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Author: Subject: Which Brake Master Cylinder?
imagineer

posted on 30/10/12 at 11:26 AM Reply With Quote
Which Brake Master Cylinder?

Building a Haynes with a 1.8 Zetec black-top.

Do I use a Sierra brake master cylinder, or are there alternative/better options?

Cheers.

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adithorp

posted on 30/10/12 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
Plenty have used the Sierra master, though with no servo you'll get better brake feel using a mk1-2 fiesta non-servo master cylinder.





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imagineer

posted on 30/10/12 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
Is that the one with the cable linkage coming direclty out of the cylinder?
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adithorp

posted on 30/10/12 at 01:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by imagineer
Is that the one with the cable linkage coming direclty out of the cylinder?


Cable linkage ? :?





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imagineer

posted on 30/10/12 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote
eBay Item
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britishtrident

posted on 30/10/12 at 01:34 PM Reply With Quote
Fiat 124 master cylinder is a good choice for best price see Brakes International online shop.

[Edited on 30/10/12 by britishtrident]





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adithorp

posted on 30/10/12 at 02:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by imagineer
eBay Item


Yes, thats the one.

Still don't get what you mean by "cable linkage"... unless you mean the push rod on the end to attach to the pedal.





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imagineer

posted on 30/10/12 at 03:02 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry, yes, meant the push rod.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 30/10/12 at 03:05 PM Reply With Quote
Looking at that item, am i right inthinking that's got 4 take-offs for brakes, 2 front and 2 rear? Are there any alternatives to the Sierra master, with 3 outlets? Or suggestions on how to connect all 4 ports when I've only got a single feed to the rear of the car?

Ta!


quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by imagineer
eBay Item


Yes, thats the one.

Still don't get what you mean by "cable linkage"... unless you mean the push rod on the end to attach to the pedal.






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britishtrident

posted on 30/10/12 at 03:10 PM Reply With Quote
Just screw a standard M10 bleed nipple or hydraulic brake light switch in the ports you don't want to use.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 30/10/12 at 03:13 PM Reply With Quote
Wow, I am slow today! Thanks for that, saved me a load of hassle....

Having researched it some more, I find more questions arising! Are the Fiesta M/C outlet ports 3xM10 and 1xM12 or two of each? Either way I'm going to need a couple of new adaptors to secure the pipes to them properly!

And I'm guessing the standard cap didn't have a level sensor - any alternatives that would fit this reservoir?

I promise I've used the "search" function, just can't find the answers i'm looking for!!!!

[Edited on 30/10/12 by Charlie_Zetec]

[Edited on 30/10/12 by Charlie_Zetec]





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adithorp

posted on 30/10/12 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
Pretty sure they're all m10. I don't remember seeing m12 ports on any Ford master cylinders... but don't hold me to that.

Do a search for posts by "laptoprob" as he's changed his Sierra master cylinder to a Fiesta one recently.





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britishtrident

posted on 30/10/12 at 05:05 PM Reply With Quote
No M12 ports on early Fiesta cylinders later marks had pressure regulator valves for the rear brakes screwed straight into two cylinder outlets.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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adithorp

posted on 30/10/12 at 05:12 PM Reply With Quote
Pretty sure the cap had a sensor in it. Any later Ford cap with a float switch should fit though.





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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 14/11/12 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
Right, bought a new early mk1 Fiesta M/C from eBay. Came with three M10 ports and one M12. Not a big issue as I've got an M10 to M12 adaptor that I'm going to put a pressure switch on.

Couple of questions though;

i) The length of the thread is not as deep as the recess on the M/C - should I put a copper washer on it and just do up tightly to ensure it holds, or something stronger such as thread lock?

ii) With one of the ports nearest the front of the M/C housing the switch, does it actually matter which of the other brake lines go to which outlet? I know what it should be like in an ideal world, but as I've p-clipped the front lines in already I don't really fancy having to put a join in the lines if I can help it!





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britishtrident

posted on 14/11/12 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
I would advise you put it back on ebay and get a more suitable cylinder ie one designed for a car without a servo --- you need an early Fiesta (mk1 or mk2 poverty spec) or Early Polo/Golf (Mk1 non-servo) or Fiat 124 master cylinder.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 14/11/12 at 07:42 PM Reply With Quote
FIESTA MKI BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER 6067714 PMC157 is the item I purchased. Surely that fits into the correct category of early fiesta non-servo? General unions fit in the respective positions nicely, just the pressure switch adaptor that's not quite long enough!

Need to take more time writing my posts, long day and the brain is frazzled!





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whitestu

posted on 14/11/12 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
What size is the bore? If it is non-servo it will be 19mm or less.

Stu

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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 14/11/12 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
17.46mm bore.... apparently the item I got came from an XR2 as opposed to the smaller engines fiesta. Not the end of the world really! Just need to fit the thing and find a cap with float sensor that fits the thread and is the correct depth....





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daviep

posted on 14/11/12 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec
Right, bought a new early mk1 Fiesta M/C from eBay. Came with three M10 ports and one M12. Not a big issue as I've got an M10 to M12 adaptor that I'm going to put a pressure switch on.

Couple of questions though;

i) The length of the thread is not as deep as the recess on the M/C - should I put a copper washer on it and just do up tightly to ensure it holds, or something stronger such as thread lock? What doesn't have a long enough thread, is it a brake pipe nut, the adaptor or the switch? Depending on which one affects the solution.

ii) With one of the ports nearest the front of the M/C housing the switch, does it actually matter which of the other brake lines go to which outlet? I know what it should be like in an ideal world, but as I've p-clipped the front lines in already I don't really fancy having to put a join in the lines if I can help it! Yes the two fronts normally go to the front most ports so they are on the same circuit, if you must have the switch in one of the front ports then both fronts should be taken from the 2nd front port and split with a Tee piece. The rear brakes should be taken from one of the rear ports and split with a Tee piece at the rear. There are other ways to split the circuits but that is the simplest.



Cheers
Davie





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