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Striker Steering Rack
peter030371 - 5/12/23 at 10:53 AM

My first Striker had a 2.4 turn quick rack and for road use I found it a little to much. When I then built my second Striker I went for a 2.9 turn rack to make it a little more road friendly. Move on a few years, and with hindsight, I now wish I had fitted a 2.4 again! The 2.9 is fine on the road but on track it is to slow. I now hardly ever use the car on the road as they are so limiting and prefer track days or sprinting. So my winter plan is to replace the 2.9 with a 2.4.

But....I am sure I fitted the current rack before the side panels went on. I keep looking at the car in the garage and can't convince myself that it is possible to remove the rack without one of the side panels coming off first which is a load of drilling to remove all the rivets which is a job I don't really want to do

Currently there is no stock of 2.4 racks so I don't want to start stripping anything until I have the new rack in my hands. They say they are coming after Christmas but when after Christmas.

So has anyone ever removed a rack from a fully built Striker?

Picture to demonstrate when I need a faster rack

All sidways
All sidways


nick205 - 5/12/23 at 11:31 AM

You may have already considered this, but any chance of:

1. Removing the tie rods from the rack itself
2. Removing / replacing the rack
3. Refitting the tie rods

...just a thought.


peter030371 - 5/12/23 at 12:11 PM

Yes that is in the back of my mind as a possible solution. How easy is it to remove the tie rods in situ on a MK2 escort rack as I have never even looked at doing it before?


nick205 - 5/12/23 at 01:02 PM

Never done a MK2 Escort rack.

Last rack I did was a Peugeot 205 and I used a pipe wrench to remove them. However, I was replacing them so I wasn't concerned about damaging them!

You can get inner tie rod end removal tools. Probably not cheap for a tool with pretty limited use though.


yogibear1969 - 5/12/23 at 05:36 PM

quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
My first Striker had a 2.4 turn quick rack and for road use I found it a little to much. When I then built my second Striker I went for a 2.9 turn rack to make it a little more road friendly. Move on a few years, and with hindsight, I now wish I had fitted a 2.4 again! The 2.9 is fine on the road but on track it is to slow. I now hardly ever use the car on the road as they are so limiting and prefer track days or sprinting. So my winter plan is to replace the 2.9 with a 2.4.

But....I am sure I fitted the current rack before the side panels went on. I keep looking at the car in the garage and can't convince myself that it is possible to remove the rack without one of the side panels coming off first which is a load of drilling to remove all the rivets which is a job I don't really want to do

Currently there is no stock of 2.4 racks so I don't want to start stripping anything until I have the new rack in my hands. They say they are coming after Christmas but when after Christmas.

So has anyone ever removed a rack from a fully built Striker?

Picture to demonstrate when I need a faster rack

All sidways
All sidways



It's been many years, but I am sure when I built Striker I had the panels on before the sterring rack was fitted. I guess depends how tight you made the hole where they come through the side! Sure my panels stopped before the suspension members though?
Indeed, have just looked at JP's build manual and the sterring rack is at the very front of the chassis! Am I missing the point?
Edd


obfripper - 5/12/23 at 06:26 PM

Isn't the hole in your side panel large enough to slide the rack to the left (on full left lock), and then lift the right side up and out of the chassis?

On my striker the first section of the side is not paneled, so I've not had to deal with this.

If the rack is a modern heavy duty reproduction (from rally design etc) it will have modern screwed in rack ends, if it is a reconditioned original escort one it will use a joint which is built on the end of the rack which is serviceable but has to be disassembled to be removed.

Dave


Mr Whippy - 5/12/23 at 09:01 PM

on most racks the pinion sticking out the side is the largest part, take that off and its just a tube that can be pulled through the side. With the bellows off its even smaller. It must be a funny design if you couldn't take it out by that point.


adithorp - 5/12/23 at 09:40 PM

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get items out. Full left lock, move rack as far to n/s. That might give you enough to drop right side down ( maybe with the TRE off.

If not track rods are easy to remove if you've got big enough Stilson wrench or better still one of these...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282243081930?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S2Ubr8b4SYG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jvzsexmirua &var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


Or..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373776398554?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kI3rTCjiTFO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jvzsexmirua &var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


adithorp - 5/12/23 at 09:44 PM

RallyDesign seen to have them.

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=900_1332&products_id=7310


bi22le - 6/12/23 at 12:30 AM

I am sure last time I just disconnected it, slid it all one way and then fed it out in the other direction. I don't really remember it being a problem.


peter030371 - 6/12/23 at 11:37 AM

Thanks for all the replies, seems some have done it (or think it's possible) so I will start stripping it down this weekend

Rally Design are out of stock until after Christmas some time but MK had some in stock and only £15 more so I should get the replacement today or tomorrow.

If I get stuck I will revisit this thread for more pearls of wisdom.


peter030371 - 6/12/23 at 11:44 AM

Just found this picture taken during the build. The holes for the track rods are only just big enough for the gators to fit through when stretched out. I also now have a rad with various pipes in the way....we shall see but it makes be think of one of them Christmas cracker puzzles where you have to untangle two bits of bent metal

Part built
Part built


bi22le - 6/12/23 at 12:06 PM

quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
Just found this picture taken during the build. The holes for the track rods are only just big enough for the gators to fit through when stretched out. I also now have a rad with various pipes in the way....we shall see but it makes be think of one of them Christmas cracker puzzles where you have to untangle two bits of bent metal

Part built
Part built



Interesting holes you have in the tops of your front upper rocker covers. . .


Acac - 6/12/23 at 09:55 PM

As everybody has said , really easy to do , I swapped mine last year , also fitted rose jointed track rod ends as well for easier set up/adjustment .
I’m only over in March if you need a hand , send me a pm if you want my number .


adithorp - 6/12/23 at 10:44 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Acac
As everybody has said , really easy to do , I swapped mine last year , also fitted rose jointed track rod ends as well for easier set up/adjustment .
I’m only over in March if you need a hand , send me a pm if you want my number .


How do Rose joints as track today ends make adjustment easier? Don't you just slacken the locknut and turn the track rods just the same?


peter030371 - 7/12/23 at 12:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by bi22le

[Interesting holes you have in the tops of your front upper rocker covers. . .


it daft really. I purchased the kit from a guy who had given up on it (from here). He had done lots of lovely engineering but he did this these holes to save weight and it must save a few grams! Problem is the inside of the rockers is now going rusty

You can see the holes better here
Wing stays 3
Wing stays 3


I wouldn't have chosen to do it myself.