what has every one used /stainless ally / what size is best poprivets to use on ally

Im using Stainless rivets but my panels are stainless. (a lot harder to pop so invested in a better rivet gun)

If your using ali panels i would go for ali rivets just so theres less chance of dissimilar metal corrotion.

Correct me if im wrong ? and apologies for spelling !

Oh, and im using 4mm pop rivets as i got em for free :-)

[Edited on 24/1/05 by Andybarbet]

If you can, try to use structural type rivets. they are far batter than standard pop rivets and last a lot longer - they do cost quite a bit more.

try suffolk fastners here : linky

If you are joing steel to steel then i would go for steel rivets. If not then go for ally. If you can get hold of some decent jointing compound to put on each rivet before you set it then all the better.

I have used a combination of 3.2mm and 4.8mm rivets (some dome some countersunk) on my car with a fairly close pitch between rivets (25mm) - 4.8mm for floor and a couple of other panels, most interior panels with 3.2mm.

I have also bonded all panels on with PU adhesive.

Everybody seems to have used 'PU Adhesive'. Is it ok to use Arildite? On a previous car build we rivited and bonded the chassis with Arildite, which come's in two tubes (resin and hardener) which are held together. These two tubes are then put in a trigger type dispenser which mixes the two parts as it dispenses it I.e. No mixing the two parts by hand! Is PU adhesive cheaper than Arildite?

Cheers,
Andy

PU adhesive is flexible. Araldite is far from flexible...some may even say its brittle .

PU adhesive is not cheap, do a search for Sikaflex on google. Think its about £8 for a tube.

David

If it is flexable then surely it isn't as structuraly strong? Is it used to give any more strngth on top the rivets give. I would agree that it Arildite may have less 'give' in it but don't know whether it would be brittle? Is there enough movement between panels and chassis members to break the bond with arildite?

Andy

I'd have used araldite if it wasn't so expensive (more so than PU), don't worry, the araldite will help chassis stiffness.

quote:

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Originally posted by flak monkey
PU adhesive is not cheap, do a search for Sikaflex on google. Think its about £8 for a tube.
David

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Grey stripe is for SEALING panels (as in waterproofing them), but not gluing them on with a really strong bond.

The proper PU adhesive is MUCH stronger than seam sealer. I tested some on a couple of ally sample strips. 1" square contact areas of PU adhesive are almost impossible to pull apart using manual effort and a vice!! More flexible than araldite but not as resistant to peel.

A quick Google gave me this site:

PU-Goo

£3.69 + P&P is as cheap as you'll get. (but there'll always be one smart-arse who can get it cheaper!).

It is amazingly strong - I had to remove my rear panel that I'd fixed with liberal PU application and rivets - I had to tear the ali off with pliers.

One warning - don't open a tube until you need it, as it will start to go off from that time on. It will probably be solid after a week!

David

[Edited on 25/1/05 by David Jenkins]

I used the stuff that dave j has linked to - excellent, bought 3 tubes and reckon they will bond all panels and do all the sealing I need, bargain

Sikaflex can be used on its own to bond panels to chassis - some trucks are held together with this stuff!

I used both rivets and Sikaflex on my car for a couple of reasons - waterproofing and sound deadening. The rivets also make sure that the panels are flush while the goo sets too.

Three tubes did the whole job - and that is double skinned with sound proofing in between.

Tip - To stop it going solid in the tube, try capping the nozzle with a Biro cap - it stays soft for weeks.

[Edited on 25/1/05 by RazMan]

quote:

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Originally posted by RazMan
I used both rivets and Sikaflex on my car for a couple of reasons - waterproofing and sound deadening.

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If PU adhesive is that great, has anyone considered sticking side panels on using just PU and no rivets? I suppose you'd clamp it up with some long bits of wood round the sides while it set. Could give a nicer finish.

There was some talk a while back about someone bonding the floor panels in place.

BTW this is a piccy of the rivets i have been using, sorry it's a bit out of focus.
the yellow stuff in the second piccy is the jointing compound before I cleaned off the excess.....



rivetc closeup


rivets

quote:

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Originally posted by Rorty

Rivets are renowned for their waterproofing and sound deadening properties.

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FWIW,

I've used 'sealed' 4mm rivets, their strong, don't leak and not much more expensive.

P U is used to bond most windscreens into vehicles and its the only fixing! one common example is a M A N TGA truck screen.For a good bond the correct primers must be used.