Tatey
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 07:21 AM |
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Car Reliability
My Haynes Roadster passed its IVA test a few weeks and I gave it a good run out at Blyton Park a week ago without any problems.
I am keen to get my car as reliable as possible so when I do some longer roadtrips in the future I hopefully have the most chance of a problem free
trip!
Does anyone have any advice as to what the typical faults are on a seven style car?
My car has a 1.8l silvertop, zx6r bike carbs, type 9 gearbox and Sierra running gear if that helps at all.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 07:43 AM |
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My car (OK, a spitfire, st170/t9 box, scooby diff) has done 3 1/2K in the last few weeks.
The only issue I had was a failed crank spigot bearing (felt like a stuck clutch, but released and was OK, found when I pulled the box to check)
I have very few issues, the previous one was 3 years ago when a prop UJ failed. That was down partly to prop angles too big, now corrected.
Anyway, having played with classic cars etc for 30 years, the most common issues are down to poor quality parts. Typically alternators, electric fuel
pumps, and people cutting corners when doing jobs. Latest issue will be unbranded fuel hoses, ebay hoses are often fake and lead to cracks/leaks.
I try to use genuine OEM parts whenever possible. I certainly would not touch an unbranded or recon alternator with a bargepole.
Likewise electrical connections. They need to be well made and I have a dislike for insulated crimps, much preferring the uninsulated type, made with
teh correct tool and fitting an insulated boot after, or heatshrink.
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SJ
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 10:07 AM |
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I've had a couple of exhaust mounts crack. I wasn't using an appropriate material to make them from.
Other than that not had anything go wrong during a journey since building it in 2006.
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James
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 11:44 AM |
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Not much has gone wrong with mine.
I broke down twice with blockage in the fuel filter- turned out to be the sealant I'd used on the fuel tank (where cut the fuel gauge in the
wrong place!!!) that I was assured was fuel proof, in fact wasn't. It turned to liquid goo and dribbled into the tank and got sucked up like
black worms. Fortunately trapped in the filters!
Also, my alternator tensioning bolt came loose. Can't remember why.
Here's a tip. Try and build/repair as much of the car as possible with 1 tool kit. Then, you know you only need to take that one toolkit with
you and you can do any job beside the road! 
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 04:07 PM |
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Buy a spare set of sensors or take them off cars in breakers (do test them) as that's what goes wrong with modern engines. Then keep them along
with the tools to replace them in the back wrapped up in clean rag.
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ReMan
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 08:14 PM |
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nothing if its put together reasonably well
Puncture kit and a breakdown membership
www.plusnine.co.uk
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 08:37 PM |
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What reman says, though for long trips a take a load of spares.
I look after a few kits at work and common issues are...
Wiring terminals and connectors either badly crimped or getting moisture in and corroding or pulling out. I don't have issues with crimps (done
right) but use glued heat shrink ones solves a lot of those problems.
Custom brackets/mounts breaking. Not a lot you can do.
If you're on carbs, the fuel pumps are a bit temperamental (changed several) I'd make sure its easy to swap and carry one.
Also try and make a list of part numbers or original fitment so you can buy replacements when away. Motor factors won't have a clue without.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/8/21 at 09:03 PM |
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As adithorp says, vibration can be an issue - these cars can be quite harsh over the road, so brackets and fixtures take a pounding. Front mudguard
brackets are a particular weakness.
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