chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:16 PM |
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bloody car
Had issues with my car hesitating after acceleration back to normal speed driving since i have had it (Bar 70 miles of the journey home from picking
it up) Today changed all the plugs leads dizzy etc car is idling fine, let it warm upto temp, no problems, go for a drive, all seems good. after about
ten minutes driving car dies. really difficult to restart, then wont rev past about 2k and sounds like tractor. if you try and pull away it just dies,
or kangaroos at about ten miles an hour. (Had symptoms yesterday with different ignition items, changed to see if they are the problem)
Engine is 1.6 pinto bored to 2073 with dizzy and rotor arm fitted. car had done 7000 trouble free miles till the day i picked it up. Cleaned all the
carb jets, cleaned and ran without fuel filter still no joy. was going to take to a rolling road to get looked at but looks like a trailer job to get
there at the minute. Anyone any ideas, or close enough to come and have a gander?? Thanks in advance.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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JoelP
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:28 PM |
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isnt that just running rich? I had the exact same problem with mine, and was told those were symptoms of running rich.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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melly-g
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:30 PM |
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Is the ignition coil OK, and the resistor thing on the side of the dizzy (forgotten what its called) that can cause lots of problems, Points set up
OK? Not burnt out, if the resistor thing is knackered I believe this will happen!
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:30 PM |
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who knows
Maybe, not thought of that, odd that it should run fine for 70 miles then either like a bag of spanners or not at all, surely the mixture cant change
that easily.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:33 PM |
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melly not points
Melly, need to change the coil to eliminate that, dizzy and rotor arm seem fine. just a matter of elimination i guess. May try and get it to my
mechanic when i get back from my next job away, thats if i can get it to drive that far.
[Edited on 10/11/10 by chrisxr2]
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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melly-g
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:34 PM |
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Could it still be the coil breaking down as it gets hot?
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:36 PM |
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possibly
Aye maybe, edited post as hadnt read your previous reply properly.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 08:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by melly-g
Could it still be the coil breaking down as it gets hot?
ditto.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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adithorp
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 09:03 PM |
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Is it OK again once its cooled down, untill it's warned up again? Check the valve clearence.
...and that "resistor thing" is the condenser (which is actualy a capacitor)
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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UncleFista
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 09:15 PM |
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I'd check the coil first too.
Sounds like a textbook case to me 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 09:18 PM |
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Start with checking the basicsbeginning with the valve clearances which are normally done cold on a Pinto lump . Can a 1.6 lump be bored to 2.1?
Suspect it's probably a 2 lt lump to start with. Does it have electronic ignition , points with or without ballast resistor ? Is the
distributor timed correctly? retarded ignition will cause symptoms like yours
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Garyd
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 09:26 PM |
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Hi
I have worked on and raced many pintos and one thing they often do (which gives the same symptoms as your car) is jump a tooth on the timing pulley. I
would check the ignition timing first then coil and condensor as said before.
Good luck
Gary
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 10:00 PM |
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thanks all
Thanks everyone. Off to france working for 10 days tommorow, a good list of things to be looking at when i get back.
Rusty, started life as a 1.6, was injection, now carb with dizzy and rotor arm.
[Edited on 10/11/10 by chrisxr2]
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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keith777
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 10:26 PM |
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I had similar symptoms due to blocked jets in carb !
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snapper
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 10:41 PM |
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You can't bore a 1.6 to 2037, surely you have porous bores
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 10:41 PM |
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cleaned to death
keith i have cleaned all the carb jets numerous times, i am fairly sure it isnt that as that was my first thought unless there is some professional
way of getting them cleaned. I just used a load of carb cleaner, on all the jets including the idle jet on both carbs, no end of times cleaned. Will
do them again along with all other suggestions though.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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donny
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 10:47 PM |
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Hi,
just a thought. I had some similar problems with a golf GTi. Replacing the fuel filter did the trick.
Donny
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rayward
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 11:00 PM |
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"Engine is 1.6 pinto bored to 2073"
can you actually bore a 1.6 pinto block that far ???
" car had done 7000 trouble free miles till the day i picked it up"
do you know this for certain?, or is it just what the previous owner told you ?
what colour are your plugs ?, have you done a compression test ?, is your timing correct ?
Ray
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Dingz
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| posted on 10/11/10 at 11:10 PM |
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if not the coil check you haven't got crap floating about in the tank, if there isn't a filter on the end of the pick up pipe it can
partly block it. You could try running on a jerry can if it's difficult to see in the tank
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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Dusty
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 12:25 AM |
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Is there a vent to let air into the fuel tank. Whip the filler cap off next time it happens. If there is a great suck of air on removal add a tank
vent.
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 10:32 AM |
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replies
dusty there is a vent to the fuel tank, no whooshing on cap removal.
Rayward have taken what previous owner said at face value, seemed a genuine guy (Although not returning my messages now) regular on the haynes forum
and respected member so no reason not to trust him. Timing and compression to be checked. Plugs removed where all black and sooty.
Donny have cleaned and replaced the fuel filter a couple of times.
Dings not had chance to check tank yet.
Thanks all hopefull get it sorted on my return.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 11:34 AM |
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black sooty plugs means running too rich
they should be clean and a light grey or brown colour:
found this pic on google to show you what I mean linky
does the carb have an automatic ckoke ?
[Edited on 11/11/2010 by mcerd1]
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jimmyjoebob
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 12:25 PM |
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Another thing to check - low tension lead from coil to distributor.
My scimitar used to cut out randomly under load on long journeys (always after travelling some 50miles without fault). It would coast to a stop and
the engine would then idle ok but splutter on revving or it simply wouldn't start for 5 mins or so. It eventually turned out to be a break in
the low tension wire where it crossed from inner wheel arch to engine above the exhaust. I had already replaced the carb, distributor, coil, plugs,
leads, fuel tank breather, fuel lines and filter and still not cured it. It was only by chance i knocked the low tension lead whilst the engine was
running and it instantly spluttered.
I know how frustrating the tracking down of a problem can be - good luck!
If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 12:27 PM |
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dunno about down there but up here with the current weather situation ( in the past) I have seen carbs icing up inside before. this causes them to
over fuel ( almost like running with the choke on.)
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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chrisxr2
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| posted on 11/11/10 at 12:31 PM |
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thanks again
mcerd, plugs looked like the top middle picture on the haynes picture. Twin weber 40s with i believe autochoke.
Jimmyjoe bob, that is a good call and another one on the list
Re: iKnow problems are hard to track down i just wish i had done more than 70 miles in the car before i had had one and that was half the journey home
(Rest was on a low loader) not actually had a good drive out in the car since i have owned it.
Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
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