(I've moved this topic from 'Wanted' as I'm now into technical questions! )

If I get a mini wiper assembly (motor, rack and wheel-box things) and wiper arms/blades, what will I need to do to make them suitable for my Locost?

Is spacing going to be right between the two wheel-boxes, or will I have to alter it? If so, is it easy or hard? (I don't mind a bit of mechanical jiggery-pokery!)

I'd guess that the wiper arms will be much too long - are they easy to change, or will I need to get 'proper' ones?

Do they have a special connector, or is it just a few wires?

Anything else I need to consider?

The wiring for the wipwe switch, especially the "park" circuit is very confusing. I suggest you look at this in depth and then scribble it down as soon as you "get it".

Id try to get a complete assembly with switch off ebay and figure out how it all works, what the sweep is etc before you mod it.

You'll need to adjust the tube lengths: just remove, cut to length, clean up and flare the end - it's only a rough flare that is needed, so you don't need any special tools.

Then you'll have to shorten the flexible drive: dremel or the like to cut the end off.

I butchered the existing arms, but later changed them for bought items.

If you decide to reverse the operation, just turn the wheelboxes around.

Take a look at http://nw.rhocar.org/mini_wiper_motor_wiring.htm for wiring details and connector.

Ah, forgot to say, you can get different diameter wheel boxes and/or a different "cam" wheel if you want to change the sweep.

[Edited on 5/7/09 by SteveWalker]

You might need to find the correct driven wheel for the motor which dictates the angle that the wipers move through and IIRC there is more than one type of wheel box spindle length. There was a stand at Newark selling complete new set ups for about £70, can't remember the name of the company though. SVC charge a lot more but can supply everything you need . I used shortened MG Midget wiper arms ,( it's handy having the MG owners club just up the road)

Sounds relatively painless...

I found some very useful info on the SVC site here. - covers the Lucas motor unit. (At the bottom of the page).

[Edited on 5/7/09 by David Jenkins]

You can chop the bundy tubes down without flaring the ends. I think you're supposed to flare them but I didn't bother and no problems (yet!). The wiring makes sense when you realise that "park" is an output not an input... You may get quite disturbing scuttle flex when using the wipers. I did until I re-inforced the scuttle with some fairly chunky glass matt.

The switch is the problem with the wiper thing and park, not the motor. You need a proper Lucas type switch or two switches. Got the wiring, just can't get it to stop grinding. Couldn't flare the bundy tube so only have a flare at one end.

switch is no problem, i used a normal single pole switch,eg "on off 2 terminal"
and used a relay for the park circuit works fine.

Also its common for the connector block that plugs into the motor to get buggered due to water ingress in the minis, i found a new connector at premier wiring services for about £3.

I only had room for the motor passenger side of the scuttle and at first i had left hand drive sweep and park,as said earlier flip the wheel boxes over and you get right hand drive sweep.

surrey dave has some good info on his site for measurements on a book scuttle for spacing.

How do people flare the bundy tube? I have flaring tool, but it doesn't do anything to the end.

Also how can you straighten the steel tubing? I have copper tubing I could try, but I couldn't flare it.

The bundy tube is pretty strong and making the flare was probably the hardest part of the project but they will flare under pressure, the same for straightening of which i found the engineering vice came in handy but take it easy.

Just looked on surrey daves website and sadly the ifo required isnt there, if you drop dave a u2u i am sure he will oblige.

Why go toall the hassle of wrecking the flares that you already have?
Just cut the tube in the middle to the correct length, sleeve & weld.

David , if you need to put some flares on the bundy tubing I have a flaring tool for the job.

Thanks Bob et al, but for me, I don't find that quite descriptive enough!! Have no idea what you are talking about!! Sorry! Bending tube: How? flaring tube: How? Flaring tool is useless.

As said the flares are not easy and ben managed without, i had an attempt with the double flare tool but found locking the pipe in the vice between two pices of wood (grooved to accept the tube to prevent colapse) and using a large punch and hammer.

I have no welder so pauls idea didnt cross my mind of cut n shut with a welded outer sleeve.

I was wondering about putting the tube in my lathe and spinning out a flare. I've done this on copper and ali tube, but not on harder stuff.

Another question for anyone who knows: is the sweep angle OK on standard Mini wipers?

David,
What about the setup used on many euroboxes which have crank & link assemblies?
Just my .02c...
John.

I remember the sweep of the wheel boxes on the mini wipers question was asked some time ago, i seem to remember some wheel boxes have the sweep marked in degrees on the base. 112 degrees but i'm not exactly positive,could even have been 122 so i'll keep digging through my trash ( i mean files)

I couldnt even remember it was me that asked the question way back in 02

windscreen wiper sweep link

I just ordered the shortened and flared tubes from Caterham. At about 1,5 pounds each I didn't feel like having a go myself.

quote:

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Originally posted by MautoK
David,
What about the setup used on many euroboxes which have crank & link assemblies?
Just my .02c...
John.

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quote:

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Originally posted by David Jenkins

quote:

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Originally posted by MautoK
David,
What about the setup used on many euroboxes which have crank & link assemblies?
Just my .02c...
John.

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Now that's a thought...

Can you suggest any suitable cars?

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quote:

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Originally posted by MautoK

Great advantage is that it's a self-contained assembly and should take care of operating stresses within itself rather than the cyclic torque loadings transferring to a relatively fragile f/glass scuttle.
HTH
John.

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