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Author: Subject: chassis the best setup
popstar

posted on 7/6/12 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
chassis the best setup

hi as a newbe i hope noone shouts at me





to make is better than to buy unless its a ferrari

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popstar

posted on 7/6/12 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
what ever just said

sorry dont know what happened post with out posting much lol
any way befor i start my build has any one any tips on setup of chassis (Handyandys flat pack following book (many Thanks when i collect)
that is not mentioned in the book or that any one has come across to aid or help with future problems or is it problem proof
i aim to use 2lt ztec and gear box with as much as possible from mondeo and other parts from sierra (scrapyard)


all help and addvice welcom





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Hellfire

posted on 7/6/12 at 10:38 PM Reply With Quote
Welcome to the forum and the bestest resource on the www for all things kit car related.

Best thing to do is concentrate on building your car first and then worry about the set-up afterwards. There are lots of things you could potentially change to ensure you can achieve a precise set-up on completion of your build but this will involve additional time and expense and will prolong your build. And until it's actually built and driveable, you won't really know what needs altering or changing.

The only things I would possibly change from the beginning, would be to make the front top wishbones adjustable for castor and make the rears adjustable for toe. That's not to say that the manufactured wishbones will be wrong when fitted, it just makes life so much easier if they need adjusting afterwards for whatever reason.

Apart from that, make sure everything is well lubricated and smooth/easy to operate and ensure your steering rack is the correct length to minimise/eliminate bump steer.

Good luck with your build.

Phil






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deezee

posted on 8/6/12 at 07:48 AM Reply With Quote
Not sure what you can use from a Mondeo on a Sierra (or more recently Mazda MX5) based kit car. The engine is an obvious one. After that I'm fresh out of ideas. You still need a RWD gearbox, differential, drive shafts, hub carriers, brakes to suit, front uprights off a RWD car with brakes to suit. Bear in mind, if its all from a scrapheap, you'll get a Q plate when registration comes, but if you have a Sierra / Mazda MX5 donor, your likely to get an age related plate.

I agree with Hellfire though, quick adjusters on the wishbones make life so much easier. Just don't use aluminium ones, as people have had experiance of them snapping! Use steel ones. The rear of the car is an area to pay particular attention too as the design alters from the book if your using GRP panels and not aluminium ones. Also check the Haynes Forums for the book revisions and improvements.






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Slimy38

posted on 8/6/12 at 09:37 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire would be to make the front top wishbones adjustable for castor and make the rears adjustable for toe.


Sorry to divert the thread, but how would you do this? I can sort of visualise how to adjust toe on the rears (perhaps replace the lower fixed bushes with rose joints?), but how would you allow castor adjustment on the front? Would you allow the entire top wishbone to be adjustable fore and aft? How could that be done?

[Edited on 8/6/12 by Slimy38]

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Hellfire

posted on 8/6/12 at 10:27 AM Reply With Quote
Pictures & words......

Front wishbones
Front wishbones


Phil






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popstar

posted on 8/6/12 at 11:02 AM Reply With Quote
thanks

thanks all so far for imput prodject starts in 4 weeks
is there an average time for kits from build to completion
thanks pics help hellfire

as for adjustables the chassis as a prosumtion is stright foward as book and although yes mazda mx5 new i will be using sierra and mondeobut van get good deal trading mondeo for sierra so might go down the route of complete swaps

again thanks





to make is better than to buy unless its a ferrari

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Hellfire

posted on 8/6/12 at 11:13 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by popstar

is there an average time for kits from build to completion



It really depends on how much time you can devote to the build but if you aim for about 12 months, anytime sooner will be a bonus. Ideally you'd want to be on the road for March/April 2013 when the weather starts to improve.

Phil






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coozer

posted on 8/6/12 at 11:23 AM Reply With Quote
If I was building a new chassis I would be looking at incorporating a full cage, not just bolted on top but integral to the chassis...





1972 V8 Jago

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phelpsa

posted on 8/6/12 at 11:31 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
If I was building a new chassis I would be looking at incorporating a full cage, not just bolted on top but integral to the chassis...


Thats what I thought when I bought mine so I had it all welded in place etc.

Very shortly after I started putting things together I realised that it was a bad plan...






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popstar

posted on 8/6/12 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
roll cage

sorry guys how is whelding rollcage in a better or worse idea
putting it out there i was thinking for the RC to be weelded as i have a detachable "roof" idea i am working on with gull wing doors incorperating 2 center beems from rear rollcage to window and that was to be aided by whelding in so aid streght





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coozer

posted on 8/6/12 at 12:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by phelpsa
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
If I was building a new chassis I would be looking at incorporating a full cage, not just bolted on top but integral to the chassis...


Thats what I thought when I bought mine so I had it all welded in place etc.

Very shortly after I started putting things together I realised that it was a bad plan...


What was the problem??





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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phelpsa

posted on 8/6/12 at 12:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
quote:
Originally posted by phelpsa
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
If I was building a new chassis I would be looking at incorporating a full cage, not just bolted on top but integral to the chassis...


Thats what I thought when I bought mine so I had it all welded in place etc.

Very shortly after I started putting things together I realised that it was a bad plan...


What was the problem??


It became very difficult to put together! All the panels had to be bent / cut / persuaded around the roll cage to get them on, rivets became difficult to drill / insert etc

If you thought it out properly before hand and made the cage specifically so that everything could be assembled easily around it then it wouldn't be such a problem, but I would also argue that it wouldn't be such a good cage. A proper 3 bolt mounting into a reinforced plate is just as strong and only marginally heavier (might save half a kilo to weld it in).






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popstar

posted on 8/6/12 at 01:06 PM Reply With Quote
cage

so to conclude wheelding is good but need to think about attaching panels when designing and bolting on is still as good





to make is better than to buy unless its a ferrari

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