dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 04:32 PM |
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It drops back down because you don't have a check valve in your fuel line, but if you do and fuel pressure drops like a rock then that points to
a stuck injector.
4 bar fuel pressure is pretty high, you need 3 bar, but that might come down as you get vacuum from then the engine starts.
What I would do is disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and then set fuel pressure to 3 bar.
You should be reading the MAP sensor from the gauge in tunerstudio because this is what the ECU sees the map MAP is.
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 04:36 PM |
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You are using EDIS as your spark output right?
is everything wired into EDIS like this
also these settings
Settings/MegaTune
In TunerStudioMS, set:
Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration),
Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not
recommended),
Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated',
Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS',
Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt).
Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)
Set the predictor algorithm option to 'last interval'.
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 04:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
It drops back down because you don't have a check valve in your fuel line, but if you do and fuel pressure drops like a rock then that points to
a stuck injector.
4 bar fuel pressure is pretty high, you need 3 bar, but that might come down as you get vacuum from then the engine starts.
What I would do is disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and then set fuel pressure to 3 bar.
You should be reading the MAP sensor from the gauge in tunerstudio because this is what the ECU sees the map MAP is.
Hi No vacuum pipe connected as this is as recommended for a non turbo setup
which guage is it , fuel load ?
don't think too much fuel at this stage would stop it firing but no spark deffo a problem 
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 04:45 PM |
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There should be a dedicated MAP gauge, right click on a gauge, sensor input 1, Engine MAP
Are you getting an RPM signal whilst cranking? that is step 1
I don't know if using EDIS gives you a tooth log, I expect it does, if so, do a tooth log whilst cranking by going to diagnostics, and selecting
tooth logger from the drop down menu. Click start and crank for a few seconds.
You are looking for a load of mid length bars, and then one that is twice the size of the others. If you get one twice the size and then another one
right after that is half way between the big bar and the little bars, your VR sensor is connected the wrong way round.
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 05:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
There should be a dedicated MAP gauge, right click on a gauge, sensor input 1, Engine MAP
Are you getting an RPM signal whilst cranking? that is step 1
I don't know if using EDIS gives you a tooth log, I expect it does, if so, do a tooth log whilst cranking by going to diagnostics, and selecting
tooth logger from the drop down menu. Click start and crank for a few seconds.
You are looking for a load of mid length bars, and then one that is twice the size of the others. If you get one twice the size and then another one
right after that is half way between the big bar and the little bars, your VR sensor is connected the wrong way round.
Map gauge installed reading 110 kpa so fine ?
No RPM whilst cranking ...
no response at all from tooth logger .
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 05:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
You are using EDIS as your spark output right?
is everything wired into EDIS like this
also these settings
Settings/MegaTune
In TunerStudioMS, set:
Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration),
Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not
recommended),
Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated',
Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS',
Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt).
Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)
Set the predictor algorithm option to 'last interval'.
trigger offset 0
rising edge
where is cranking trigger ?
where is coil charging?
trigger wheel teeth Thought it was 0 but can't find the adjustment
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 05:21 PM |
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The picture I was referencing to is here about half way down the page
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
So there is your problem. Where are you getting your 12v from for the EDIS, megasquirt won't turn on the fuel pump without seeing an RPM whilst
cranking.
Swap over your VR sensor wires and see if that does it.
Note that EDIS will happily make a spark without your megasquirt ECU, so it is all in the EDIS wiring.
Check that you are getting 12v on the positive whilst cranking.
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 05:27 PM |
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Not sure where those settings are, I just copied it from another web page, but like I said, megasquirt has nothing to do with the EDIS module creating
a spark, it just changes the timing.
How much of a gap do you have between your VR sensor and the trigger wheel, about 1mm should be fine. EDIS needs an AC voltage of over 0.5v from the
VR sensor.
Basically, as long as EDIS has a good power and ground and your coilpack has good power to the centre pin which I assume it does. Then the problem
lies in the VR sensor signal.
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 06:04 PM |
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Rigged up a vr plug crossover and it struck up briefly when doing a tooth log 
now we are getting somewhere .Thanks for all your help so far
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 06:08 PM |
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Okay great, if you are getting a cranking RPM, then you should be getting a spark from the EDIS module.
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 11:06 PM |
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Now I've swapped the VR cables over, the car quite happy to idle lumpily once tickled for a couple of minutes . Running seriously rich I think
and the new exhaust bandage smoking like a wet bonfire covered in diesel. so tomorrow I can check the locked timing and trim accordingly before
reverting to table, then let loose with VE analyse to get some better readings and running . I can sort out the fidle valve at a later date .
A truly heart felt thanks to all contributions so far, especially Dave for metaphorically holding my hand all afternoon you're a star 
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 11:17 PM |
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SUCCESS! one thing I have read about the auto tune feature which is what I think you are talking about, is that people only recommend it when you
already have a pretty good map, but from what I can see from the way it works, if you have your AFR table set correctly and how quickly it makes
it's adjustments, it should work pretty well.
As a 20 year old student who has finished this years exams, and don't need to go back to uni until mid September, I have PLENTY of time on my
hands.
