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Fuel Tank foam
mazie - 6/5/16 at 07:12 AM

My fury has an extended tank in that holds juts shy of 40 litres, whilst lovely for touring , out on track its causing the fuel to move about way to much .
Its not an easy job to remove the tank as its fitted from the top and the tub is bonded in. My solution is to fill it with the little foam cubes. I'm not fussed about a fuel gauge, Ill use the technical 'pokey stick' to judge fuel level.

Has anyone used it? Where else can I buy it from? I know Merlin Motorsport sell it but its not exactly cheap, not for open cell foam anyone!


Doctor Derek Doctors - 6/5/16 at 07:36 AM

Might be worth asking any local racing teams if they have any offcuts, often you can get quite big chunks left over, especially when GT teams are filling a 100lt endurance tank.


WallerZero - 6/5/16 at 10:11 AM

I was asked about this when looking for my new custom fuel tank. I read into it and dropping bits in was highly advised against. A lot of manufacturers I found would only foam fill it if they were to make a new tank.

Also if you just fill it with lots of offcuts that are loose, will you not just have that all rolling about instead when driven hard on track?


907 - 6/5/16 at 11:37 AM

quote:
Originally posted by WallerZero
I was asked about this when looking for my new custom fuel tank. I read into it and dropping bits in was highly advised against. A lot of manufacturers I found would only foam fill it if they were to make a new tank.

Also if you just fill it with lots of offcuts that are loose, will you not just have that all rolling about instead when driven hard on track?






100% agree
Paul G


coyoteboy - 6/5/16 at 12:10 PM

Plenty of places sell 50ism mm cubes. There's no harm in packing with cubes. If it's packed properly it should be perfectly good. Packing pre-build would be pretty tricky because you'd never know if you were welding/burning it and causing offcuts and problems.


adithorp - 6/5/16 at 12:28 PM

Are you sure the tent fits from the top? Every fury I've seen goes in from the bottom. On live axle you need to drop the axle to get it out and on IRS you need to trim out part of the rear valance.

The trouble with foam is the little bits that fall off it, blocking pipes and filters. A mate has had real trouble with that. Much better IMO on a road car to get the tank baffled.


mazie - 6/5/16 at 07:41 PM

Adi, pretty sure its from the top, its an extended MG tank ( could be wrong I didn't build it but Adrian on here did ,maybe he knows :-) ) the lip around the tank sits on top of the chassis member. Looks like id have t cut it out or wait for it to crumble from rust, which its started to do also . Id like to fit a plastic tank in its place see.

Ill go take a photo now.


02GF74 - 6/5/16 at 07:58 PM

Buy lots of kiddie sized coke cans, drink the coke then make holes in them.

Hopefully theyre small enough to pass through the filler, jam as many as will fit into the tank without rattling et voila. Instant baffles.


mazie - 6/5/16 at 08:07 PM

no your right its from the bottom! no idea why I remembered it otherwise. So yes I can drop it but like you say I will have to cut more out of the rear valence. Thats good news to what I was expecting.


mazie - 6/5/16 at 08:10 PM

now thats a locost suggestion :-) I like that . Thats a lot of mini tonics for the G &T then


bi22le - 6/5/16 at 10:18 PM

Swirl pot and a low pressure fuel pump?

Mallory has a looooong right Russ so keep the tank topped up!


adithorp - 7/5/16 at 08:49 AM

I like the cans idea but think the inevitable rattle would wind me up.

If your thinking of taking the tank out then I'd consider having replacement made in ally'. Plastic tanks are OK but there's few that are baffled and many have leak issues around the fittings. If going custom ally go for (a) baffles (b) a sump of about 1/2lt with the outlet on the bottom (not side like many), inlet to sup smaller than sump diameter so fuel is baffled in (my sump is about 10cm dia with a 4cm hole in) (c) the return pipe into the sump (even if not using inj' it's future proofed) (d) breather pipe in the middle to reduce the effects of swill on both L+R corners. Bryn at Ally-Fab is often recommended though I've never used him.


FuryRebuild - 7/5/16 at 12:57 PM

I think when I finish my composite tank, I'll baffle it. I had to scrap the original idea - the moulds were not good in as much as I couldn't actually load cloth in to them - bad flange design on my behalf.

This is a good thread for sure.


coyoteboy - 7/5/16 at 03:12 PM

Unbaffled tanks also wreak havoc with your cornering balance due to the dynamic weight shift.


mazie - 7/5/16 at 09:59 PM

the weight shift is one of the reasons I'm wanting to change things. I'll wait until I've been to mallory in June before I try anything now. I like the idea of a custom Alloy tank and I'm also wanting to move to Injection next year but what kind of money are we talking for a custom tank?