I hope this fits in to the Forum although strictly speaking it is not a Special; only a special body.
I have recently restored a MK3 GT6 and I really love the shape and lines of the bodywork. I originally bought the GT6 to use as a pattern for my new
project; an aluminium replica body but it was so good I had no alternative but to put it back on the road for the first time since 1989 so losing my
pattern but in return, deriving a great deal of pleasure both in the restoration and the 7000 miles of driving since April last year including two
continental holidays.
As luck would have it, I located a MK3 bodyshell locally which has proved ideal for my purpose. I also have a tax exempt MK4 Spitfire onto which I am
going to fit the new body.
I'm going to make a tubular steel frame to support the bodywork but for the last few days just to get back into the swing of metal shaping, I
have formed some panels for the roof.
So although I have nothing in place as yet to support the roof, I'm going to finish it and then build the frame to suit.
John
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/1/13 by John Bonnett]
Can't wait to see more of this! Epic!
Good work but will an aluminium body be strong enough in a crash, the steel ones arnt all that strong in the first place, the spitfire chassis is very much inside the parameter of the bodywork so you can't rely on that. My brother in law has a red spitfire which I use quite often in the summer, it's a fun car if a bit low and the bonnet shakes a lot
Triumph made some lovely shaped cars, you have a hefty challenge there.
Which version you after, I prefer the mkII myself.
One car that I would really like is the TR4a, mint ones look fantastic
Tegwin, yes I know it's an ambitious project but I'm hoping I have enough hours left not only to finish it but to enjoy driving it.
Whippy What's with these negative thoughts? If we worried about the consequences of crashing we'd never drive anything other than a Volvo
Mark I'm afraid it's going to be based on a MK3 GT6. It's very subjective I know, but perhaps unlike the majority I prefer the shape to
the earlier roundtails.
So, a little bit more detail which I hope will put my friend Mr Whippy's mind at rest. I'm using the steel floorpan from a MK4 Spitfire and
onto that I'll fabricate a tubular steel frame that will provide a safe and rigid support for the aluminium bodywork. The advantage of using the
steel floorpan is that it provides the strength of the sills, needed by the chassis and of course the mountings for the standard seats. The bonnet too
will have a supporting frame from which it will derive rigidity..
It is my intention to arrange things so that the standard bonnet and doors will fit my frame so if I sense that time is running out I can take a
couple of shortcuts to get the car on the road.
Thank you for your interest and your replies. I'll keep you up to date with more pictures as the project unfolds.
John
A really excellent project. Where did you pick up the skills to hand make body panels, it's an incredible and a rare skill ?
quote:
Originally posted by Not Anumber
A really excellent project. Where did you pick up the skills to hand make body panels, it's an incredible and a rare skill ?
MkII does have a nice round bottom, they spoilt them with the mkIV
Good choice then, very hard to make matching sides, you must have a nice big English wheel then.
In the dim and distant past I had a Spitfire 4, the first model they made and came with a works steel hard top.
When it came to fitting it after summer........, I had to put my back against the windscreen and feet on the rear bulkhead to stretch the living
area to fit it....................The good old days..................
Very much in the spirit of Locostbuilders
"I do it cause I can"
Now then what engine and running gear?
There's an opportunity to sort the rear end out and put a bit more power under the vast bonnet
Great project - have subscribed to the thread.
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
Very much in the spirit of Locostbuilders
"I do it cause I can"
Now then what engine and running gear?
There's an opportunity to sort the rear end out and put a bit more power under the vast bonnet
Couldn't you change the engine on the V5 now? Engine swops happen all the time!
Good to have you back, John. Whatever the project your skills are always worth looking at.
Like Roger said, change the v5 first. But I think it should at least be another 6pot... Otherwise it'd be just a GT4. Have you seen Claire's
MX5 THREAD ?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
Very much in the spirit of Locostbuilders
"I do it cause I can"
Now then what engine and running gear?
There's an opportunity to sort the rear end out and put a bit more power under the vast bonnet
Ah, now there's the problem. I'm doing my best to avoid IVA and if I modify the chassis by altering suspension points or don't qualify for the mandatory eight points by not having retained sufficient mechanical components, it would have to go through the test.
Adi and Rusty, very good to hear from you and thank you for your good wishes. We just need 907 to come and join the party
Yes Claire's workmanship and skill is absolutely awesome and all apparently accomplished with consummate ease!
You are both absolutely right in what you say both about the engine change and ways of improving the rear suspension. But for the moment at least all
my attention is totally focussed on the bodywork. One of the many problems I have as someone with very limited skills is trying to reproduce crisp
coachlines that have, on the pattern, been pressed in and I am already considering taking a broader approach and rather than an exact replica produce
a body that is inspired by.... if you see what I mean. If you go back to pre-war times, panels generally didn't have sharp creases, were more
rounded, and easier to reproduce by hand. The decision was made when looking at the side roof section as picture
The line is as sharp as I can make it but not good enough and no matter how well the rest of the body turns out to be, the eye would always be drawn
to that coachline. So easiest is to leave it out and continue the curve of the roof down to the gutter. There may well be similar decisions taken with
the rear wings and on other parts. We'll see how things progress.
It is really good to be back amongst my friends the Locosters and to be involved in metal shaping once again. It really is addictive!
John
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Would the chassis need modding if the transverse leaf spring was replaced with a wish bone mounting bolted to the diff instead?Might take a bit of thinking out to work but it could be done ?
Keep up the good work John
[Edited on 26/1/13 by rusty nuts]
ISTR there used to be a leaf spring to decamber the rear suspension, possible from a company called SAH that was supposed to improve the rear suspension?? I've never really looked at the rear suspension with modifying in mind but would have thought that it would be possible to maybe attach a lightweight subframe with suspension attached that would not need to be IVA'd?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Adi and Rusty, very good to hear from you and thank you for your good wishes. We just need 907 to come and join the party
John
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Adi and Rusty, very good to hear from you and thank you for your good wishes. We just need 907 to come and join the party
John
Hi John,
There was a time, when at the mere mention of a party my three word answer would have been; "Mine's a double."
Sadly, my answer now is; "Two sugars", although that's not strictly true.
"Two sweeteners" is nearer the mark.
As for crisp lines I would say, if a jobs worth doing it's worth doing well. Better to find a method of sharpening the lines
than making compromises that at the end of the job your "heart of hearts" isn't happy with.
I made 4 rear arches before I was confident enough to make a mirror image one for the other side of my car.
Life is a learning curve, and metal shaping even more so.
I now consider myself in the 40th year of my apprenticeship and still learn something every day.
All the best John,
Paul G
This is a picture which shows the coachline I'm referring to.
[img][/img]
I don't think it adds anything and in actual fact a progressive curve might be visually more pleasing. So,I formed quite a nice a sub panel
omitting the coachline but it was ruined it when I turned the flange for the base of the gutter and no amount of shrinking made it any better.
I'm still unable to upload any photographs which is perhaps just as well. So, my next plan is to form the gutter separately and weld it onto the
sub panel.
All part of the learning curve
I've made some good progress and have now nearly finished wheeling the main roof panel and the two sub panels. Unfortunately, I've been
unable to upload any pictures.
They say that a low crown panel is among the most difficult to form and my aching arms and shoulders wouldn't argue with that. But, a great
feeling that the roof is done and ready to weld together.
can you put the pictures some where else for us to have a look?
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Good work but will an aluminium body be strong enough in a crash, the steel ones arnt all that strong in the first place, the spitfire chassis is very much inside the parameter of the bodywork so you can't rely on that. My brother in law has a red spitfire which I use quite often in the summer, it's a fun car if a bit low and the bonnet shakes a lot
I've put a couple of pictures on flkr showing the sub panels that are nearly ready to be trimmed and then welded together.
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/67580543@N08/8471773818/[/img]
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/67580543@N08/8470676613/[/img]
I was hoping that they would open automatically but I don't think they will
I've included the full address of the photos
Like it. Subscribed to the thread.
Ian
quote:
Originally posted by Riskyshift
Like it. Subscribed to the thread.
Ian
quote:
Originally posted by deezee
I've included the full address of the photos
I used to think I was a bit too fussy getting things correct, your work makes everything that I have ever done look like a bodge
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used to think I was a bit too fussy getting things correct, your work makes everything that I have ever done look like a bodge
I was hoping to have all the roof panels finished by now and ready for welding but have suffered a bit of a delay.
I'm getting a bit old and senile and the first thing I didn't notice was that I had turned the flange for the gully (N/S tailgate gully) up
instead of down and to make matters worse, the lower wheel on the jenny had slipped backwards so that I had two knife edges top and bottom instead of
just at the top. Result was a wonderfully crisp fold but a deep score as well. So no chance of reversing the fold and therefore, I had no choice but
to bin the panel and start again. The good news is that its replacement completed in a fraction of the time, is actually a truer shape than its
predecessor and the flange turned down properly this time; nice fold and the right way. So not all bad. Just the lower horizontal to make now and then
time for trimming and welding.
what wheeling machine do you have ?
any pics ...?
+ 1
It would be very good to see the equipment you are using to fabricate these remarkable curved panels and even better to have a few pictures of you
actually using it.
I'm afraid my equipment's not very impressive
But in my workshop I have an Edwards wheeling machine, a shrinker/stretcher and a beading machine or jenny. I don't have any motorised or power
tools like and Eckold or Pullmax.
