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Is this OK ?
karlak - 20/3/10 at 08:06 AM

Finally going to start my engine swap this weekend but have a quick question.

The Pinto that is going in has sat undercover in my garage for a few weeks, but I spotted that it has gone rusty on the part that attaches to the gearbox (dont know how, as the garagae is watertight etc) .

will this be OK as it is - Just pop her in and away we go.

or

Do I need to do some work on removing the rust - I understand that the clutch is in there also, so must be very careful about getting oil/lubricants etc in the area.




ReMan - 20/3/10 at 08:07 AM

That will be fine.
The fact taht it has rusted shows that it is relatively oil free and thats a good thing for a clutch cover


JoelP - 20/3/10 at 08:10 AM

id leave it myself, but then i am lazy.

The rust is caused by condensation, as the garage changes temperature the engine will occationally be colder than its surroundings, and will take water out of the air. It can be a big problem with lathes etc.


StrikerChris - 20/3/10 at 08:13 AM

cant see it being a problem but for the 10minutes it'll take i'd take the clutch off and make sure the friction plate hasn't stuck to the flywheel.can be a tw*t to break free once its in the car!


jollygreengiant - 20/3/10 at 08:18 AM

whilst it looks not too bad, I would be tempted to whip the clutch cover off (the six bpolts around the outside) and check that the Clutch plate is not stuck to either the cover or the flywheel. When re-assembling you can feel for the plate being centralised with your finger tips where the raised outer parts of the cover are (or you can buy or make up a spigot centralise-ing tool to go in the middle) and the plate must go back in with the flatter side to the flywheel.

Hope this helps.


speedyxjs - 20/3/10 at 08:20 AM

Should be fine. Just shove it in and get a start up vid


Antnicuk - 20/3/10 at 08:29 AM

in the time its taken you to photograph it, upload and post this thread, you could have taken it off, given it a clean and put it back


rusty nuts - 20/3/10 at 08:40 AM

A sight less work to take the clutch out now to make sure it hasn't siezed to the flywheel than it will be after fitting the engine .


jimmyjoebob - 20/3/10 at 09:14 AM

Leave it alone! A week after installation and use on the road it will look like that anyway.

The clutch won't have bonded onto the flywheel in three weeks stored in a garage.

My scimitar clutch sticks when unused for 6 months plus (it is stored outside all year) and all i ever do is jack it on the diff, axle stands under chassis at back, start it in fourth gear, rev it to 3k rpm and press the clutch. There is normally a large bang and the rear wheels slow down.


prawnabie - 20/3/10 at 09:30 AM

Not really very good advice above! As you have the gearbox off the engine, it will be foolish not to remove the cover and plate to check they are free - you will also learn something else you otherwise wouldn't get the chance to.

Jusr remember which way the clutch plate goes round and use a suiable size dowel in the spigot bearing to locate the clutch plate centrally before you put the cover back on.


StrikerChris - 20/3/10 at 09:42 AM

quote:
Originally posted by jimmyjoebob
Leave it alone! A week after installation and use on the road it will look like that anyway.

The clutch won't have bonded onto the flywheel in three weeks stored in a garage.

My scimitar clutch sticks when unused for 6 months plus (it is stored outside all year) and all i ever do is jack it on the diff, axle stands under chassis at back, start it in fourth gear, rev it to 3k rpm and press the clutch. There is normally a large bang and the rear wheels slow down.


Where did you leave your horse tonto!


adithorp - 20/3/10 at 09:57 AM

Prawnabie is right. Take it off and have a look. From the look of the fingers, they look pretty far out, which is a sign of a worn clutch anyway (could be just the picture) and the rust around the damping spring in the driven plate looks like more than just recent. Why put it together only to find it needs stripping down soon after completion.

Don't take this the wrong way, but " the part that attaches to the gearbox" and " I understand that the clutch is in there also", indicates that it'd be usefull for you to have a bit of a read up on clutches, how they work and how to fit them before going any further.

adrian


karlak - 20/3/10 at 11:37 AM

quote:


Don't take this the wrong way, but " the part that attaches to the gearbox" and " I understand that the clutch is in there also", indicates that it'd be usefull for you to have a bit of a read up on clutches, how they work and how to fit them before going any further.

adrian


LOL - not taken the wrong way at all. I am on a learning curve here and wanting to learn


karlak - 20/3/10 at 12:02 PM

Thanks for your replies guys- All much appreciated. I have just spoken to my mate who is going to come over and help with the swap. He has done clutches in the past, so it will be coming off for checking and learning processes.


john_p_b - 20/3/10 at 12:21 PM

for the price of a clutch i'd without a doubt be taking that off and binning it for a new one unless you know for definate it's pretty recent and in good condition.


deanwelch - 20/3/10 at 06:05 PM

if you take it off it will be perfect if you don't it will bite you on the arse...........murpys law


t.j. - 20/3/10 at 06:17 PM

I with Adrian,

The fingers are far out, so take it of and take a new clutch-disc

If you have enough money:
take a set including the bearing and pressure plate.

If there take a new pilot bearing.

grtz


karlak - 21/3/10 at 06:21 PM

Thanks Guys - Checked both Pinto's today and the older engine had the much better clutch as far as wear is concerned - So used the original Clutch on the newer engine.

Got the replacement Pinto in and finally got it going when we worked out that the timing was set up differently to the original. Reset the Dizzy 180degrees, and she burst straight into life . Checked and adjusted the timing and it runs lovely. So much better than the original engine and the Twin Dellortos sound fantastic. We checked the camshaft on old one and it was visibly worn, so was losing some powere there.

Got a few issues -

* Leaking oil from the fuel pump where it goes into the block. Think I may need some gasket sealant for that. (may do away with this eventually and go for a facet pump anyway.

* Need to sort out a oil breather system - will get an oil catch tank ordered for that.

* Still need to re-plumb the cooling pipes, and sort a T-piece possible for the pipe that went to the original manifold (which I dont have now ofcourse.


--- can someone tell me what I should do witht the Vaccuum pipe that goes from the Dizzy and used to go to the manifold?


Cheers All - Good day today and I learnt lots of stuff


Toltec - 21/3/10 at 06:54 PM

quote:
Originally posted by karlak

--- can someone tell me what I should do witht the Vaccuum pipe that goes from the Dizzy and used to go to the manifold?




The pipe is for the vacuum advance in your dizzy, it is a mechanical way of varying spark advance dependent on the load on your engine. The pipe needs to be attached to the inlet to make it work.

Sorry do not know much about Dellorto setups so cannot advise how best to get the vacuum re-connected.