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Side panel, fiberglass help
the_big_1 - 29/3/20 at 07:08 PM

Hi Guys,

With being on lockdown, trying to think of ways to keep busy etc.
So I am building a Haynes etc and have the fiberglass body kit.
The two sides are not as angled as the frame is, never are.
There isnt enough material to say pop rivet the top and bottom edges.
What options is there to attach the sides and if so, help them fit better so they are not as taught etc?

Cherrs!!


40inches - 29/3/20 at 09:46 PM

Don't know about the fit, but I fixed my panels with just Sikaflex PU adhesive.
That was in 2002, they are still attached


the_big_1 - 29/3/20 at 10:21 PM

Lol I thought the same but didnt know if it was frowned upon lol.
Can I use it and a bit of heat gun to help the bends lol


nick205 - 30/3/20 at 08:55 AM

If I'm understanding your post correctly, this sounds a pretty common build issue.

On my MK Indy I couldn't rivet the top and bottom returns of the GRP side panels to the chassis. I rivetted the top returns and PU adhesived the vertical lower side to the chassis. Stayed in placed just fined for over 3 years before I sold the car on. I remained in contact with the following owner for 3 years and he never had any issues either.

If I'd been overly concerned about it I may have made some Aluminium packing to go between the GRP side panels and the chassis to fill the gap, but it didn't bother me so I didn't.


the_big_1 - 30/3/20 at 08:32 PM

Hi,

How strong in the bond if I fiberglass design some mounting points to assist the sikaflex? Just dont want the panels popping off lol lol


nick205 - 31/3/20 at 10:33 AM

quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
Hi,

How strong in the bond if I fiberglass design some mounting points to assist the sikaflex? Just dont want the panels popping off lol lol



Never had any issue with the panels popping off or even showing signs of coming close to popping off. Sikaflex (or decent PU adhesisve) is pretty strong. If you're worried about the panels popping off then make a couple of Aluminium right angle straps to rivet the lower returns to the chassis.


rusty nuts - 31/3/20 at 12:44 PM

Sikaflex once stuck isn’t likely to fail although I had a carbon fibre wing detach at speed ,, suspect a good wipe over with possibly acetone might help. For holding the panels in place while the Sikaflex sets I would use some ratchet straps.


jps - 31/3/20 at 03:07 PM

quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
There isnt enough material to say pop rivet the top and bottom edges.
Cherrs!!


The side panels i got (equinox) had plenty of return top and bottom so that they go over both the top and the bottom rail. However they are 'slab sided', i.e. they just go down vertically from the top to the bottom, rather than curving in against the chassis rails as an alu panel would. They were also fairly tight - i had to remove all of the bottom return where I have used a 3mm alu sheet for the floor panel.

Pics here incase they are helpful so you can see how mine were cut/fit.


the_big_1 - 31/3/20 at 05:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
There isnt enough material to say pop rivet the top and bottom edges.
Cherrs!!


The side panels i got (equinox) had plenty of return top and bottom so that they go over both the top and the bottom rail. However they are 'slab sided', i.e. they just go down vertically from the top to the bottom, rather than curving in against the chassis rails as an alu panel would. They were also fairly tight - i had to remove all of the bottom return where I have used a 3mm alu sheet for the floor panel.

Pics here incase they are helpful so you can see how mine were cut/fit.


Yeah mine is like that. What did you use to affix yours on? I am thinking a couple of brackets that are glassfibred to the inside face and the sikafex too just to be safe


jps - 31/3/20 at 08:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
Yeah mine is like that. What did you use to affix yours on? I am thinking a couple of brackets that are glassfibred to the inside face and the sikafex too just to be safe


Mine aren’t fixed yet but I will use a few rivets, in behind the wheel arch and probably just two top and bottom towards the front of the engine bay, then PU adhesive against the chassis rails.


Deckman001 - 1/4/20 at 10:27 AM

Hi,

I used 'G' clamps to hold the areas in place while the glue/bond stuff to set. No rivets were needed doing this

new left side ?
new left side ?


Jason

[Edited on 1/4/20 by Deckman001]


jps - 1/4/20 at 11:33 AM

Adding this as it may be useful for future readers of this thread - there are three reasons I will rivet in a few places.
1 - Because I have decided where the side panels will be located - and trimmed them accordingly before they are bonded. So I have put a rivet at the very front on the top rail (front of engine bay, just before the section where the nosecone overlaps) to enable me to re-position them in exactly the same place when I remove them them to apply the PU (i'll drill out the existing rivet then re-use the holes.

2 - Around the rear wheel arch I am finding the panel doesn't sit flat, so rivets will be used to make sure it pulls in properly. Clamping/strapping m,ay well work sufficiently well, but I am being cautious.

3 - I have removed the bottom return on some of the side panel, as it did not fit over the floor I fitted. So I will use at least one or two rivets here to keep things secured. Again - probably excess caution on my side.


the_big_1 - 29/5/20 at 04:18 PM

Hi guys,

What PU adhesive do you think is good. I have seen this and wondering on thoughts???

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/fillers-and-preparation/tigerseal-black-310ml-140198.html


jps - 30/5/20 at 10:18 PM

Plenty of people use Tigerseal - you can get it elsewhere cheaper than Halfords prices. The usual DIY places (Toolstation/etc) have unbranded PU adhesives which are even cheaper I think, and apparently are as good as is necessary.