Anyway here is my E.Wheel
And a couple of pictures showing the lower tailgate aperture panel being developed. I wheeled a bit of curvature into it before turning the flange on
the jenny.
This is a picture showing the jenny with the side panel.
Pictures of lower panel
The next thing is to trim and turn down the flange for the gutter
Well it started off quite well but went wrong at the end. I may be able to save it but most likely will start again after a bit of a rest.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8365/8560351208_4efec61f07.jpg
[Edited on 15/3/13 by John Bonnett]
I have indeed started again and changed the approach to make it a bit easier. The crease on the bottom edge will now be in the deck panel rather than
this one. This has simplified things no end because the gutter return and the crease no longer have to be perfectly aligned.
Suffered a small set-back after having welded the lower gutter section onto the side roof panel I noticed that along its entire length, the weld was
full of porosity; loads of tiny pinholes. Serves me right for using four year old flux! The odd thing is that the test pieces were fine.
I mentioned this to Trev D and strangely enough, using the same make of flux, he has also had problems but in his case cracking of the weld. I've
been recommended a really good flux from TM Technology which I have just ordered up This is coming from the States so there could be a delay before I
can crack on.
hello john
is the crack at the start of the weld bead,or further in.
quote:
Originally posted by boober
hello john
is the crack at the start of the weld bead,or further in.
Do you have photos of the weld and other progress? I ask because I have no idea how a body is made like this and have found this a very interesting thread.
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Do you have photos of the weld and other progress? I ask because I have no idea how a body is made like this and have found this a very interesting thread.
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Suffered a small set-back after having welded the lower gutter section onto the side roof panel I noticed that along its entire length, the weld was full of porosity; loads of tiny pinholes. Serves me right for using four year old flux! The odd thing is that the test pieces were fine.
I mentioned this to Trev D and strangely enough, using the same make of flux, he has also had problems but in his case cracking of the weld. I've been recommended a really good flux from TM Technology which I have just ordered up This is coming from the States so there could be a delay before I can crack on.
good camera skills john do you do weddings
quote:
Originally posted by boober
good camera skills john do you do weddings
How do you chose where to join the panels? when you flatten the welds does that not reshape the panel?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
How do you chose where to join the panels? when you flatten the welds does that not reshape the panel?
With all the roof panels formed, I'm now at the welding together stage so progress is being made; albeit slow.
I've just completed welding the roof panels together and, amazingly, the assembly fits the buck so, happy days. There was hardly any distortion
during the welding process which was an unexpected bonus.
I'm now faced with a job that I find really challenging; even more than the welding. The metal finishing, bringing up the lows and planishing to
a nice smooth curvature. Hammer and dolly in the hands of a professional looks so easy but what job doesn't when carried out by a skilled man?
Work has been progressing steadily with many hours spent bringing up the lows on the roof. We are not quite there yet but there has to be a point at
which one says, that's good enough. I'm not quite at that point yet but not far off.
The panel rear of the quarter light was an interesting one to make with the reverse curve. I managed that one okay but I now have to make another one
for the other side and I always find the second one more difficult.
The three tailgate aperture panels are now welded but I can't weld them to the roof until I've finished the planishing but more importantly
until the panels immediately beneath are in place to provide rigidity.
A few pictures attached.
looks lovely. are you going to leave the rain gutter / seam on your body?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
looks lovely. are you going to leave the rain gutter / seam on your body?
A bit more progress. I've made the rear quarter light aperture and the gutter, side panel and the aperture are now all welded up. Attached are a
few pictures bringing everything up to date. Let's hope the other side goes as well as this one!
Stunning work!
Can I ask a stupid question?
Since you are using the steel body as a buck won't it end up a few mm bigger than the original car? Therefore standard glass etc may not fit?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Stunning work!
Can I ask a stupid question?
Since you are using the steel body as a buck won't it end up a few mm bigger than the original car? Therefore standard glass etc may not fit?
Ah good. I will tell the Mrs I'm not as stupid as I look!
John,
Hadn't noticed the updates typo this thread for a little while. Looking very good. Is that a timber hammerform that was used to make the quarter
window aperture?
quote:
Originally posted by TheGecko
John,
Hadn't noticed the updates typo this thread for a little while. Looking very good. Is that a timber hammerform that was used to make the quarter window aperture?
Nothing spectacular to report but progress has been made. The passenger side quarter light panel is now formed together with the quarter light
aperture. Today, the associated gutter was made. In order to fit the window aperture it is necessary first to remove the steel one because they are
the same size as each other. This entails removing the spot welds; a job I'm not yet comfortable with. I've caused a fair bit of damage
mostly to myself
A couple more pictures to bring everything up to date. Apart from welding the panel surrounding the tailgate aperture to the main roof this part of
the body is pretty much there.
[Edited on 12/5/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 12/5/13 by John Bonnett]
Looking FANTASTIC!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Looking FANTASTIC!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Looking FANTASTIC!
Happy to see this pop up on here, the GT6 Mk3 is my dream classic to own/re-build one day. Very much looking forward to seeing the finished results!
With the roof just about done, we've reached the stage where I'm going to do my own bit of styling. The square tail and the external seams
are going to disappear along with the pronounced haunch of the rear wing just aft of the B post. I've just sourced a complete bodyshell, (well a
complete GT6 actually although in pieces) onto which I can hang the doors to see how the design will "Flow"
The picture shows the rear of a MK3 GT6 (not mine) and the taper of the cabin area flowing into a fairly flat deck which meets the flange of the rear
wing. I'm going to try mimic this curve in the rear wings. The panel immediately below the tailgate will continue to slope down rather than
becoming horizontal after the crease; something along the lines of an E Type.
So, a bit of thought and work to make a buck before any more panel work but I'll update as more progress is made.
[Edited on 14/5/13 by John Bonnett]
Although it has been several months since updating, work has never stopped and the project is progressing well. Main reason for not posting is my
inability to insert full size pictures. But until somebody lets me into the secret this is the best I can do.
Description
With the outer skin removed the skeleton stiffening structure was shot blasted and primed. This revealed a lot more corrosion than expected with the
knock-on effect of increasing the cost and time and blowing the budget out of the water. But, undeterred, we ploughed on.
I mentioned earlier that I'm taking a bit of licence with the design of the GT6 and making the rear end a bit more tapering and curvaceous.
Rear wing buck
Description
I have recently acquired a pneumatic planishing hammer which has turned out to be one of the best buys I have ever made. It is very controllable and
great for raising lows and shaping parts that are too small to wheel. Another benefit is that the air tool can be demounted and used on its own for
flow forming. I made the number plate panel using it.
Description
After a lot of thought I decided on round rear lights comprising inners and outer rings which can be LED. These are from the
"Mix'n'Match range from Stafford. In order to mount them on my panel I rolled some cylinders and cut end plates. These were TIG welded
together.
Description
Description
I've now wheeled up quite a few panels but not yet ready to weld together.
Description
The rear wings are bolt on and here is the arrangement showing the captive screws
Description
The shaped angle is ready to be welded to the wing panel.
Description
Description
More to follow
[Edited on 28/9/13 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 28/9/13 by John Bonnett]
Wow John this is awesome you have so much skill it unreal lol I wish I had that kind of skill top job John it looks mint
quote:
Originally posted by imp paul
Wow John this is awesome you have so much skill it unreal lol I wish I had that kind of skill top job John it looks mint
Awesome!
It's really starting to come together. The back end looks fantastic! Well done!
Thats looking fantastic, excellent work!
To insert full size pics what I do is:
Once the picure in is your archive, click into it to open it.
Right click to see the properties of the picture and save the properties to the clipboard
Go back to your post and click the "add image" yellow icon.
Paste the properties into the box that opens and enter
It helps to have the website open twice in 2 windows so youc can jump between your archive and the post you are working in.
Thier probabably is an easier way but that works for me
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 28/9/13 by Fred W B]
it sounds like your doing the same as me john, its all in my head and i just keep going ,and hope it turns out good mate but thats very cool love it mate
quote:
Originally posted by Fred W B
Thats looking fantastic, excellent work!
To insert full size pics what I do is:
Once the picure in is your archive, click into it to open it.
Right click to see the properties of the picture and save the properties to the clipboard
Go back to your post and click the "add image" yellow icon.
Paste the properties into the box that opens and enter
It helps to have the website open twice in 2 windows so youc can jump between your archive and the post you are working in.
Thier probabably is an easier way but that works for me
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 28/9/13 by Fred W B]
Just to prove to myself that I can now attach a full size picture here we go.
I just love the bonnet on this car and will do my best to make something along the same lines for the project. I particularly like the feature near
the windscreen that allows hot air to escape from the engine compartment and to blow onto the windscreen.
[Edited on 28/9/13 by John Bonnett]
So, when are you making me a bodyshell for mine?
quote:
Originally posted by PhillipM
So, when are you making me a bodyshell for mine?
does you friend have an hourly rate ? contact no ?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
If you really want one I'm sure my friend Mark would be pleased to make whatever you'd like
quote:
Originally posted by Volvorsport
does you friend have an hourly rate ? contact no ?
Looks amasing
Quality - Keep the pictures coming John...
I love the time effort and skill involved in this project, well impressed.
However I do find it sad that 'once upon a time' we had a country full of such skills and now they are just relegated to a few people
working in sheds and garages.
quote:
Originally posted by TheGiantTribble
I love the time effort and skill involved in this project, well impressed.
