I decided to build a 1 piece flip up front end, I built a mold, did 2 layers, and took it out. It fit perfectly on my chassis. Now I'm just
strengthening it, how many layers should I use? I have 4 layers on it now, Anyone have any experience with this, and can give me some advice?
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Why go to all that trouble?......damn sure it would have been cheaper and a lot less hassle to have bought the bodywork
quote:
Originally posted by derf
I decided to build a 1 piece flip up front end, I built a mold, did 2 layers, and took it out. It fit perfectly on my chassis. Now I'm just strengthening it, how many layers should I use? I have 4 layers on it now, Anyone have any experience with this, and can give me some advice?
Derf, are u intending to use that as a "plug" to take the mould from or is that the finished nose/bonnet? If it is u have given yourself a
lot of work
either way. Depending on size the molds are 3 to 7 ish times the thickness in lay up of the finished article that comes out of it, and
allowing for a return edge or flange would most likely be a sectional mold that pops apart to get the finished item out. In short the construction and
quality of mould dictates how many pulls u will get off of it.
Shug.
This is a one off piece, no more will be built. I was going to sand down the outside, then fill any voids with resin, sand, and then a thin layer of
bondo. So far with 4 layers on I have spent less than $150, this will include the same areas that are the nose, hood/bonnet, and dash/scuttle. I was
planing on having a flat lip all around the lower edge, and a nice strong mount point for the lower part of the nose. I was going to make a wooden jig
for that. I also need to buid a flat area for the dash, and a lip for the hood to sit on, but after I finish the nose. The piece still needs to be
cut, beause I built the scuttle with the hood to ensure they both have the same outside dimensions. The only thing left after I finish the exterior
mold is the partitions from engine to scuttle and scuttle to passenger compartment.
The only thing is that eaxch layer takes a bit more than 1 gallon to complete, and the Home depots in my area are running low, because someone bought
it all.
Derf
I take it u are using the brush and stippling effect as u build layers of CSM and resin, for future use u might think of applying the resin mixture on
top of the csm by using a 6" sheepskin roller similar to a painting roller, have u used a consolidating disc or paddle roller on the surface of
the laminates? When you get round to filling the voids I would suggest using standard poly body filler rather than resin, when flatting it back to the
final profile dont forget to use a good quality dustmask
regards
Shug.
When I said voids, I meant air pockets, I'll fill the air pockets with resin, then fill any low spots with body filler.
you are aware that isnt the conventional way to make a grp part?
see my web site for more if needed.
atb
steve
ps - i used 5 layers of 150gm mat
I tried to look at your site, and couldnt, I'm gonna try it again when I get home from work.
you just take the s from locostbuilders - its almost the same url as this site.
btw - im no 'glass expert - but im learning.
AlanB and syd bridge are more clued up than me
atb
steve
Ok, I just couldnt see your page from work, I looked at it from my home PC. I have to say that Ive seen Alan's, and now yours, and am quite impressed by the results of both. Having said that I am just not that motivated, I dont have the patients to make a buck then make a female mold then make a male plug and seperate to get the final piece. I just recycled a bunch of insulating foam from a new house construction area, made the amle mold, and layed down the glass on that, 2 layers later i removed it and added a few more layers. I know it's not the right way of doing it, and in the long run (with sanding and finish prep work it will be much more time spent to get it right, but it will be alot cheaper.
Interesting approach, Derf, sort of semi-buckless construction.
To pass on an idea I got from another builder, you can form the flange on the bottom edge by simply laying the piece down on your choice of non-sticky
flat surface and building up from the inside. Some of the white laminate from Home Depot would be fine.
I wouldn't put any more layers on until you do the lips and flanges and whatnot, as you're probably pretty close 
Pete
Here is a link with a finishing end to one off fiberglass that I plan on trying as my body work is different for the front and rear. It uses dacron
as a peel layor to get a much smoother surface to put a skim coat of filler on to .
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Body/Play_With_Fiberglass/
Dale
Pbubar, thats what I was planning on doing, except I am wanted to use industrial plastic pallet wrap. I find this stuff doesnt stick to glass, the only problem is that it doesnt let the side it touches dry either. But I found that with a layer of resin over the wet resin it hardens it right up. I had no problem seperatingmmy mold from the glass piece. All theats really left is the finish work, lots of time sanding, and getting it right, I wouldnt be surprised it it take 3-4 times as much time to finish.
quote:
Originally posted by Dale
Here is a link with a finishing end to one off fiberglass that I plan on trying as my body work is different for the front and rear. It uses dacron as a peel layor to get a much smoother surface to put a skim coat of filler on to .
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Body/Play_With_Fiberglass/
Dale