James
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:12 PM |
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OT: fix plasterboard to studwall with Gripfill?
Got to build a new stud partition bathroom wall for someone.
The inner surface is to be tiled and will be that concrete based Tileboard but the outer wall will be plasterboard.
Obviously, normally I'd use plasterboard screws to affix the plasterboard to the wooden studs. But that means the wall has to be plastered.
Customer wants to avoid paying for a plasterer. I'm wondering if I could just glue (Gripfill/No more nails) the plasterboard to the wood?
Any help appreciated.... I'm meant to be starting the job tomorrow AM!
Thanks,
James
[Edited on 21/12/07 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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whitestu
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:16 PM |
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I did this with a little bit of plasterboard over a door although I plastered over it.
It hasn't fallen off yet!
Stu
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twybrow
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:17 PM |
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Why would you have to plaster if you use screws? Surely just tile over the recessed screw heads?
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Humbug
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:18 PM |
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Couldn't you just use the screws, screw them in just to below the surface, fill the holes and lightly sand afterwards?
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chrsgrain
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:19 PM |
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Just make sure you've got the plasterboard the right way round and use screws - the head holes can be filled with polyfilla and then painted.
Having said that - gripfill seems to stick most things - just have never done it!
Chris
Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...
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Humbug
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Why would you have to plaster if you use screws? Surely just tile over the recessed screw heads?
I think he means the other side of the wall, i.e. the non-tiled side
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bonzoronnie
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 posted on 21/12/07 at 01:22 PM |
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Gripfill & Plasterboard
I think the building reg's call for a mechanical fixing of plasterboard to wooden studwork.
Gripfill would certainly hold it but probably not the right thig to do.
I'd go for plasterboard nails, loose the heads. Tiny skim of filler over the nail heads.
Ronnie 
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Peteff
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:25 PM |
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They will have to put something on it if they are painting. If they paper it you will see the joins, tell them not to be so tight and get it done
properly.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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twybrow
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:25 PM |
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Ahh, now I got ya....
Yeah, just countersink, then fill, sand and paint. Our office at work is done like that - but it looks functional, not pretty!
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James
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:30 PM |
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Thanks Humbug.
Yeah, inside of wall will be tiled. Outside is to be boarded.
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
They will have to put something on it if they are painting. If they paper it you will see the joins, tell them not to be so tight and get it done
properly.
The 'wall' is only 1 board wide so no joins! 
I only thought of the idea of not plastering having seen my sister's house where the technique is this 'tape jointing' or something.
You use a special machine that lays a really thin layer of plaster over the jointed join. You then only have to paint the plasterboard rather than
plaster it!
Assuming I've understood it right!
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 21/12/07 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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stuart_g
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:35 PM |
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What will you do with any joins in the plasterboard? they are usually taped to stop cracks appearing.
As said before tell them not to be so tight and get it done properly.
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James
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stuart_g
What will you do with any joins in the plasterboard? they are usually taped to stop cracks appearing.
As said before tell them not to be so tight and get it done properly.
The wall is only 1 board wide so no joins!
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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nick205
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 01:54 PM |
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most builders fit plasterboard to brick, block or concrete using the "dot n' dab" method with an adhesive you mix up yourself -
although Gripfill would certainly do the same). IMHO you'd be better screwing it to the studwork and the filling the screw heads before
painting.
On a more general note I do wonder when the world will start falling apart when all the grip fill gives up
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 02:46 PM |
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I've not had much luck using no-more-nails etc. on rough sawn timber, just doesn't seem to stick very well. I'd screw it and skim
over the screw heads with filler as suggested, won't take long to do.