However I do find it sad that 'once upon a time' we had a country full of such skills and now they are just relegated to a few people working in sheds and garages.
The return is now ready for welding to the quarter light panel and with the main wing panel bolted in place it gives a good idea of how the rear end
will look. It is rather more tapered and rounded than the standard car, even the round tail models. The close up shot shows the wing bolted on but not
nipped up because just out of shot is a double thickness of material awaiting trimming and welding.
[Edited on 12/10/13 by John Bonnett]
Work has been continuing on the steel shell but not much aluminium panel work done since the last post. Mark is doing an incredible job and now the
rear tub is joined to the floor and the scuttle/bulkhead has been trial fitted. Everything is inter-dependant and each part has a knock-on effect with
door gaps and quarter light to windscreen frame gaps. We now have a situation where he is happy and some serious welding can begin very shortly.
When I visited Trev D a month or two ago, his colleague Martin was making a new bonnet for an Alfa TZ (Zagato). I just loved the shape and the curves
of the bonnet and thought how good it would be if fitted to my project. Dimensionally the two bonnets are so close to each other this could be a
reality Well it seems I can help Martin and in return he is going to make me a bonnet skin. This is really exciting and will be the best bit of my
car by a country mile.
WOW that's gorgeous!
Can't wait to see that!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
WOW that's gorgeous!
Can't wait to see that!
I dont think we have spoken on here before John but I have been following your build from the start and its one of those threads that always leaves me
gutted when I reach the end of the latest update. Its totally absorbing not to mention incredible in its detail and your skill and I just love seeing
the parts being formed from scratch. Keep it up and hurry up with the next update
Andy
Can't believe I've only just found this thread,your work is absolutely brilliant
Can't wait to see the finished product !
Thank you all very much for your interest and very kind comments. I'm still very much a novice metal shaper with an awful lot to learn.
Fortunately my mentor Trev is a great inspiration and is very generous in passing on advice. It's probably lucky that he's in Northampton
and I'm in Devon. Any closer and I'd be an even bigger nuisance to him
Once the sills are in place I'll be able to finish the left hand rear wing and make a start on the one the other side. To make things a bit
easier for me I am avoiding putting in the straight creases or coach lines of the original design and sticking to flowing curves which I actually
quite like. I'm not saying that the shape I've conceived is any prettier than the original, just easier for a beginner to cope with.
I'll certainly keep you posted with progress which hopefully will move up a gear once Mark has completed the restoration of the steel shell.
John
Have you decided on an engine yet John?
In a body that's going to be that pretty it has to be at least a V6!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Have you decided on an engine yet John?
In a body that's going to be that pretty it has to be at least a V6!
quote:
Originally posted by keith777
Can't believe I've only just found this thread,your work is absolutely brilliant
Can't wait to see the finished product !
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Mark has overcome all the problems now and has achieved very nice shut lines of the doors against the sills, A post and windscreen. There is still a
way to go yet but the rest should be much for straightforward.
For my part, I have welded the return to the lower wing section and welded the two rear wing section together. Once the sill is on, I can make the
last two pieces to complete the wing.
Hi John
An imaginative project with great workmanship; thanks for posting.
How are you going to mount the aluminium body panels? Keep the underlying steel structure - using aircraft/boatbuilding practice of barrier paste,
such as Duralac ( http://www.intek-uk.com/duralac.htm ) to stop electrolytic action - combined with Monel rivets to make the structural join? Or go
for superleggera approach of lightweight framework of small section steel tubes as used by Touring of Milan for 1950s and 1960s racing, sports racing
and GT cars? ( http://www.velocetoday.com/images/january%2007/gt3a.jpg http://www.registrotouringsuperleggera.com/images/storia02.jpg
http://www.moal.com/04_gallery/11gatto/01.jpg http://images.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2012/04/TouringSuperLeggera_01_1200.jpg )
The project does remind me of 1960s works racing cars, either specialist Le Mans cars such as the works Triumph Spitfire coupes -
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/workscars/default.html&xsl=workscars.xsl - or Austin Healey Sprite based Sprinzel Coupes (for racing
and rallying): http://www.sebringsprite.com/pmo200.html ; or standard bodied cars using aluminium replacement panels to conform to more limited
silhouette racing rules, e.g. http://www.sebringsprite.com/mark2sebrings.html
Your project does remind me of the work of Williams and Pritchard - http://www.williamsandpritchardregister.co.uk/ - who made a range of racing car
bodies for open single seater cars, open and closed racing sports cars for a range of manufacturers e.g. Lotus but also initially for Sprinzel for
Sebring Sprites. Also makes me think of Italian coachbuilders such as Scaglietti, Touring, Betone and Zagato building sports car, sports racing car
and GT bodies on short 'production' runs. The English coachbuilding firms dating from the 1920s and 1930s, e.g. Hooper, Gurney &
Nutting, always seemed to concentrate on large saloon cars and limousines, with only new concerns springing up in the 1950s and 1960s working on
sports and racing car bodywork in both aluminium and fibreglass.
Engine - surely just use the 2litre straight 6 of the GT6 tuned?; or for more torque could put in the 2.5 litre engine from the 2500 saloon. Guess
you've already checked out info on websites: Chris Witor Triumph spares, Canley Classics and Triumph Six Sports Car Club? Also people putting the
2500 engine into Triumph Herald Vitesses.
I enjoyed reading your Fury build blog including all your production engineering - how you solved all the detailed design/fabrication issues for small
components and fitting it together properly. So this project perhaps not such a surprise!
Best wishes
Mike
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 17/11/13 by Mike Wood]
Hello Mike, very nice to hear from you and to read your detailed reply. The Phoenix you mention seems a lifetime away now. It was a big mistake
putting the Cosworth engine in. The sheer weight of the unit spoiled the balance and handling. I believe it now has a K series engine which I imagine
will have transformed it into a much more nimble car. I can never understand why people fit heavy lumps up front in a 7 but perhaps like me, they just
had one!
The GT6 has a steel skeleton frame which I am using to fit the aluminium panels to. I do have Duralac and also some plastic tape which will insulate
the dissimilar metals and help to prevent corrosion. Monel rivets are a good idea too. The roof , tailgate aperture panel and the rear quarter light
panels will all be bonded to the steel frame. The rear wings as you can see will be bolted on. I'm going to fabricate a steel supporting frame
for the bonnet skin but at the moment I've not decided whether to bond or clench. I'm quite excited that Trev D has agreed to make the
bonnet skin for me. It should take several months off the build and it will really enhance the look of the car.
Work is progressing well on the steel shell but still a fair way to go before it is finished. I've formed quite a lot of the panels already and
hopefully it will all come together quite quickly once the shell is done. I don't want to hang around with this project and am looking to have it
on the road by the middle of next year. Spa in May was my target but I don't think that is realistic although I shall try.
I shall be using a Triumph 2.5 litre engine just because I have one. Otherwise, it would be a 2 litre. I also have an overdrive gearbox and a 3.27
diff. The rear suspension will be rotoflex.
I have two more sub-panels to make to complete the rear wing and once they have been formed and welded together the rear left hand three quarter will
be finished.
Will keep the thread updated. Thank you for your interest.
regards
John
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Wood
I enjoyed reading your Fury build blog including all your production engineering - how you solved all the detailed design/fabrication issues for small components and fitting it together properly.
quote:
Originally posted by slingshot2000
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Wood
I enjoyed reading your Fury build blog including all your production engineering - how you solved all the detailed design/fabrication issues for small components and fitting it together properly.
Hi, not wanting to hi-jack the original excellent thread, but can anyone point me towards where I may find the above mentioned blog please?
Regards
Jon
Thanks very much, I will have a browse through that tonight when the rubbish is on the box.
Regards
Jon
Mark has done a fantastic job and the steel shell is pretty much there which is now allowing me to press on and form some more panels.
I took the opportunity today to dust off all the panels that I've made so far and place them in position. Not only is it encouraging it is also a
measure of the progress that has been made.
I have to make two more sub panels to complete the rear wing.
A couple more pieces in place ready for scribing, trimming and welding together. This leaves just the sill extension to make which will then finish
the panels for the rear wing.
Although there is a fair bit of planishing to be done, the left hand rear wing is pretty much there apart from the sill extension piece which should
be fairly straightforward (famous last words!)
I'm making the rear valence in three pieces, the return which fits to the steel boot floor, the centre single curvature piece and the end panels
which have quite a lot of shape. Here are a few pictures which bring everything up to date as of today.
With the Trials car to prepare for the Exeter which is this coming weekend, time has been a bit limited on the project. But, a bit of progress which
is better than no progress. I've formed both ends of the rear valence and welded them to the centre section and the trial fit looks quite
promising. Just the return to weld on and that's the panel finished.
Looks great, what are you planning for the wheel arch shape?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Looks great, what are you planning for the wheel arch shape?
Work on the shell and the panels is still progressing nicely. A bit more remedial work needed to the scuttle but for the shell the end is in sight and
I've broken the back of the panelling. Here are a few pictures bringing everything up to date.
Looks great. Is the body going to stay on this floor pan or are you making a tubula chassis? If it stays on this floor pan how do you deal with galvonic carosan where the steel and aloy meet?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Looks great. Is the body going to stay on this floor pan or are you making a tubula chassis? If it stays on this floor pan how do you deal with galvonic carosan where the steel and aloy meet?
I used duralac with bolts on the Elise should it be used with steel bolts in an alloy block?
