02GF74
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 09:13 AM |
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slitting aluminium tube - the update
Those who have been paying attention will know my exhaust can is not SVA complaint and after the "cone" fix failed, I looked at fitting a
tube over the edge.
I initially started with 6 mm tube (5 mm being the min, radius) and after a couple of failed attempts finally have success!! 
When I eventually managed to fit the 6 mm tube, (involved sawing down one side, opening out the slot with a flat bladed screwdrivier, putting a strip
of ali into the slot to stop it closing up when bending it), I found that although the front was ok, my homemade 2.5 mm radius guage would touch on
the top - no good 
So my next attempt was to use 8 mm tube; harder to bend and got a kink in it which meant it would not go on.
So thought, hmmm, I wonder if I can get my MM nibbler in? And found it would cut even curved tubing.
 
bent and slit tube
I made a former out of some loft flooring, bent the tube then nibbled all the way - the cut metal curls up and needs to be removed otherwise the
nibbler has no room work. The advantage of the nibbler is the the tube is undistorted and it so happens that the thickness of the exhaust can edge
is almost the same width as the cut.
 
wooden former
A bit of fettling and on it went!! (need more tubing and do the back side and one more item to cross off the list)
 
trim on can
 
trim on can - side
To finish I'll probably slap on a bit of exhaust pace so it stays on - the different metal expansion rates may cause problems
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ayoungman
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 09:39 AM |
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An alternative solution. Could you borrow a silencer just for the SVA then swop it over afterwards ?
just a thought to save you all this hassle.
"just like that !"
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 09:57 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ayoungman
An alternative solution. Could you borrow a silencer just for the SVA then swop it over afterwards ?
just a thought to save you all this hassle.
good idea, now that I think about it, maybe I should have borrowed a completed car, would have saved all sorts of hassle 
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James
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 11:56 AM |
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Lolocost silencer? Me too.
I just used some rubber 'U' trim.
Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 12/10/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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DavidM
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 12:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Lolocost silencer? Me too.
I just used some rubber 'U' trim.
Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 12/10/06 by James]
Thats what I did too.
David
Proportion is Everything
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 01:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Lolocost silencer? Me too.
I just used some rubber 'U' trim.
Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.
TELL THAT TO THE INSPECTOR BABY!! 
even though mine survived the 30 odd mile trip, it was deemed not durable, and small X put on the form.
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James
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 01:22 PM |
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Oh, ok then!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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lexi
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 08:11 PM |
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You may get reaction between SS and ally.
Remember putting SS penny washer on floor of 109.........it went all powdery and ate the ally. Maybe a welded bead , grind and polish if the tube
don`t last.
Alex
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wilkingj
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 09:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lexi
You may get reaction between SS and ally.
Remember putting SS penny washer on floor of 109.........it went all powdery and ate the ally. Maybe a welded bead , grind and polish if the tube
don`t last.
Alex
Yup.. It will, Its disimmilar metal corrosion.
Put to different metals together, ally and steel, and there is a very tiny electic voltage that is generated between them, This is exactly the way a
thermocouple works, except they engineer it so they can measure the voltage change when the joint temperature changes, and makes a very accutate
temperature probe.
However, when we do it on cars, we dont want this to happen. Look at Older Landrovers, and they have this white powdery "rust" this is
what happens over time. The electric current eats away at the metal, ie you have an anode / cathode, and metal is eaten away. Think of the
Electrolosys cleaning thread on here (forum) or a car battery its the same action, but working in reverse.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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02GF74
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| posted on 16/10/06 at 09:04 AM |
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Thanks to all those concerned by dissimilar metal corrosion.
The materials used and method of fitment has gone through years of research by top international scientists followed by hundreds of hours of testing
so that it is guaranteed to retain its structural integrity until one day after a successful SVA pass. [wink wink]
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Marcus
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| posted on 16/10/06 at 11:25 AM |
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I did the same as you, but used copper pipe. Didn't bother with strip to stop gap closing, just tapped it onto silencer. The intention was to
take it off post SVA, but it's still there 2 years later.
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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