ash_hammond
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 04:48 PM |
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Pinto Oil Grade
Hi All,
What grade oil do people run in their Pinto Engines.
Also how many litres considering the sump is shortened.
Thanks
--Ash
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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jacko
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 05:22 PM |
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I use 10 /40 full sin
The amount of oil is determined by the dip stick fill to the top mark
I use a jug to see how much goes in
Jacko
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sssline
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 05:55 PM |
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Hi,
I've stuck with 20/50, based on that being the preferred at the time of manufacture and for additive levels to suit the pinto engine, also like
the metal can that castrol classic comes in 
Cheers
Tony.R
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snapper
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 06:13 PM |
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20w50 gives a bit more psi
If the dipstick and tube is correct for the block then fill to the max, the dipstick is only so you don't over fill and have the crank splashing
in the oil, the bottom level is now nearly irrelevant as you have less oil in the sump than the dipstick was made for.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 06:23 PM |
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I used 5w 50 fully synth because I rebuilt the engine to high spec but if it's never been apart then 20w 50 is the norm
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 06:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sssline
Hi,
I've stuck with 20/50, based on that being the preferred at the time of manufacture and for additive levels to suit the pinto engine, also like
the metal can that castrol classic comes in
Cheers
Tony.R
The 1970s ubiquitous 20w/50 mineral oil is one the main reason early Pintos ate camshafts due lack of lubrication after cold starts. Camshaft
lubrication is a major problem on Pintos.
10w/40 or 5w/40 semi or full synthetic --- as Pintos greatly a highly detergent oil ideally the oil of choice would also meet the API spec CD
or later for Diesel engines.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 07:19 PM |
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Valvoline 20w50 VR1 for me.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 08:06 PM |
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my donor used to run on cheap 10w/40 mineral oil that was ment for old diesel tractors  (I'd guess there was loads of detergent in that
stuff)
but it was still doing very well after 151k and no rebuilds (at least 100k on the cheap oil...)
now its been rebuilt I'm going to try something like 10w/40 or 15w/40 synthetic (or maybe semi-synthetic)
[Edited on 6/5/2011 by mcerd1]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 08:10 PM |
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I ran 10w60 Castrol stuff in a gold coloured bottle. Basically their fully synthetic stuff.
Standard oil grade is 20w50. Normally on hard driving with higher oil temps you would increase the hot weight by 10. The first number should just be
as low as possible to improve lube when cold...
Always got excellent oil pressure.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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sssline
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 08:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by sssline
Hi,
I've stuck with 20/50, based on that being the preferred at the time of manufacture and for additive levels to suit the pinto engine, also like
the metal can that castrol classic comes in
Cheers
Tony.R
The 1970s ubiquitous 20w/50 mineral oil is one the main reason early Pintos ate camshafts due lack of lubrication after cold starts. Camshaft
lubrication is a major problem on Pintos.
10w/40 or 5w/40 semi or full synthetic --- as Pintos greatly a highly detergent oil ideally the oil of choice would also meet the API spec CD
or later for Diesel engines.
True, just bear in mind that "good" early oils are EP rated due to the high pressures involved between cam and follower, modern oils can
also cause wear due to the lack of additives to deal with this 
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 09:05 PM |
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Thanks Guys.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/5/11 at 09:10 PM |
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While a drop in oil pressure is a symptom, but getting higher oil pressure by using a more viscose oil grade doesn't have any advantage or
relevance.
One of the main reasons modern engines are lasting much longer without rebuilds than 1970s and earlier engines is the improvement in oils. Modern
oils that flow better at the cold end but also have better film strength protect the wearing parts much better than old fashioned oils.
More than 90% of engine wear occurs at and just after cold start. At cold start the key factor is the time taken for an effective oil supply to reach
the wearing parts, with the Pinto engine the camshaft and followers are a problem because the finger followers effectively wipe the lubrication film
off the camshaft. Because the cam is located a long way from the oil pump it takes a relatively long time for oil to get through and renew the oil
film.
Leaving aside the supply of oil to the camshaft and cold start issues the actual oil pressure in the that prevents metal to metal contact within the
bearing is generated by fluid hydrodynamic effects within the bearing itself.
This pressure in is much higher than any head of pressure the oil pump can generate. To service the crankshaft bearings all the oil pump has to do
is to generate sufficient oil flow rate to replace the oil in the bearing and cool the bearing.
Thicker the oil viscosity the oil the lower the oil flow rate to the bearings, a lower flow rate implies less cooling.
[Edited on 7/5/11 by britishtrident]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/5/11 at 06:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sssline
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by sssline
Hi,
I've stuck with 20/50, based on that being the preferred at the time of manufacture and for additive levels to suit the pinto engine, also like
the metal can that castrol classic comes in
Cheers
Tony.R
The 1970s ubiquitous 20w/50 mineral oil is one the main reason early Pintos ate camshafts due lack of lubrication after cold starts. Camshaft
lubrication is a major problem on Pintos.
10w/40 or 5w/40 semi or full synthetic --- as Pintos greatly a highly detergent oil ideally the oil of choice would also meet the API spec CD
or later for Diesel engines.
True, just bear in mind that "good" early oils are EP rated due to the high pressures involved between cam and follower, modern oils can
also cause wear due to the lack of additives to deal with this
Modern oils have much higher film strengths than mineral oils they simply don't need the amounts of anti-scuff additives used in mineral
oils.
Between 1960 and 2000 the life expectancy of the bottom end bearings of a typical Ford engine increased from 30,000 miles to 200,000 miles the
main reason for this was improved oils.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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