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Author: Subject: Self Sealing Pop Rivets
mistergrumpy

posted on 14/10/08 at 10:36 AM Reply With Quote
Self Sealing Pop Rivets

Do these exist or have I made it up? I've got an R1 can and have had to rotate the mounting strap which is held on by a stainless rivet which I'm presuming is self sealing.
Where can I get them if I haven't just imagined them?






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phoenix70

posted on 14/10/08 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
You get closed pop rivets , which I think is what you are looking for
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Peteff

posted on 14/10/08 at 10:42 AM Reply With Quote
Pop rivets break the mandrel and leave the ball in the stem and therefore are sealed. There are rivets with sealed ends available but for your use simply use an ordinary rivet. The inside of the silencer will be enough to seal it anyway there's a layer of silencer packing under the outer skin.

[Edited on 14/10/08 by Peteff]





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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mistergrumpy

posted on 14/10/08 at 10:44 AM Reply With Quote
You think so? Righto that's good enough for me then. Cheers fellas.






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nitram38

posted on 14/10/08 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
What you need is "Blind" rivets.
Ordinary rivets (even with the snapped off centre) will allow water to pass through.
That is why blind rivets were made.................






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eznfrank

posted on 14/10/08 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
If you're only after a few for the can I've got boat loads of closed I don't mind sticking a few in the post if you want.
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Peteff

posted on 14/10/08 at 02:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
What you need is "Blind" rivets.
Ordinary rivets (even with the snapped off centre) will allow water to pass through.
That is why blind rivets were made.................


How much water is going to get through a rivet under normal use ? You'd have to park your car in a foot of water for it to cause a problem. "Blind" rivets are any rivets which can be fitted without access to the back of the material, the blind side. He is putting one rivet in a silencer to hold a strap on, lets be realistic here is the silencer going to fill up with water or will it blow because of this?





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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nitram38

posted on 14/10/08 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
What you need is "Blind" rivets.
Ordinary rivets (even with the snapped off centre) will allow water to pass through.
That is why blind rivets were made.................


How much water is going to get through a rivet under normal use ? You'd have to park your car in a foot of water for it to cause a problem. "Blind" rivets are any rivets which can be fitted without access to the back of the material, the blind side. He is putting one rivet in a silencer to hold a strap on, lets be realistic here is the silencer going to fill up with water or will it blow because of this?


Calm down!
They invented blind rivets for a reason.....just think about it.
Or maybe you are picking me up on my terminology?
Perhaps I should have said "closed end" rivets (most people refer to them as blind)
As HERE

[Edited on 14/10/2008 by nitram38]






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Peteff

posted on 14/10/08 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
I'm perfectly calm thank you.

I'm just saying that all pop rivets are blind rivets, they were invented to be applied from one side of a surface without access to the rear and that the worry about water getting in through them is vastly overrated. Closed end rivets where the mandrel pulls out of the rivet body are not as strong or secure as breakstem rivets.



Video





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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NS Dev

posted on 15/10/08 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
As Pete said, to hold an exhaust can together, std rivets will be just fine!!

The rivet is the last bit that will leak. and they will need drilling out every few hundred miles to repack the can so cheaper the better, I use boggo ally ones!!

They shear off on the body panels but never on the can





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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NS Dev

posted on 15/10/08 at 09:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I'm just saying that all pop rivets are blind rivets, they were invented to be applied from one side of a surface without access to the rear and that the worry about water getting in through them is vastly overrated. Closed end rivets where the mandrel pulls out of the rivet body are not as strong or secure as breakstem rivets.



Video


Pete, you can get breakstem rivets with closed ends, I used em on most of my panelling, and they are not expensive, BUT, for an exhaust can they are gilding the lily somewhat!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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mistergrumpy

posted on 15/10/08 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
Bog standard stainless 4.8 wide ones used. Bent my sodding rivet gun though. Nowt a bit of good hammering didn't straighten.
I was bothered by the exhaust gases escaping through the rivet hole more than water, I don't tend on keeping it on after SVA just for that and future MOT's

Cheers all.

[Edited on 15/10/08 by mistergrumpy]






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DarrenW

posted on 16/10/08 at 08:38 AM Reply With Quote
Another vote for std rivets. Ive used these on my can with no ill effects ref sealing.






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