Jon
In order to get my gearbox back enough I need to make some room. There are two detent (self centring) springs that poke out either side of the shifter
that I can't remove. This means that I will need to mod the chassis. I want to remove one of the parts in the diagram (part k) and then be able
to bolt it in after? Is this possible? And if so how would you do it?
Jon
Can you remove a 'D' section of the tube and plate the hole to give clearance?
Or, use a 'U' channel, open side inwards, instead of tube and cut a 'D' section in that.
Either way water will drain away.
can you remove one and move it back a bit, and re-weld it in (would need a new longer tube though)
so gearbox goes in, to the side to clear one, then the other way to clear the other
what gearbox is that long?!
I altered that whole area to get the LT77 box and V8 in, including completely different shape to the tunnel, and making chassis 4"wider than
book. I also used 1" box instead of 3/4" and just to bolt the stable door (so to speak), also seam welded sheet over front/top and inside of
tunnel for both footwells.
You should be able to either put it somewhere else or use two in "k's" instead of one.
ATB
Simon
I am not sure what you mean Designer? It's probably me being thick though.
I did think about offsetting one of them but thought it would make it weak? I need to replace the section across the top anyway as someone has hacked
half of it away to clear the type 9 and dog legged shifter.
The gearbox is from a 200sx, the shifter will actually sit in the right position the same as the type 9 one.
You can keep the kink in members d-j and c-i where it is and move members k back or forward a couple of inches without significantly affecting the chassis.
ahhhhh right, i was looking at the wrong K 
ok, so the gearbox isn't as long as i thought now. i suspect the tubes are there because of the bend, so perhaps instead of 1 tube vertically,
perhaps you could put 2 in, like a triangle, with the point at the top, retains the strength as its a triangle
Both pairs of k members are there to stabilise the kinks in the top rails, so they don't fold like an elbow under compression loads, which they will be under. If they are no more than a 3 or 4 inches away from the kink itself they will still do their job.
I moved the two uprights (k) back by an inch and kept the original crosspiece in it's original position, can't see there being a problem with that.
I put the engine and gearbox in the chassis and made the tunnel round it so I had the gearlever where it suited me and room for my feet.
quote:
Originally posted by rachaeljf
Both pairs of k members are there to stabilise the kinks in the top rails, so they don't fold like an elbow under compression loads, which they will be under. If they are no more than a 3 or 4 inches away from the kink itself they will still do their job.
Original 7's (and current Birkins for that matter) have no structure there at all, so I wouldn't sweat it.
Cheers
Fred W B
quote:
Originally posted by jon200
quote:
Originally posted by rachaeljf
Both pairs of k members are there to stabilise the kinks in the top rails, so they don't fold like an elbow under compression loads, which they will be under. If they are no more than a 3 or 4 inches away from the kink itself they will still do their job.
Looks like thats what i will be doing then. I need to replace the top piece anyway as it been hacked. so i will replace the top part and move one side part (K). Would i need to support the chassis at all when removing them?
Jon
I would suggest doing it on a build table or on stands placed under members G and B1/2 to minimise the global bending moments present in the chassis as you weld bits in (imagine how a bookshelf would sag more by supporting it at its ends versus supporting it at points sightly inboard). This would minimise the internal stresses "built in" to the (statically indeterminate) structure.
That would make sense lol. It's not going to move then is it!