The panel work is still progressing quite well with the left hand rear wing finished apart from forming a return to fit the inner wing and B post.
The rear valence has to be welded to the panel adjacent to the tailgate aperture before the number plate panel can be welded on.
[Edited on 26/1/14 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 26/1/14 by John Bonnett]
Really starting to come together now. Looks fantastic!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Really starting to come together now. Looks fantastic!
wow just wow
A little more progress to report with a couple of pictures.
Initially, my idea was to form a scuttle in aluminium hence the reason for using a MK2 bulkhead with the detachable windscreen frame. The plan has now
changed and I intend to stay with the whole thing in steel. I see no reason to keep the screen frame as a detachable item which with rubber seals top
and bottom will always be the source of potential leaks of both rain and wind. So it's going to be welded in permanently which hopefully will add
to the stiffness and integrity of the whole shell. Here are a couple of pictures showing the lower intermediate piece formed to suit the frame and the
scuttle. The scuttle was cut to accept a joddled edge of the mating part leaving a flush joint. The top piece is work in progress and yet to be
finished.
The panel adjacent to the tailgate aperture is now welded to the lower rear valence and the assembly trimmed ready for welding in the number plate
panel.
So tomorrow, is the day set aside to tackle the big challenge (for me) of welding in the number plate panel. I hope to have some more pictures very
soon.
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
The panel work is still progressing quite well with the left hand rear wing finished apart from forming a return to fit the inner wing and B post.
The rear valence has to be welded to the panel adjacent to the tailgate aperture before the number plate panel can be welded on.
[Edited on 26/1/14 by John Bonnett]
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
The panel work is still progressing quite well with the left hand rear wing finished apart from forming a return to fit the inner wing and B post.
The rear valence has to be welded to the panel adjacent to the tailgate aperture before the number plate panel can be welded on.
[Edited on 26/1/14 by John Bonnett]
Looking really good; I notice you have the tailgate attached...any pictures of the rear end with it closed?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Thank you Steve. No at the moment, I don't have a picture of the car with the tailgate shut. In order to get a realistic picture of what it will look like, I really need the back end assembled, perhaps after tomorrow. Let's see how it goes.
The panel is now successfully welded in and because I was able to do a lot of the welding with the assembly fixed to the car everything kept its shape
and the whole job proved to be very much easier than I feared.
I'll post a few more pictures once the panel is planished and fitted back onto the car.
[Edited on 12/2/14 by John Bonnett]
The panel needs a lot more planishing but I was anxious to check that despite the welding, it still fitted the car and that the lights still fitted
into their apertures. Fortunately, all is well so I can relax now.
Brilliant as usual John.
Have you considered taking moulds off it when it's finished and selling a few bodies?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Brilliant as usual John.
Have you considered taking moulds off it when it's finished and selling a few bodies?
I'm thinking your body in lightweight GRP over a spaceframe with full cage. The perfect home for Claire's Mazda V6 on MX5 gearbox kit.
The more I think about it the more I like it!
A colleague of our Trev D has very kindly agreed to make a bonnet skin for me and he has just made a start on it. And what a good start.
Is that the Alfa TZ one?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is that the Alfa TZ one?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is that the Alfa TZ one?
Yes it is; well done. Dimensionally it is very close to the GT6 bonnet and I think it is absolutely stunning.
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
The panel work is still progressing quite well with the left hand rear wing finished apart from forming a return to fit the inner wing and B post.
The rear valence has to be welded to the panel adjacent to the tailgate aperture before the number plate panel can be welded on.
[Edited on 26/1/14 by John Bonnett]
Looking really good; I notice you have the tailgate attached...any pictures of the rear end with it closed?
I've spent a bit of time on the passengers door working to achieve a decent shut and panel gap. The gap can be further adjusted during skinning
the doors with aluminium but it's been good to get it as close as I can.
The main problem was the unsupported part of the B post to which the striker plate is fixed. Once I'd put a brace in place, the problem was
solved and the door latched nicely.
[Edited on 27/2/14 by John Bonnett]
Looks great as all ways. I would be intrested to see how you made the support .
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Looks great as all ways. I would be intrested to see how you made the support .
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Looks great as all ways. I would be intrested to see how you made the support .
Nothing fancy. 1mm mild steel with three holes using hole saws, a couple of swage lines and the top and bottom edges have a 12mm flange turned at right angles. I didn't like adding weight but the stay was needed.
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Looks great as all ways. I would be intrested to see how you made the support .
Nothing fancy. 1mm mild steel with three holes using hole saws, a couple of swage lines and the top and bottom edges have a 12mm flange turned at right angles. I didn't like adding weight but the stay was needed.
For the swage lines do you beat the steel over a bit of rod or do you have a wheel to form it.
The right hand rear quarter light panel wasn't quite right so I re-made it and I'm very pleased i did. It is much better this time and
I'm happy with the result
Meanwhile Martin, Trev D's colleague has made good progress with the Alfa bonnet and he has just sent me these two pictures.
WOW! That's going to look soooooo good!
John,
Nice - that rear end is starting to look fantastic...
[Edited on 5/3/14 by stevebubs]
Any news John?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Any news John?
This thread just goes from good to even better with every post. Have you ever thought of training people in these remarkable skills that you have ?
quote:
Originally posted by Not Anumber
This thread just goes from good to even better with every post. Have you ever thought of training people in these remarkable skills that you have ?
The shell is now at a stage when it can be removed from the chassis without any worries about stability and distortion. This is now allowing me to
start on the dummy build up of the chassis. Dummy because it will all have to be dismantled so that the chassis can be shot blasted and powder
coated.
Some of you may be interested in the rotisserie I made quite simply and cheaply so that the body can be rolled over. The video is all very amateurish
I'm afraid but here's the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNlp6Vsc0Qw
I'll put some more pictures up once the engine and gearbox are in the chassis.
[Edited on 12/5/14 by John Bonnett]
Any updates John?
Fantastic work as always John!
Really enjoy seeing the updates on this.
Thank you for your interest chaps. Holidays have slowed the progress but the steel shell is finished now and ready to go back onto the chassis. The
underside and insides have been seam sealed and the underneath sprayed with Stonechip.
I've changed my mind for the final colour which was going to be Rosso Red but will now be French Blue. The only reason is that although I love
the red there are just too many red cars (in my opinion). Colour is very subjective and very much a personal choice. I really liked French Blue on my
GT6 and am very happy with the choice of colour. I've used an enamel tractor paint for the inside which is fairly close to colour the body will
be. In any event it will be covered by either carpet or upholstery.
Petrol tank is now modified and ready for powder coating. The GT6 MK2 tank has the filler neck in the place I need for my set up but the tank was
badly corroded so I cut the piece out of the MK2 tank and welded it to a MK3 tank which is in very good condition. I'm going to use the redundant
neck for a breather.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[Edited on 8/8/14 by John Bonnett]
[img][/img]
[Edited on 8/8/14 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 8/8/14 by John Bonnett]
Looking back through my posts I realise that I've been quite liberal with the pictures but perhaps a bit short on text so hopefully the following
will tie everything together and bring things up to date.
The initial aim was and still is to build a lightweight GT6 where the steel panels are substituted for aluminium. The standard car has a nice skeleton
steel frame that I'm using to underpin my build. I have taken a few liberties with the shape of some of the panels partly to make things easier
for me to form and partly because I'm aiming for a more rounded look with the absence of external seams.
Building the shell was a huge task because, not wishing to butcher a perfectly good shell and risk the wrath of many I started with sections from
three different vehicles which were joined together and many new repair panels fitted. This was a very costly and time consuming exercise but at the
end of the day we have a very solid and rustfree body as the basis of the build.
In the interests of handling and sheer driving enjoyment I am using a four cylinder Spitfire engine rather than the much heavier six. Powerwise we
should have a similar output to the six although granted not as torquey but coupled with a lightweight body the car should be nimble and actually want
to turn in to a corner. I'm using GT6 brakes and suspension including Rotoflex at the rear which eliminates virtually all camber change.
Adjustable dampers all round. The very much cheaper option would for sure have been to fit a Zetec or other lightweight modern engine but I really
want to keep the car as a Triumph.
I've built up a rolling chassis and during this coming week the body will be transferred from the rotisserie onto the chassis for the panels to
be fitted. All are made except one rear wing which having made the reversible buck and the wing for the other side should be fairly
straightforward.
Once the panelling is finished the body will come off the chassis so that the chassis can be shot blasted and powder coated.
So that brings everything up to date. My thanks to all of you who have expressed an interest in my project and have taken the trouble to read the
write ups.
John
The body is now back on the chassis and pleasingly every mounting bolt hole on the body lined up perfectly with its opposite number on the chassis.
The doors were trial fitted and much to my relief, they still fit their apertures.
I'm spending a lot of time trying to achieve a decent shut line between the tailgate and its surround. This is proving difficult but not
impossible. I need sufficient gap to allow for the thickness of the paint. the next phase of the job is going to be slow and painstaking I feel but
this is the bit that everyone will see and so it does have to be as good as I can make it.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
French blue is a great choice
A bit more progress made over the last few days. The roof is now sitting nicely in place and to my eye is symmetrical. I found this a very difficult
panel to make and I have to say how pleased I am with how it has turned out. The tailgate surround is now in place and ready for welding to the
roof.
A couple of pictures attached to bring things up to date.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
Pictures paint a thousand words John, I'm in awe and looking forward to retiring when I can try something along this theme myself !
