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Howlor - 30/7/11 at 07:35 PM

Evening All,

I need some help about rendering brick walls, does anybody know what you do around the window frames? I presume the top will be fine as it is against the lintel but what happens down the sides of the window? Does the render butt up to the window frame?

Many thanks,
Steve


stevegough - 30/7/11 at 08:08 PM

I think you need to fit some extruded metal corners - gives a neat edge.

Something like this....b+q kink


Mr Whippy - 30/7/11 at 09:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
I think you need to fit some extruded metal corners - gives a neat edge.

Something like this....b+q kink


Those strips are uses along the bottom of the render to stop it about 1/2 a foot from ground level. Around windows you can render right up to the glass though normally you would give a smooth coat of mortar round the window while doing the scratch coat which you let dry before doing the render coat to the the rest of the wall, you just don't do any around the window and so it's dry it remains plain.


van cleef - 30/7/11 at 09:38 PM

the in goes on the window do need a scratch coat as well as the main wall's but you do just render the top coat into the window and as it's starting to set give it a light rub up with a sponge to take any trowel mark's out , leaving a textured finish.

you could use the stop beads bit not really needed mr whippy is thinking about drip beads which get fitted above the damp course .


Chippy - 30/7/11 at 10:04 PM

This is what you use on corners, just fix to the brick/block work, makes life so much easier. HTH Ray
Linky do


van cleef - 31/7/11 at 05:10 AM

If you are going to use beads just make sure you use stainless steel one's rather than galvanised one's because if you leave any of the galvanised one's exposed on the corner's you might get some rusting which will leave nice orange streak's.


Howlor - 31/7/11 at 09:03 PM

Thanks for the help guys. How do I finish the render up to the window frame? Do I butt it up to it or go right in to the opening then get a window to suit the finished gap? I can see a problem if I put the window in first then render up to it as I won't then be able to replace it should I need to. as the plasterboard on the inside will also be butted up to it!

Thanks,
Steve


Chippy - 31/7/11 at 09:40 PM

Steve the easiest way is to fit your window first, I assume that it would be a plastic type, and then complete your finishings. It's unlikely that you would ever need to replace it, but if you had to then it's a case of cutting away the rendering to get it out. HTH Ray


Litemoth - 31/7/11 at 10:49 PM

Put your windows in first ..I'm assuming there isn't a cavity.

Set the window back to give you a margin between the window and the face of the wall. You put beads (Quoin beads) up the sides and a bell cast bead across the top - this sticks out clear of the window and proud of the rest of the wall to 'cast' the water off the wall an stop it travelling down the window

You render the return between the corner and the window to encapsulate the window and it gives the water a harder job getting in. It's the way its done. If you need to change the window then you take off the plaster/board inside.

Two coats are needed ....a scratch coat of about 10mm (rough the surface up as a key for the topcoat) and a final coat is about 5mm. Beads oftenm come in a 15mm depth for this.

The bell cast bead is also used to form a skirt around the bottom of the wall...it casts the water off the wall and reduces the risk of water penetrating the damp course.

I like the plastic stuff...available in the bigger B&Q's. Nobody in B&Q has a clue what they are though

LINKY

[Edited on 31/7/11 by Litemoth]