Seeing as though you have a wideband it should be pretty easy for you to tune your VE table, get it idling around 14.5-15.0 about 13ish on medium
throttle and 12.5 on full throttle and it should be pretty drivable. There is all of the other trick settings like acceleration enrichment which stops
the stumble when you snap open the throttle (Especially on ITB's) warmup enrichments etc.
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Valtra
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 11:36 PM |
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You're the same age as my son and have an amazing amount of knowledge about MS for one so young . hope you find time for "Come dine with
me" as well 
[Edited on 11/5/13 by Valtra]
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 04:37 PM |
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Car running better once fuel pressure dropped to 3 bar and ignition map engaged . Just warming up and lead light cable touched the exhaust . Which
threw the trip once the ecu had fried and my laptop power supply also ....... I didn't have words left to say .
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 05:00 PM |
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That sucks big time. And you were doing so well, are you sure the ECU is fried? weird that it would also affect your laptop power supply also. Did any
of the fuses go?
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Valtra
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 06:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
That sucks big time. And you were doing so well, are you sure the ECU is fried? weird that it would also affect your laptop power supply also. Did any
of the fuses go?
Hi yes ecu is fried , had the circuit board under a magnifying glass and mains obviously zipped into one of the earths and did enough damage to render
it dead . So far haven't found any other damage anywhere on the car not even a blown fuse. Laptop was rendered confused but rebooted OK but
won't take mains power so probably killed the socket (which was temperamental anyway) will need to strip it this evening to see if it can be
fixed before the battery dies and all the data is lost
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 06:29 PM |
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Wow, I'm not too sure if you can do repairs to microsquirt ECU's but this guy http://www.megasquirtuk.co.uk/ can do repairs in the UK
Almost had an oops myself today, was running my engine and had some nuts and bolts on my rear spoiler which sits over the top of the throttle bodies,
the vibration almost dropped a load of m6 nuts into my open throttle bodies.
Any idea what you are going to do? replacement microsquirt?
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Valtra
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| posted on 12/5/13 at 08:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
Wow, I'm not too sure if you can do repairs to microsquirt ECU's but this guy http://www.megasquirtuk.co.uk/ can do repairs in the UK
Almost had an oops myself today, was running my engine and had some nuts and bolts on my rear spoiler which sits over the top of the throttle bodies,
the vibration almost dropped a load of m6 nuts into my open throttle bodies.
Any idea what you are going to do? replacement microsquirt?
Not got a lot of choice really , I'll have to buy a new ecu . The PCB is so tiny I doubt it could be repaired economically . I hope trigger
wheels in Ely have one in stock and I'll have to swallow the £280 and put it down to experience . Just ripping my laptop apart now to see if
that can be salvaged.: (
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 09:54 AM |
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we can repair ANY megasquirt ECU, including PCB damage.
Max cost £150.
Cheaper than buying a new one!!
if you bring you car to us for mapping we will repair the ECU and map the car for £350.
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Valtra
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
we can repair ANY megasquirt ECU, including PCB damage.
Max cost £150.
Cheaper than buying a new one!!
if you bring you car to us for mapping we will repair the ECU and map the car for £350.
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Thanks
Hi
Thanks but I doubt it can be repaired by a human being as the entire board would fit comfortably inside .my phone screen the blitzed component is
smaller than a match head and has about 12 wires coming out. I'll take a macro photo later if I get a chance . Where are you based?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 01:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Valtra
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
we can repair ANY megasquirt ECU, including PCB damage.
Max cost £150.
Cheaper than buying a new one!!
if you bring you car to us for mapping we will repair the ECU and map the car for £350.
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Thanks
Hi
Thanks but I doubt it can be repaired by a human being as the entire board would fit comfortably inside .my phone screen the blitzed component is
smaller than a match head and has about 12 wires coming out. I'll take a macro photo later if I get a chance . Where are you based?
We are in Telford TF12 5EZ
Is you ECU totally dead? and comms? is there 5v on the TPS Ref wire?
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Valtra
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 01:52 PM |
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Not got good 3g here and not near car . But no comms for sure
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 08:13 PM |
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As you can see from these pics repair is not really possible with a soldering iron that is one new penny for scale . you may be able to see the
ampaseal pin has burned out and severed the silver line leading from it on the pcb and flipping it over reveals the damaged component on the top of
the board . Hopefully the house RCB tripping out saved anything else including me . But the laptop will no longer take a charge despite booting back
up seemingly without any other issues . Hoping I can put the hard drive straight into its' near identical replacement , but sods law says it
won't work properly . good fun!
 
burned out pin ,
 
get your tweezers out
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 08:28 PM |
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If those are the only components/parts that are fried, then it can be saved, anyone with a good de-soldering knowledge would be able to replace that
chip and those burnt out traces could be fixed with a surface wire connecting the two points.
All is not lost..
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Valtra
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| posted on 13/5/13 at 08:46 PM |
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Ok gobsmacked if you think that is repairable
Perhaps it's just my fading eyes then , May be worth sending it for repair then selling it on or selling it " in need of repair" for
somebody with good eyes a steady hand and small tweezers .
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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