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Pictures paint a thousand words John, I'm in awe and looking forward to retiring when I can try something along this theme myself !
I had my 40 year crisis and got a big bike, now enjoying my early 50's spent the last few weeks building my project shed for hopefully a good
few years of tinkering 10 tons of concrete and two pallets of bricks later and I am awaiting my oak frame to arrive
Also purchased my sprinting clothes today, I have finally reached the point that I can start spending on myself.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I had my 40 year crisis and got a big bike, now enjoying my early 50's spent the last few weeks building my project shed for hopefully a good few years of tinkering 10 tons of concrete and two pallets of bricks later and I am awaiting my oak frame to arrive
Also purchased my sprinting clothes today, I have finally reached the point that I can start spending on myself.
A bit more progress today. One leg of the tailgate panel is now tacked and ready to be fully welded. The complete panel is getting a bit difficult to
handle now.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
Seems like my misgivings about the panel never fitting again were unfounded, much to my great relief. Once the tailgate panel was welded onto the roof
it is quite surprising how stiff the assembly is. There's quite a bit of planishing needed to finish the job but it is encouraging to know that
the panel is going to be okay. This was one of the parts of the job I was dreading.
A few pictures bringing this up to date.
[img]http://[/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
Looks fantastic!
How is the front looking?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Looks fantastic!
How is the front looking?
I've spent ages on the tailgate fit and panel gap and it's now just about as good as i can get it.
Looks great John!
Can you get a move on though!? I really want to see it finished!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Looks great John!
Can you get a move on though!? I really want to see it finished!
I've now spent many hours with a flipper and weight working on the tailgate aperture panel bringing up the lows . In my last post i said it was
as good as I could get it but I keep nadgering away at it. Where do you stop?
I ordered up a standard roof finisher which I hoped would fit because if it did it would make a nice job of covering the front edge of the roof and
clamp it tightly to the mating panel. The finisher is just a U and it needed opening out a tad because my set up is a mm or so thicker than on the
original car. Once this was done, to my great relief, it tapped on nicely. So another hurdle over.
[Edited on 5/9/14 by John Bonnett]
I've done a bit more and following two coats of etch primer and a top coat of French Blue the roof is now bonded on. I used two pack panel
adhesive. The roof flanges were clamped down tightly whilst the adhesive went off.
The rear panel is now bonded on to the steel frame and tack welded to the roof panel.
I've just finished the bonding on of all the panels the last being the two rear quarter light panels. Next up is to make the final weld across
the width of the car making all the panels one.
Clamps are off and all the panels well and truly bonded on. Certainly no shifting them now. These modern boding adhesives are formidable. The rear
quarter light panels are now tacked waiting for the final TIG weld to fully weld the whole assembly together.
looks great, what are you going to do next?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
looks great, what are you going to do next?
The in-situ TIG weld has now joined the panels into one making the new aluminium body shell and that is a real milestone. I've spent a bit of
time today metal finishing which I've found very pleasing and rewarding.
The weld across the rear of the car which joins the panels together is now metal finished and the rear lights trial fitted. The modified tank is also
trial fitted. I've retained the MK3 filler neck on the far side to incorporate an air bleed. Here are a few pictures bringing us up to date. And
yes, I do realise the steering wheel is upside down. This is only a trial fit. My main concern was that the column when clamped up, lined up properly
for the shaft to fit through the hole in the bulkhead. Fortunately all was well and everything went together nicely.
I really enjoy seeing your work and progress John - it looks very well executed!
Keep the updates coming
quote:
I really enjoy seeing your work and progress John - it looks very well executed!
Keep the updates coming
Very nice to hear from you Nick and Stu and thank you so much for your encouragement which is very much appreciated. Trev D is coming down this
weekend and I'm hoping that he will be able to give me a bit of guidance on adapting the Alfa bonnet. It's going to need a fair bit of
re-shaping at the scuttle end but nothing too serious, (I hope!). Once that's been sorted we'll be well on the way.
How is your project coming along Nick?
My wife and I are taking the trials car to France next month just for a couple of day's holiday. The French really love the car particularly when
I tell them it has a 205 GTI engine. I'll pop some pictures up when we get back. We are now running a 1.9 engine coupled to a 306 diesel turbo
gearbox and this coupled with 185 80 15 tyres gives 30mph @ 1000rpm in fifth. It's an awesome cruiser.
rgds
John
Lovely work as ever John
Question re the fuel cap. Isn't it going to be flushed in?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Lovely work as ever John
Question re the fuel cap. Isn't it going to be flushed in?
Hi
I meant the whole filler let into the body to make it flush with the panel?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Hi
I meant the whole filler let into the body to make it flush with the panel?
Above your skill level!?
Come on John I don't believe that!
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Very nice to hear from you Nick and Stu and thank you so much for your encouragement which is very much appreciated. Trev D is coming down this weekend and I'm hoping that he will be able to give me a bit of guidance on adapting the Alfa bonnet. It's going to need a fair bit of re-shaping at the scuttle end but nothing too serious, (I hope!). Once that's been sorted we'll be well on the way.
How is your project coming along Nick?
My wife and I are taking the trials car to France next month just for a couple of day's holiday. The French really love the car particularly when I tell them it has a 205 GTI engine. I'll pop some pictures up when we get back. We are now running a 1.9 engine coupled to a 306 diesel turbo gearbox and this coupled with 185 80 15 tyres gives 30mph @ 1000rpm in fifth. It's an awesome cruiser.
rgds
John
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Above your skill level!?
Come on John I don't believe that!
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Very nice to hear from you Nick and Stu and thank you so much for your encouragement which is very much appreciated. Trev D is coming down this weekend and I'm hoping that he will be able to give me a bit of guidance on adapting the Alfa bonnet. It's going to need a fair bit of re-shaping at the scuttle end but nothing too serious, (I hope!). Once that's been sorted we'll be well on the way.
How is your project coming along Nick?
My wife and I are taking the trials car to France next month just for a couple of day's holiday. The French really love the car particularly when I tell them it has a 205 GTI engine. I'll pop some pictures up when we get back. We are now running a 1.9 engine coupled to a 306 diesel turbo gearbox and this coupled with 185 80 15 tyres gives 30mph @ 1000rpm in fifth. It's an awesome cruiser.
rgds
John
Hi John
My project has reached the stage of a205 gti on the drive which is good for the occasional boat here and there. I also have a bare 205 shell in the garage which I'm slowly striping of paint and underseal and contemplating what to do with it.
Family life and work allow no real project time at present and an impending house move with a list conversion to do will slow it to a stop. The bonus is a large garage/workshop to fill with more parts while I work on the house.
Have you any recent pics of the trials car? I'm sure others on here will be equally interested to see it.
Regards
Nick
I was so privileged to have Trev D spend a day with me to help me with the project. He spent some time tidying up my shoddy workmanship and he has
transformed the tailgate area. It shut better and the shut lines and gaps are very much better. He then turned his attention to the bonnet and after
re-working the up-stand at the scuttle end we were able to offer it up. It all looks quite promising.
Today, I have made a start on the right hand rear wing which will be the last panel to finish the job.
Wow John it's going to be sooooo good!
Don't let anyone tell you it's shoddy!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Wow John it's going to be sooooo good!
Don't let anyone tell you it's shoddy!
It would be a bit rude of him not to come back
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Wow John it's going to be sooooo good!
Don't let anyone tell you it's shoddy!
That's really kind of you to say that but there is a huge difference between my work and Trev's. He is the consummate professional and I'm just an enthusiastic amateur. His skill with just a hammer and a weight is amazing to watch and I can tell you I was there just soaking up the experience like a sponge watching the shut line improve before my eyes. It really was a piece of magic. I wonder if he would come back and do the same with the doors?
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Wow John it's going to be sooooo good!
Don't let anyone tell you it's shoddy!
That's really kind of you to say that but there is a huge difference between my work and Trev's. He is the consummate professional and I'm just an enthusiastic amateur. His skill with just a hammer and a weight is amazing to watch and I can tell you I was there just soaking up the experience like a sponge watching the shut line improve before my eyes. It really was a piece of magic. I wonder if he would come back and do the same with the doors?
How good was the tea/coffee and what class of biscuitage was on offer
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
That's really kind of you to say that but there is a huge difference between my work and Trev's. He is the consummate professional and I'm just an enthusiastic amateur. His skill with just a hammer and a weight is amazing to watch and I can tell you I was there just soaking up the experience like a sponge watching the shut line improve before my eyes. It really was a piece of magic. I wonder if he would come back and do the same with the doors?
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
That's really kind of you to say that but there is a huge difference between my work and Trev's. He is the consummate professional and I'm just an enthusiastic amateur. His skill with just a hammer and a weight is amazing to watch and I can tell you I was there just soaking up the experience like a sponge watching the shut line improve before my eyes. It really was a piece of magic. I wonder if he would come back and do the same with the doors?
An enthusiastic amateur with some seriously impressive skills. I'm happy replacing steel panels and simple fabrication holds little fear for me, but your project just blows me away. I can't wait to see the finished car
The wing buck I'd made for the other side is reversible and turning it round worked out quite nicely with not much work being needed to mount it
to the body.
The return started as a flat piece of sheet folded to a right angle and then shrunk and stretched as necessary to match the shape needed. A lot of
shrinking is going to be needed to give the necessary taper. That's going to be quite challenging!