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Peteff
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 02:48 PM |
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If it's only one board wide can you get it out of an 8x4 sheet? Cut it so it wedges in and the No Nails will not have so much to do. If it is up
to a door frame the architrave will be nailed through and hold it on anyway.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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thunderace
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 posted on 21/12/07 at 03:14 PM |
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you cant use no nails it wont work ,there is only two ways the right and wrong i make so much money out of bodged jobs are you a bodger ,do you want
someone to ask who the hell done that crap and you can say proudly me??
wise up tell them pay up or get someone else to bogge it coz your not puting to name to bad workmanship.
bet you they pay up .
never had someone want a bodged job ever.
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thunderace
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 03:19 PM |
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if its only one sheet use decorators chalk and gripfast and medite in the bathroom or wbp ply coat it in 1-10 pva then tile i hate plasterboard in
bathrooms.
a plaster will carge you £50 max to do it thistle multi on £3 a bag and will only take 1 bag max to plaster
why dont you have a go yourself its not hard to plaster.
worst comes to the worst just enjoy smashing it down.
[Edited on 21/12/07 by thunderace]
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twybrow
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 04:17 PM |
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Not hard to plaster? Maybe not to get the stuff on the wall, but I had a nightmare getting it all even - best left to the professionals for me!
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joneh
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 04:20 PM |
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I used tappered edge plaster board and proper dot and dab plaster to stick it to the wall. You then tape down the middle use a fine filler and sand.
No need to plaster, just paint. Wickes sells all you need.
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Johnmor
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 05:33 PM |
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Fix to wall
Fixing plaster board to a block wall commenly uses the plaste dab system where filler ahesive is used to fix insulated plaster board to a block wall.
Fixing by adhesive is not a problem as long you use the correct adhesive and appy it correctly
The laminated formica faced board used in showers and bathrooms, can only be fixed using this method as the face cannot be marked or broken.
I would not cosider it an issue but if the wall is getting painted it would only take 15 mins to plaster the screw holes and then sand when dry, you
will have to tape the corners if you want to prevent cracking as the heat affects the board anyway.
thats my 2 pence worth
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Neil2004
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 05:38 PM |
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For advice how to fix and finish plasterboard go to the British Gypsum website;
www.british-gypsum.co.uk
Specific information on timber stud partitions can be found at:
www.british-gypsum.co.uk/pdf/sb_tim%20stud_200701.pdf
and finishing details at;
www.british-gypsum.co.uk/pdf/sb_jointing_200701.pdf
To achieve the necessary acoustic and fire performance you probably either need to use Isover APR 1200 insulation in between the plasterboard and the
internal board, or alternatively use 15mm Soundbloc. It is best to screw fix the board to the timber stud, but it is essential that the screws do
not break through the paper as this severely reduces the strength of the fixing.
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roadrunner
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 07:51 PM |
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Has the stud wall got a doorway in it,if you stick the plaster board on then a door is getting banged shut, it could break the fixing.
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 21/12/07 at 11:33 PM |
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Adhesive such as Gripfill will only bond the paper surface to the joist not the board.
Use bugle head screws.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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Peteff
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| posted on 22/12/07 at 12:18 AM |
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I can plaster so it can't be that hard I've done quite a bit having an old house but I can tell you the easiest way to do it is to mix
it thin and paint it on then trowel it over when it starts to go off. Wet it with a garden spray or I use an old handbrush to splash it and then the
edge of the trowel to smooth it over. If the trowel goes flat to the wall it will pull it back off with the suction. It's easier on board as you
already have a flat surface, not like a rendered brick wall. If you want to trowel it on mix it then wait for it to go like butter before you start.
Plaster is cheap enough to have a practise if you have something to try it on.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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LBMEFM
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| posted on 22/12/07 at 08:26 AM |
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Do not just fill the joints as they will crack. Fix plasterboard with counter sunk dry wall screws. Paste jointing paper across the joints (available
from any building suppliers).
Ask for "Easi-Fill" much better than Polly Filler etc, use this to lightly skim across the joints using a steel float. Allow to dry, sand
down using a fine grade paper on a wooden block. Apply two coats of emulsion. Result permanant job. Do it all the time in my work. Good luck.
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