jabbahutt
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 posted on 11/6/08 at 06:53 AM |
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removing a sheared drill bit
morning all
well it had to happen sooner or later. Drilling a hole in a low chassis rail I mange to shear a 5mm drill bit level with the surface of the rail.
The hole needs enlarging to 7mm for it's final intended purpose but any tip for getting the bit out of knocking it into the rail where
I'll stop it rattling round with some expanding foam or something similar
So tips please to accomplish either please
Thanks
Nigel
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Macbeast
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 07:12 AM |
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I suppose I'd try a hammer and centre punch. How easy depends on how flat the broken end of the bit is.
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omega0684
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 07:19 AM |
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get a pair of mole grips on it and turn anti - clockwise, saved me no end of times,
question - why didn't you just drill with 7mm bit in the first place?
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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Macbeast
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 07:22 AM |
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" get a pair of mole grips on it and turn anti - clockwise, saved me no end of times, "
How do you do that when it's broken off flush with the surface of the rail ?
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 07:27 AM |
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would of drilled 7mm hole but was drilling through a panel and into the rail.
Then remove the panel with the 5mm hole in place and enlarge rail hole to 7mm
As above bit end is level with the rail so mole grips won't work.
Will try punching the end to see if I can get it into the rail and at least then I can drill the 7mm hole.
Thanks
Nigel
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 07:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
question - why didn't you just drill with 7mm bit in the first place?
There's someone who hasn't served an apprenticeship 
7mm is too large to start it's own hole, you should always drill a pilot of around 3-4mm if you want to place a hole accurately.
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hughpinder
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 08:08 AM |
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I've managed to use a pair of pointed nose jewelers pliers gripping down the flutes before now.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 09:00 AM |
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Put a blob of mig weld on the end and pull it out, just need to be carefull you strike the arc on the drill bit.
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 09:00 AM |
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As Mike, you always drill a pilot big enough to fit the tip of the next bit into, else there is no cutting edge..
Not done an apprenticeship, but in practice for larger holes in thin tubes I have found going up in 2mm steps helps stop the hole wondering to much in
thin material using a had held drill....
As to getting bit out you could try long nose pliers if you have small ones might just be able to wind it back..
Cheers
Dan
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 09:21 AM |
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thanks for all the assistance, I'll try some and see how it goes.
Worse case it'll have to stay where it is.
Thanks again
Nigel
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pewe
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 11:00 AM |
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quote:
knocking it into the rail where I'll stop it rattling round with some expanding foam or something similar
If you can hear a broken drill bit rattling round in the chassis rail when it's running I suspect you'll have hearing akin to a
bat's radar!
Cheers, Pewe
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chris_smith
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 11:47 AM |
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cant you drill from the opposite side and knock it back through??
dont know where abouts on the car is so not sure if it will be a cosmetic problem
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sucksqueezebangblow
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 03:48 PM |
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The MIG trick may work. Failing that (assuming the rail is horizontal) you could knock it through, drill the hole out to 7mm and then use a magnet to
extract the broken bit. Most tool places sell pen style pointers with small magnets on the end to get at dropped nuts etc.
Better to Burnout than to Fade Away JET METAL ~ AndySparrow © 
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tks
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 03:52 PM |
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how long is the drilled bit...
if its broken touching the oposide from the tube.. you won't be able to punch it in..
in fact i think it does..it has gone in like a screw...and broke because of the drill motor torque...
punching it back from the other side is best thing to do or to spot weld..
and gripturn it back..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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