[Edited on 2/11/14 by John Bonnett]
Oi John.
Would you mind slowing down a bit ? No bugga can keep up with ya !
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by 907
Oi John.
Would you mind slowing down a bit ? No bugga can keep up with ya !
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by 907
Oi John.
Would you mind slowing down a bit ? No bugga can keep up with ya !
Paul G
Was it Gladstone or Disraeli of whom it was said, "An old man in a hurry" And it's not stainless like yours Paul so like me it has a limited life
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by 907
Oi John.
Would you mind slowing down a bit ? No bugga can keep up with ya !
Paul G
Was it Gladstone or Disraeli of whom it was said, "An old man in a hurry" And it's not stainless like yours Paul so like me it has a limited life
I didn't have a choice John. It's all I could afford.
Have you seen the price of paint lately ?
Paul G
The return took a bit of shrinking but the annealing did the trick and all turned out quite nicely. Two wing sub panels in place ready to weld
together.
Slow progress today but I've gas welded the main wing sub-panels together ready to weld the assembly to the return. That will be a weld of about
seven feet.
I'm pleased to report a bit more progress since my last offering. On this side I've decided to form the B post return separately rather than
tap it over as I did on the other side. This has the advantage that the bend is crisper and the actual B post won't need a supporting stay to
withstand the tapping round. Starting with a flat strip I put a fold in not a right angle but enough to break the line and then I annealed the bit
that would need stretching. This minimises the risk of the aluminium splitting. using a combination of shrinking and stretching the return was quite
easily formed. The remaining sub-panels were gas welded to the main wing section. All that is left to complete the wing is to weld on the return and
tap the return round the wheel arch.
[Edited on 16/11/14 by John Bonnett]
Fantastic as always!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Fantastic as always!
I think we all look forward to the updates and can't wait to see it finished!
Can I ask about the welding? Is it all gas welded? If so why is it gas rather than tig? Sorry if you have already told us earlier in the thread.
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
I think we all look forward to the updates and can't wait to see it finished!
Can I ask about the welding? Is it all gas welded? If so why is it gas rather than tig? Sorry if you have already told us earlier in the thread.
That's interesting thanks.
looks great, how are you going to finish the lip of the wheel arch?
Fantastic work John, when finished you will have a lovely car to enjoy.
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
looks great, how are you going to finish the lip of the wheel arch?
Well, I had to work hard today but the wing is pretty much there now with just a bit of tidying needed. The picture show the B post return in place
over the top of the wing ready to scribe and cut and trim. The second the wing tacked to the return. The third fully TIG welded and the final one the
return starting to be tapped over against the inner wing.
don't know what to say that hasn't already been said, this thread is becoming legendry
looks great.
Legend........................... wait for it......... ary!
it always seems a shame to paint cars built like this, I'd just polish it up like chrome
Thanks guys, to be honest it ain't that great but you know the right things to say
It will be painted I'm afraid because the car is going to be used and nothing corrodes aluminium better than a salt/water solution.
I'm assuming and sorry if this has been already covered before in conversation, but is there a barrier between the steel and aluminium panelling?
I notice that some of the recent pictures seem to show the aluminium being on top of what appears to be bare steel.
It's just I've just spent the last few months and heaps of cash replacing corroded aluminium panels on a landrover where they had been
contacting the steel work or bolts or washers...it's a nightmare
John
You started off with gas welding, now it's TIG what changed and why?
I once tried gas on thin ali sheet, trying to repair a rangerover tail gate, everything fell apart in molten blobs
VVVV
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Can I ask about the welding? Is it all gas welded? If so why is it gas rather than tig? Sorry if you have already told us earlier in the thread.
I've gas welded most of the panels because the weld bead is very malleable and the heat affected zone is annealed. This makes the planishing and further working of the panel easier than if they had been TIG welded. The long weld across the rear of the body below the tailgate aperture is TIG welded because it would have been difficult to wash the flux off if it had been gas welded. I shall also TIG weld the B Post return onto the wing because this will lead to minimal distortion and no further forming will be needed. I'll just need to sand the weld bead flush. That's the plan anyway. I hope to report some good news tomorrow night!
Ah, already answered then it's a a long post now.
Thanks
With the body panels all made and fitted I've been turning my attention to fitting the bonnet and making a a tubular steel frame for the air
intake aperture and around which the aluminium will be dressed.
I'm making a simple plywood buck to hold the bonnet in place and the transverse stages will be notched to locate the tubes for the bonnet
supporting frame. Here are a few pictures.
No pressure John!
You can always have another bonnet made
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
No pressure John!
You can always have another bonnet made
A lot of time today spent looking and adjusting so not much to show. However I have made a longitudinal sweep and from that cut the centre station for
the buck. Just a couple of pictures I'm afraid.
Quite a while since I posted any progress but I've been beavering away. Not a huge amount of perceived progress but I've spent a lot of time
measuring and fitting in an effort to get the bonnet sitting in the best position with respect to the body and the general appearance.
The buck is now finished and this provides some reliable datum points as well as a firm base to support the two bonnet halves.
Right from the outset, it did look as if there was too much shape in the bonnet where it meets the door so I took the bull by the horns and cut a Vee
stretching from the door end a foot towards the front. I then tapped the aluminium down onto the buck which closed the gap and then welded it up.
Phew! Glad that's done. The transition is definitely much closer now so it was the right thing to do.
Great progress. Will the steel opening form be left in why'd bonnet? Or will it come out once the shape is there.
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Great progress. Will the steel opening form be left in why'd bonnet? Or will it come out once the shape is there.
I've now made the hinges for the bonnet which are a very simple affair but hopefully will be up to the job. The bonnet itself is light and the
inner wings will be fixed to the chassis rather than an integral part of the bonnet. So the hinges will never have a huge load to cope with. The
aluminium sweep represents the bonnet and shows that the opening will be sufficient to access the the engine bay.
Holy cow .. not really looked at this site properly in a while and I see this... coming on really well, John...
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
Holy cow .. not really looked at this site properly in a while and I see this... coming on really well, John...
Just a real pleasure to watch John
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Just a real pleasure to watch John
I,m only seeing a little 4 pot under the bonnet, I thought gt6's were all 2.0 straight 6's unless the 2.5 had been transplanted.
Are you planning anything under the hood John?
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I,m only seeing a little 4 pot under the bonnet, I thought gt6's were all 2.0 straight 6's unless the 2.5 had been transplanted.
Are you planning anything under the hood John?
The GT6 grew out of the 4pot Sptfire LeMans coupe anyway.
More great work, skill and progress John.
Work stopped for a short break a couple of days before Christmas but I managed to get the bonnet supporting frame tacked together and the over centre
catches together with their mating parts trial fitted. I was really pleased to discover that the reinforcing bonnet corners which accommodate the
rubber locating cones are available as a Heritage repair panel. This was a huge benefit and saved a colossal amount of time. A few pictures follow.
Great progress. Have you seen the hinge on project binky, it could make removing the front end for work very easy?
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Great progress. Have you seen the hinge on project binky, it could make removing the front end for work very easy?
I've decided to leave the bonnet supporting frame just tacked for the moment. Trev D's colleague Martin is coming down soon to do some work
on the bonnet skin and if he recommends that I change the frame it will be easier if it's not fully welded.
So I'm now starting on the cooling system which uses a Golf radiator and a MK4 Astra header tank. The VW radiator is efficient, light and above
all amazingly cheap. I bought a shroud complete with fan to suit off Ebay. The radiator is located on the base by two spigots which are accommodated
by a pair of simple brackets fitted with rubber grommets to provide the necessary cushioning. Next was to cut out a cardboard template for the
ducting which will be transposed onto aluminium. The ducting will be screwed to the radiator and will hold it rigidly in place. It will be fun folding
the aluminium with many opportunities for mistakes.
Is it finished yet?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is it finished yet?
Yes, the ducting is finished now after aborting the MK1 on the grounds of it being too heavy. Pic 1 The MK2 is a lot better and uses a frame of 25 x
25 x 1.5 extruded aluminium angle with the panelling in 1mm. I had to add stiffness by putting in a few swages but I think it will be okay. I have
also made the crossbar that fits across the middle of the air intake aperture frame. This started out as a piece of 1.2mm stainless sheet 32mm wide
folded into a Vee. In the centre is a stainless backing plate to accommodate the Triumph badge.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is it finished yet?
...and when it is, can you lend that cardboard pattern to Roger so he can adapt it to finally getting around to making a boot box for his car.
Nice work John.
Can we look forward to the fitting of the bonnet soon?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Nice work John.
Can we look forward to the fitting of the bonnet soon?
Looks fabulous John!
That looks stunning.
Rog, Spain, June. Hows that for motivation?
Looking terrific John - congratulations on your progress and looking forward to seeing the finished result.
Dominic
Thank you all for your very kind words and encouragement. I'm so lucky to have Martin's help without which I would have been totally out of
my depth. It was quite amazing to witness his accuracy, and speed of work; a real privilege to be in the company of a master craftsman. All a bit of
an anti-climax now that he has finished and I'm back on my own. But everything should be pretty straightforward from here on in. Next weekend
I'll have the body off the chassis and during the following week strip it down and get it over to the painters to be shot blasted and powder
coated. In the meantime I can be making up the wiring loom so plenty to get on with.
I'll keep you posted and thank you all for your interest and encouragement which i find absolutely fantastic. Thank you.
