at 11:28 PM |
|
|
So, lets get this straight.
Ya can't even get a full peno weld on .4 ,
and your so bloomin' tight you weld ya beer cans shut.
Paul G
|
|
NS Dev
|
posted on 4/5/06 at 12:48 AM |
|
|
Yep, sounds aboot reet!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|