I spoke to Chris at MNR the other day and got some great info. Sounds like a great set up. He mentioned that the R1 engine is best suited for what i was looking for.

I really want to stand out a little bit above your typical bike engined seven that i will find at the track so want just that little bit extra.

Have looked at the tuning that holeshot do but they are based in Northern Ireland.

First of all, who tunes bike engines?

Secondly, what can you realistically get in terms of power from an R1 without turbo charging?

Mark

If you want that little bit more, it'd be far more economical to go straight for a ZX12R or Busa motor...

Bike engines are already very highly tuned with much closer tolerances etc than your average car engine. Save yourself the hassle and go for one of the bigger motors from the outset if the R1 isn't enough.

Why not just start with a more powerful engine to start with (ie ZZR1400)?? What sort of power output are you looking for??

Power commander
Regular oil and filter changes for smoother performance and longevity
less restrictive air filter/airbox
Cold air ducting
Decent spark plug
uprated clutch
4-2-1 exhaust
After market cams
Race can

I thought the latest R1, Hayabusa, zx14 etc are all putting out around the same 180bhp. Maybe i'm wrong

I'm talking about raising the bar to around 210bhp

Personally wouldn't tune r1. Got enough on it's plate hauling 300 extra kgs.

zzr1400 = 197bhp

To get those extra horses from an r1 would be expensive.

Only thing to remember about bike engined BHP is that if they use ram air on the bike then the BHP will always be a little lower in the car.

Have you been in a bec though? They are silly fast already, and tuning to increase BHP is not really what you want, as torque will suffer, and you need torque cos your in a car not a lightweight bike.

Be better to supercharge or turbo it, at least that way there is a torque benefit too - oh and it will weeeeeee all over a "tuned" engine.

ZX14 (ZZR1400) is about 200bhp in the bike as standard so with a decent exhaust and powercommander is likely to be up there.

This has the advantage of simplicity and you arent overstressing the gearbox unduly with loads more power than it was designed for. Gearboxes already get stressed enough with the extra traction of a car installation so stay pretty standard and fit a torque resilient tube prop if you want it to hopefully last as well as regular oil changes (more often than in the bike) and so on mentioned.

have you been in one mate?

becareful about all the figures going round in your head ie 300bhp instead of 180bhp etc these arent boy racers cars

even with 150bhp in such a lightweight car youll have enough power to beat most cars

and realistically as there all so low geared unless you had two big adults and doing over 100mph theres little difference in all the engines from r1 upwards

also a well setup car with a good driver and a little 893 fireblade engine may show you up in a tuned version

so concentrate on these first

ta chris

I always come accross this when talking about power in a seven styled kit car.

Its like you only need so much power etc etc

Ok guys lets talk hypothetically here. Honest opinions. If money was no object what set up would you have and how much power would you be running? This will give me a true indication as to what you all really think is the perfect solution.

"I always come accross this when talking about power in a seven styled kit car."

Doesnt that make you think there might be a good reason for this?? Whats the fastest car you have driven before???

Is that money no object to build the car, or money no object to replace the engine / gearbox when it goes bang through tuning??

Ideally Busa Turbo with about 400bhp, big fat slicks, and a fancy aluminium bracket in the passenger footwell to hold all the spare pairs of underpants i'd be needing to drive it on the trackdays i'd be doing. A van with a couple of spare engines at several thousand pounds a go for when it goes bang too

Seriously though - any BEC is seriously quick and there really is only so much power you can actually use on the road. As Chris says, have you been out in a standard R1 powered car?? First time i went out in a BEC it was a big shock, and i was used to an Imprezza WRX as an everyday car and a 175bhp Zetec se7en as my little toy.


[Edited on 7/5/08 by Paul TigerB6]

well setup carb r1 engine with a setup car no fancy extras

Thanks guys. A little bit of both worlds there.

Ive not been out in one of these so i cant comment. I will get a chance to experience a drive at the end of may so i will probably be changing all i have said out of embaracement in june.

Sorry fastest car that i have driven is a 450/450 evo. Yes that was silly quick!

[Edited on 7/5/08 by marksilver]

i drove an audi R8 about 2 miles (stolen recovered back to auction) felt about the same ,maybe a little slower than kevs blade mk.... much slower than a certain locost R1 turbo ive been in as a passinger

look at it from a BHP per ton perspective. This is the way i got my head round it, i come from the jap scene and couldn't understand why everyone was raving about 150-160 bhp (i had 400 in my mr2) but your talking about cars that weigh 1300kg's or more! when you talking about a car that weighs about 500kgs. it all makes sense!

quote:

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Originally posted by marksilver
Sorry fastest car that i have driven is a 450/450 evo. Yes that was silly quick!

[Edited on 7/5/08 by marksilver]

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Malc at Yorkshire Engines may still have a 2008 busa motor.

200bhp stock, oh yes

Money no object id go for a tuned 2.3 duratec . For my MNR ive gone down the very much tried and tested injected R1 route. After i went in one i had to have it. Its not ground breaking but the set ups quite easy to do yourself and replacement cost is around 700. From what ive read best mods are breathing mods, power commander and clutch springs. Everything else should be done to the car - weight saving, brakes, suspension, tyres and a proper corner weighted setup. If your not sure what to get all i can say is blag some rides in one of each.

In answer to your question. 1500cc Busa.

Now, before you splash-out on a later R1 engine (and there are dyno plots around to prove my point) much of the additional 20 or so BHP that the newer R1s achieve over the 2000/2001/2002/2003 engines is due to the clever ram air effect of the air box. This is hard to replicate in a car so the power produced by the motors will be remarkably similar.

i think i'd supercharge my R1 i recon it'll already have the power to make me need that underpant holder, but a SC should make it just about stupid enough to scare anyone without spending to much ££ but the rest of the car has to be well spec'd too

How easy is it to supercharge them with chains rather than belts?

TTS Performance sell Supercharger kits for R1's

They have one on Ebay at the moment:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-R1-SUPERCHARGER-KIT_W0QQitemZ330218888351QQihZ014QQcategoryZ10490QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em 118Q2el1247#ebayphotohosting

quote:

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Originally posted by marksilver
Sorry fastest car that i have driven is a 450/450 evo. Yes that was silly quick!

[Edited on 7/5/08 by marksilver]

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Look at the results from a track attack type event. here

This MNR Vortx RT+ runs a completely stock 06 R1 with standard ecu and a foam air filter.

Simple but effective and a lot cheaper than most of the cars it is up against.