blueshift
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posted on 17/11/07 at 04:51 PM |
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Drill press reccomendations?
After drilling some wobbly holes with my crappy handheld cordless drill, I think I should get a bench drill press to help my fabrication.
It needs to be under 780mm high (so it fits under a shelf).
I want to be able to drill at least 16mm holes with it, does that mean I need a 16mm chuck or can I get away with a smaller one and some of those
drill bits that have a thinner bit to go in the chuck?
I am vaguely aware that it's important to be able to drill slowly for big holes in steel.. not quite sure HOW slowly though.
Any reccomendations? I've had a quick look at what screwfix and machine mart have to offer.
Ta
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meany
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posted on 17/11/07 at 05:26 PM |
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have you a FOCUS DIY near you,
with any luck, its one of those closing down (eventually) (bargains to be had) cant remeber the price ans spec off hand, but seem ok.
http://www.focusdiy.co.uk/
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mad-butcher
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posted on 17/11/07 at 05:27 PM |
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I use one of those £30 odd B & Q ones and a reasonable quality stepped drill
Tony
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meany
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posted on 17/11/07 at 05:38 PM |
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to be honest, mines one of those B&Q ones.
is you verical Dial accurate, because mine isnt, its off centre. but hey, you get what you pay for.
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Wadders
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posted on 17/11/07 at 06:33 PM |
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My recommendation would be splash a bit more cash, and look for something secondhand like a fobco, meddings, etc much better quality than the cheap
chinese crap widely available. If you can find one thats morse taper, then better still.
16mm is asking quite a bit from a bench drill,
most are only 1/4 or 1/3 hp and unless they are back geared the belts tend to slip when drilling big holes.
Al.
Her you go:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fobco-Star-Pillar-Drill_W0QQitemZ110192051276QQihZ001QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Originally posted by blueshift
After drilling some wobbly holes with my crappy handheld cordless drill, I think I should get a bench drill press to help my fabrication.
It needs to be under 780mm high (so it fits under a shelf).
I want to be able to drill at least 16mm holes with it, does that mean I need a 16mm chuck or can I get away with a smaller one and some of those
drill bits that have a thinner bit to go in the chuck?
I am vaguely aware that it's important to be able to drill slowly for big holes in steel.. not quite sure HOW slowly though.
Any reccomendations? I've had a quick look at what screwfix and machine mart have to offer.
Ta
[Edited on 17/11/07 by Wadders]
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Phil.J
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posted on 17/11/07 at 07:29 PM |
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I'm with Wadders. The cheap Chinese machines just aren't rigid enough. The tables flex and your holes end up a mile out.
If you must buy one, try putting a bottle jack underneath the table to stop it bending down under load.
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mad-butcher
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posted on 17/11/07 at 07:54 PM |
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The B & Q one I've got has the chuch on a taper, will quite comfortably drill a 25mm hole in 12mm plate, if you use sharp drills and drill
the hole in stages ( thats why I have a stepped drill bit ) you don't need to force it.
I've been there done that drilling big holes without pilot holes,
As for chinese quality in some respects I agree, But my £90 black and decker grinder burnt out in 18 months my so called inferior £19 replacement has
done 2 years
Tony
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mark chandler
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posted on 17/11/07 at 08:38 PM |
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Defo get a decent old drill from Ebay.
Do not worry about single or three phase, if three phase all you need to do is strap a capacity 22uF maybe 40uF capacity on to make up the third
phase.
The motor will lose a bit of power but will be fine for hobby use.
Easily made up with the extra gears and quality.
Mines an old meddings, cost £40 and is rock solid. I paid to have the motor set up, £15 from a rewind shop, I would not bother anymore with this,
merely buy a handfull of capacitors and try them out.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 17/11/07 by mark chandler]
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David Jenkins
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posted on 17/11/07 at 09:30 PM |
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Whatever you get, make sure that it will take a decent-sized drill bit (1/2" dia minimum) and that it has a good slow speed available.
Some bench drills are sold for woodworking use, and only have a range of high speeds; those intended for metalworking have a broad range from 180-250
rpm up to around 2000 rpm.
I have a Clarke floor-standing one that's reasonable, and my brother has a Record bench one that's got a very nice action - a pleasure to
use.
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v8kid
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posted on 18/11/07 at 07:52 AM |
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There are advantage to having a lower powered motor as when you muck up and the bit jams in the workpiece it will do less damage (to you). Of course
if you never work when you are tired or take short cuts cos you are behint time this will not apply.
Me I'm really glad I've got a low powered press drill.
I'd go with the comments on the lack of rigidity on the cheap ones though.
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Peteff
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posted on 18/11/07 at 10:18 AM |
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The travel on cheap ones is disappointing too. Mine was supposed to be 50mm but will not drill through a 50mm box section in one stroke. I'm
looking for a better one now.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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iank
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posted on 18/11/07 at 10:27 AM |
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I got one from here
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Recontooling-for-nearly-new-Sealey
Quite happy with it.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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blueshift
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posted on 18/11/07 at 03:41 PM |
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The fobco looks nice but it's huge.. 22" deep from front of base to back against the wall, too big for my little workbench.
hmm.. head scratching..
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