richard thomas
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posted on 30/10/10 at 10:00 AM |
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floorboards
Advice required...
After doing considerable amount of work to the house, I have some floorboards that have seen better days. They are tongue and groove, where I have had
to take some up the 'tongue' has broken away in places, also some have bowed a bit to the point where the edges stand up above the
neighboring ones, making it visible through the carpet. Some have split a bit too....
I would replace them but they seen to be 'imperial' in thickness, today's 'metric' sizes mean that the only ones I can
get are a little thinner leading to noticeable steps which show through the carpet.
Anyone know best way to get around this?
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blakep82
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posted on 30/10/10 at 10:06 AM |
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hammer and nail?
nail or screw it to the joist underneath?
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pewe
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posted on 30/10/10 at 10:12 AM |
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Just doing similar on my place. Unless you are intent on having the floor exposed my preference is flooring quality, T&G, chip-board. It's
relatively cheap c.£5 a sheet compared with £1/ft for reclaimed old boards.
Current boards are 3/4" (c.19.5mm) thick whereas chipboard is 18mm = virtually no difference. Where needed I just pack the joists with some
hardboard or similar before laying the chip-board.
Also I tend to screw the chipboard down as nailing is such a PITA if ever you have to lift it.
Don't use ordinary chipboard as it crumbles after a time (don't ask how I know!).
Flooring quality is damp-proof (slightly green in colour).
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe
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Fred W B
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posted on 30/10/10 at 10:18 AM |
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How much are we talking?. If you are lucky enough it might be close to exactly say 2 or 3 mm and you could then fix a suitable thickness ply or
plastic material spacer.shim on top of the new boards to make up the difference, seeing as it will be under carpet.
Depending where the tonge is on the new boards you may need the same thickness spacer underneath.
Otherwise you will have to replace the whole lot, or have custom boards made?
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 30/10/10 at 10:31 AM |
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re thickness, many (good) timber suppliers can puit timber through a ticknesser to get the exact thickness you want. May cost a littleextra, but not
much.
I got round a lot of this by taking up one large section of good boards from one room, and used those to replace lots of odd ones that were damaged.
Then replaced the big section with nearest size. Bear in mind width can vary too.
If edges are up, I have used a planer to whizz them off, just make sure nails are punched down out of the way.
I too have used chipboard, but proper wood does make a nicer floor (in my house at least )
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MakeEverything
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posted on 30/10/10 at 11:40 AM |
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Get a floor planer. That'll level all the boards off.
Alternatively, get down to a local sawmill that will make boards to your exact specifications, which is ok for one or two, but it just cost me £200
for 20 linear meters of 3" x 19mm oak skirting board.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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lexus
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posted on 30/10/10 at 02:22 PM |
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Or if you want a 'quick and dirty' cheap solution, pin hardboard over the floor (with short pins to avoid any heating pipes!).I did this
when I moved into this old house 25years ago....carpets look fine. Carpets have been replaced at various times, and the hardboard stays intact. Costs
peanuts.
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dmac
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posted on 30/10/10 at 06:15 PM |
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Get a couple of square feet of lino from somewhere and use that to create packers on the joists. You should be able to get it even to within a mm or
so and that won't show if you have underlay.
Duncan
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