John
Since the last offering the body has been removed from the chassis, the chassis stripped of all the running gear and taken for shot blasting and
powder coating.
Work on the wiring is under way with the rear loom finished. To clip it to the car I've sourced some nice little tie wrap saddles that can be
screwed or riveted. The tie wraps allow the loom to be demounted if required.
I've painted the bulkhead and it is now ready for the master cylinders and all the other bits and pieces that sit on the scuttle shelf.
I'm trying to keep the car simple and the dashboard that I've just made does, I believe, fit into that concept. There will be a couple of
other gauges mounted on a sub-panel behind the steering wheel but nothing over the top.
Before the loom can be finished the hardware has to be sited so that the various wires can be trimmed to the right lengths. So, the wiper motor is in
position, the dash instruments and the heater. I'm using a T7 modular heater similar to the one in the trials car which works very well. The
heater is available with a wide choice of blanking plates and outlet stub pipe diameter. The bulhead adapter, also from T7 is nicely made and with the
pipe spacing matching the heater inlet and outlet pipes it allows a neat installation.
[Edited on 8/2/15 by John Bonnett]
The chassis went together really quickly and is now fully built and awaiting the engine. The secret to the quick reassembly was that sections were
removed after the dummy build as assemblies rather than individual components. And the brake and fuel pipes were already formed.
I've been told that the diff mounting plate should be fixed with Wedgelok bolts which are a special type that is self-locking. Standard bolts
have a tendency to work loose, come out and jam the propshaft; not nice! I've been unable to source them so I've fitted new star washers and
wired the heads. I'm hoping that will do the trick.
quote:
Originally posted by ken555
Are these what you are looking for John? NORD-LOCK WEDGE LOCK WASHER NL10 METRIC WASHER FOR M10 BOLTS DELTA PROTEKT x 5
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Are these what you are looking for John? NORD-LOCK WEDGE LOCK WASHER NL10 METRIC WASHER FOR M10 BOLTS DELTA PROTEKT x 5
The new bonnet catches arrived today and I've been able to trial fit them to the aluminium recesses that I made a week or so ago. These will be
trimmed and welded into the bonnet while being located by bolting through into the steel backing plate.
Well, I now have the engine, the gearbox is fitted and all is bolted in. So pleasing progress. I've decided to change the diff to a better ratio
and before doing that, I've drilled and tapped the casing for a drain plug. Early cars had a drain plug but this was later discontinued. However,
the boss is still present and being cast iron easy to drill and tap.
quote:all really (and I do mean really really) nice, however one question...
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Well, I now have the engine, the gearbox is fitted and all is bolted in. So pleasing progress. I've decided to change the diff to a better ratio and before doing that, I've drilled and tapped the casing for a drain plug. Early cars had a drain plug but this was later discontinued. However, the boss is still present and being cast iron easy to drill and tap.
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:all really (and I do mean really really) nice, however one question...
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Well, I now have the engine, the gearbox is fitted and all is bolted in. So pleasing progress. I've decided to change the diff to a better ratio and before doing that, I've drilled and tapped the casing for a drain plug. Early cars had a drain plug but this was later discontinued. However, the boss is still present and being cast iron easy to drill and tap.
shouldn't there be a copper or fibre washer to seal?
or even a nice imperial taper fit?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:all really (and I do mean really really) nice, however one question...
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Well, I now have the engine, the gearbox is fitted and all is bolted in. So pleasing progress. I've decided to change the diff to a better ratio and before doing that, I've drilled and tapped the casing for a drain plug. Early cars had a drain plug but this was later discontinued. However, the boss is still present and being cast iron easy to drill and tap.
shouldn't there be a copper or fibre washer to seal?
or even a nice imperial taper fit?
There is a copper washer there sitting under the plain washer. You can just see it.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:all really (and I do mean really really) nice, however one question...
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Well, I now have the engine, the gearbox is fitted and all is bolted in. So pleasing progress. I've decided to change the diff to a better ratio and before doing that, I've drilled and tapped the casing for a drain plug. Early cars had a drain plug but this was later discontinued. However, the boss is still present and being cast iron easy to drill and tap.
shouldn't there be a copper or fibre washer to seal?
or even a nice imperial taper fit?
There is a copper washer there sitting under the plain washer. You can just see it.
That'll tend to leak between the head and steel washer. You should have just the copper washer.
Looking good though. Best looking GT4 I've seen
Hi John
A flange bolt (non serrated type) would give a larger surface area to seal on.
Keep up the good work.
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by 907
Hi John
A flange bolt (non serrated type) would give a larger surface area to seal on.
Keep up the good work.
Paul G
What size/thread is the plug? There might be a sump plug that's right for it. They often have a flange... though there's plenty that just had a hex.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
What size/thread is the plug? There might be a sump plug that's right for it. They often have a flange... though there's plenty that just had a hex.
A bit more done today. The dashtop crashpad and the demister ducts are in and piped up to the heater. It was a trying job totally because of the
inaccessibility of the fixings underneath. But we got there in the end.
A much more pleasant job was the trial fitting of the oil cooler. I welded up a simple U shaped frame from extruded rectangular aluminium tube and
picked up on the mounts in the cooler. The frame and the ducting are away tomorrow for powder coater.
The radiator ducting came back in record time from the powder coaters; just twenty four hours turn-round. Terrific service and quality. All fitted now
together with the oil cooler.
We got the body back on this afternoon which went very easily thanks to a party of willing lifters. It is all bolted down now together with the
steering column. Now the body is on there are loads of things I can get on with not the least being finishing the wiring.
Great work as usual John.
I'm getting quite excited about seeing it finished. I bet you can't wait to see it all together?
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Great work as usual John.
I'm getting quite excited about seeing it finished. I bet you can't wait to see it all together?
Plumbing on the cooling side is now finished and the system filled with coolant.
The wiring would have been finished by now but I made a late decision to to give the dashboard its own loom connected by plugs and sockets. It took a
few days but it will be worth it not to find, once it's put back that a spade had pulled off one of the terminals which always used to happen on
my GT6.
At long last, the wiring is finished and the dashboard fitted. Martin has done his bit on the bonnet which I am absolutely thrilled with and cannot
wait to see it fitted on the car.
WOW!
Just WOW!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
WOW!
Just WOW!
Nice to hear from you both and thank you for the encouragement. I'm collecting the bonnet middle of next week. I'm really hoping that there
won't be a clearance problem with the Webers. I set it up with the SUs on the other engine because at that stage I didn't have the new
one.
I'm moving ever closer into a start-up situation. The tank went in today and also the alternator the alternator so that the water pump is
driven.
I finished the exhaust system yesterday and connected the Rotoflex tie rods; both fiddly and time consuming jobs but done now.
A few pic follow
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Nice to hear from you both and thank you for the encouragement. I'm collecting the bonnet middle of next week. I'm really hoping that there won't be a clearance problem with the Webers. I set it up with the SUs on the other engine because at that stage I didn't have the new one.
I'm moving ever closer into a start-up situation. The tank went in today and also the alternator the alternator so that the water pump is driven.
I finished the exhaust system yesterday and connected the Rotoflex tie rods; both fiddly and time consuming jobs but done now.
A few pic follow
As an ex- GT6 owner it's been fascinating watching progress, John.
Looks like you could do with a genuine gear-knob?
If you don't have one let me know by pm and I'll donate one.
Cheers, Pewe10
quote:
Originally posted by pewe
As an ex- GT6 owner it's been fascinating watching progress, John.
Looks like you could do with a genuine gear-knob?
If you don't have one let me know by pm and I'll donate one.
Cheers, Pewe10
Well, I've got the bonnet back and it is over to me to finish it. First thing I've tackled is the the air intake aperture. To aid trimming
trev sent me a picture of a clever little tool he has made to mark an offset with the scribed line on the outside of the panel. It took less than half
an hour to make and it made the trimming really easy.
On the lower part of the hoop, I had to add some metal. This was done by using a TIG lap joint. I wasn't looking forward to this job but it went
okay and the joint is all but invisible.
Much to my relief, I've finished the bonnet without ruining it. This involved fitting additional tubes to support the front valence, wrapping the
aluminium around the tubes, clenching at the scuttle end and wiring the wheel arches. I also formed the bonnet catch recesses directly into the bonnet
rather than welding in the ones that I had made separately.
The lights are now fitted and the bonnet loom made and connected to the main loom. It was a very good feeling to connect the battery and see that
everything worked as it should.
The windscreen and headlining are now fitted as well.
Today I've made a start on the inner wings. The list of things to do to finish the car is getting quite short now.
Amazing work as usual John.
It looks fantastic!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Amazing work as usual John.
It looks fantastic!
A few more pictures follow. The interior is now in and finished although the seats have yet to be re-upholstered; a job for when the car is being
painted.
The replacement cylinder head arrived today and hopefully we'll be up and running over the weekend.
So, all going well.
With the replacement head fitted I did get the engine running and actually drove the short distance down our lane from my workshop to the house. Here
are a few pictures.
But the drama continues. There is a problem with one of the DCOE40s. Petrol is leaking out and it is not obvious even when stripped down where the
problem is so it is going back to the engine builder who supplied the package. While it is away I may well fit a pair of SUs so that we can make the
MOT booking for next week.
So to finish the car I've just got to build up the driver's door.
That is incredible....
so impressed, a work of art
Seems a shame to paint it.
That looks just Amazing!
Fantastic work John.
