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oil drip from edge of head gasket
Craigorypeck - 14/10/12 at 11:47 AM

trying to find an oil leak and changed the seals/gaskets up top on the YB (cam seals, rocker cover) and it was still there, seems to be coming via the head gasket. there are runs down the block starting at the head gasket.
heads off again to sort block and head has been check for warping, all is well. Should I just build up as normal again or are there any suggestions to stop this happening again? I presume a smear of loctite 5910 sealant around the oil gallery spaces on each side of the gasket is a no no?? Thanks


marcjagman - 14/10/12 at 12:36 PM

Don't Burton do a stud and nut kit for it so you can tighten it down a bit more?


Craigorypeck - 14/10/12 at 12:43 PM

thats what was in there


britishtrident - 14/10/12 at 01:04 PM

Shouldn't be a problem but it might be better to use a slightly more flexible grade such loctite Grey 5699

Back in the 1970s we used to get the same problem on Chrysler Avenger engines the official cure until a revised gasket was available was to apply a very narrow bead of the original Orange RTV instant gasket on the gasket around the oil feed hole and along the edge of the gasket where the leak occurred. The RTV had to be allowed a few hours to cure before the head was fitted.
The revised gasket simply differed in having the silicone sealer bead applied at the factory.

Since then I have used same technique to other engines with a similar problem i.e. BL/Rover B, O , M & T series.


On Rover K16 engines with the revised multi-layer head gasket I smear the block surfaces with a easy break grade of Loctite Lock & Seal to ensure the lower part the gasket moves with the block


Chippy - 14/10/12 at 01:07 PM

I always tend to give the head gasket a smear of grease before fitting, may be frowned on by some but I have never had one leak yet. HTH Ray


Craigorypeck - 14/10/12 at 01:41 PM

well the heads about to go back on this eve so a tiny bit of sealant should help then. cheers guys