Agree, it only need a polish not paint.
Just out of curiosity, what grade and thickness aluminium did you used?
And is it recommended to anneal the material when the final shape is achieved?
Again, it looks great.
quote:
Originally posted by ettore bugatti
Agree, it only need a polish not paint.
Just out of curiosity, what grade and thickness aluminium did you used?
And is it recommended to anneal the material when the final shape is achieved?
Again, it looks great.
Thanks!
I'm just re-reading N. Lockwoods' Designing and building a sports car and he seems to re-anneal a lot.
Wow, not looked at this in a while, but what a job! Amazing work and an amazing looking car!
I wouldn't have the balls to paint it.
Simply superb.
Thank you all for your very positive comments; very much appreciated. Believe me, the photos do flatter the car and hide the multitude of highs and
lows in the bodywork. It really does need to be painted not just to hide the blemishes but also to make it usable throughout the year in all weathers.
Nothing corrodes quicker than aluminium exposed to a salt solution.
The car is pretty much ready now for the MOT which is booked for next Tuesday. It was a pity about the problem with the DCOE40 but while i am waiting
for it to be repaired the engine is running very nicely on the twin HS4s which I fortunately had on the shelf. I've had to modify the plumbing to
suit and although it is not as neat as it was, I hope it is still acceptable.
The interior is now in with the driver's door being the last thing to build up.
So fingers crossed for Tuesday and the MOT.
Good luck with the MOT. Awesome project that deserves maximum respect for the craftsmanship involved. :
quote:
Originally posted by Pojo
Good luck with the MOT. Awesome project that deserves maximum respect for the craftsmanship involved. :
Well done John
What's next?
That's perseverance for you, congratulations John.
Off to the French Alps for a tour now?
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
three years and three thousand hours of effort
Barring any unforeseen unpleasant surprises, our trip to France, once just a dream, should be a reality. I enjoyed the build but now all i want to do
is to drive the car and get some enjoyment from it.
To anyone who fancies trying their hand at metal shaping, I can assure you that anyone can do it. I didn't start until I was turned 60 and
learned all I know from Ron Fournier's excellent videos. I a now nearly 73 and this is my second project; the trials car being the first.
As for the next project, I've not decided what just yet, but there definitely will be one.
As others have said, the car looks amazing and is an absolute work of art.
Stu
I may have dribbled slightly... that's lush!
A couple of final jobs completed before we set off for France. One was to fit a towing eye and the other, to replace the tired and sagging rear
spring. Had I realised that the spring was sub-standard, I would have replaced it early on in the build when fitting it would have been many times
easier. But it was well worth the effort with the raised rear end and improved ride.
The trip to France is going to be a bit of a leap of faith with less than five hundred miles on the clock since the car went on the road but hopefully
all will be well.
[Edited on 22/6/15 by John Bonnett]
[Edited on 22/6/15 by John Bonnett]
I'm pleased to report that all went well in France and that the toolbox remained unopened for the whole trip. We thoroughly enjoyed the whole
experience and the wonderful reception the car received wherever we went. We were away for two weeks and covered 1300 miles door to door, much of it
in 30 degree plus temperatures which the car coped with rather better than did we.
Just a few pics
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[Edited on 28/7/15 by John Bonnett]
John, total respect for having seen it through and brilliant end result.
Question is - what's the next project?
Your band of followers need something to keep them entertained.
ATB, Pewe10
quote:
Originally posted by pewe
John, total respect for having seen it through and brilliant end result.
Question is - what's the next project?
Your band of followers need something to keep them entertained.
ATB, Pewe10
Glad to hear the car was trouble free on your French tour John. We expected nothing less!
Now that is a pretty car and looks like a challenging build. I'm sure you are up to it though!
It would seem a shame not too.
We've just returned from France having competed in the Coupe Florio hill climb in Saint Brieuc. We were really lucky to have an entry knowing
that anybody can apply but at the end of the day there are only ninety places and they select just the ones they want. Sadly, a dose of food poisoning
prevented my driving the final run but here is a clip of my second timed climb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-rtCbygnIM
[Edited on 6/9/15 by John Bonnett]
That looked like fun John - well done with the build - impressed me hugely - wish i had your talent and perseverance - look forward to the next build.
quote:
Originally posted by Ivan
That looked like fun John - well done with the build - impressed me hugely - wish i had your talent and perseverance - look forward to the next build.
The car is a tribute to the builder, your next project needs to grow oily fingers and build the new engine yourself.
Having been competing in hill climbs this year it looks like the UK cannot touch the hill you have just done
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
The car is a tribute to the builder, your next project needs to grow oily fingers and build the new engine yourself.
Having been competing in hill climbs this year it looks like the UK cannot touch the hill you have just done
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
We've just returned from France having competed in the Coupe Florio hill climb in Saint Brieuc. We were really lucky to have an entry knowing that anybody can apply but at the end of the day there are only ninety places and they select just the ones they want. Sadly, a dose of food poisoning prevented my driving the final run but here is a clip of my second timed climb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-rtCbygnIM
[Edited on 6/9/15 by John Bonnett]
It's been a while since my last update but the project has been moving on albeit slowly. It was an agonising decision but I decided to have the
car painted rather than leave it as bare aluminium and the colour will be French Blue; a genuine Triumph colour. The preparation is just about
complete and painting should be started very soon now.
I've ditched the wire wheels in favour of alloys on the grounds of weight saving and ease of cleaning. This will knock 34kg off the unsprung
weight which is surprising and significant.
The engine has been a big disappointment for reasons that I'm not going in to but it has just been rebuilt and ready to collect from the builder.
I did have a power run done on a rolling road before it came out of the car so it will be interesting to see how it compares with the new spec on the
same rolling road.
it is going to be a beautiful sight,.. can't wait to see more pictures
Hi John,
Really impressed with your work on this, it looks a labour of love for sure!
Thanks Chaps, all moving along well now. Please don't be fooled, It's not me doing the preparation or the painting. I've left that to
the expert and all is progressing very well. He is hoping to have the colour on this week so more pictures when that happens.
The newly rebuilt engine is ready for me to pick up so everything is coming together nicely.
Thank you all for your interest.
rgds
John
I,m sure it will look wonderful when done.
Bare aluminium does not weather well so this was expected
NO!!!!!! Why!!!!
Raw alloy body and wires made it look special, now it will look like some blue car.
Its your car and you had good reasons but imo it was better unpainted..... plus youll adda couple of kg in weight.
Re engine, is it on twin SUs, 1 1/2? Is easy to convert to twin 1 3/4,
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
NO!!!!!! Why!!!!
Raw alloy body and wires made it look special, now it will look like some blue car.
Its your car and you had good reasons but imo it was better unpainted..... plus youll adda couple of kg in weight.
Re engine, is it on twin SUs, 1 1/2? Is easy to convert to twin 1 3/4,
quote. "Even the lady in the passport control kiosk at Roscoff leaned out of the hatch to stroke it. That will never happen again because it
will as you say look just like a painted classic car." end quote
Hi John,
Can I just ask a favour?
A route map to Roscoff please. I've never had mine stroked.
O, and another please; if ever you hear me talk of paint please drive up to North Essex and shoot me.
All the best
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote. "Even the lady in the passport control kiosk at Roscoff leaned out of the hatch to stroke it. That will never happen again because it will as you say look just like a painted classic car." end quote
Hi John,
Can I just ask a favour?
A route map to Roscoff please. I've never had mine stroked.
O, and another please; if ever you hear me talk of paint please drive up to North Essex and shoot me.
All the best
Paul G
Front view wit a few bits bolted back on.
[Edited on 7/3/16 by John Bonnett]
Looks great John. Leaving it polished would have been nice but constant work to keepit looking good and there'd always been bit's that annoyed you.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Looks great John. Leaving it polished would have been nice but constant work to keepit looking good and there'd always been bit's that annoyed you.
I may have said that I'm replacing the chrome wire wheels with Minilites in the interest of weight saving and ease of cleaning. Unfortunately the
standard wheel studs are too short for the alloys and so they must be changed. I'm using the opportunity to go over to the much stronger M12
Freelander studs. The fronts are easy enough to change but the back is a bit more fiddly. Either the hub has to come off or make a hole in the back
plate and feed the stud in that way. For the time being I'm ignoring that little problem and getting on with the rebuild. Today saw the engine go
in which was a major step forward. I'm hopeful of having the car running by the end of the weekend.
Just to finish off this thread, I would like to thank each and everyone of you who have helped me with encouragement and advice along the way. It has
been very much appreciated and a great help.
The car is now finished and I have to say that I am absolutely delighted with the result and well worth all the blood sweat and tears lavished on it.
I shall be using it during the Summer after which I will put it up for sale to fund the next project.
Here are a few pictures.
That looks sooooooo good John. You should be very proud.
Selling it!? Must resist, Must resist!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
That looks sooooooo good John. You should be very proud.
Selling it!? Must resist, Must resist!
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
That looks sooooooo good John. You should be very proud.
Selling it!? Must resist, Must resist!
That,s an enormous amount of work to move on John, good luck with the new project when the time comes.
I thought about flogging my locost a couple of years ago to raise funds, I could not bring myself to do it but then the value is low so it was not a
compelling argument.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
That,s an enormous amount of work to move on John, good luck with the new project when the time comes.
I thought about flogging my locost a couple of years ago to raise funds, I could not bring myself to do it but then the value is low so it was not a compelling argument.